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Old 07-06-2010, 01:13 PM   #16
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Had to register just to post on this thread and thank you all for contributing to it. I have a similar situation, except my height difference is about 4" between choosing an undermount sink and putting the disposal on the deeper bowl.

Without this thread I might still be trying to fashion a pipe contraption that would reach the in-wall drain. I've "seen the light" now and have called for a more professional opinion to come in and take a look at my situation

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Old 03-25-2016, 01:06 PM   #17
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Re: Lowering kitchen drain pipe - PVC


I'm wondering what ended up being the solution to this one? My photo looks almost identical!
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Old 08-14-2016, 09:06 PM   #18
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Re: Lowering kitchen drain pipe - PVC


Hi,

I am in the exact same boat right now. I had granite countertops installed which came with a 9" sink. My current setup which was a 5 - 6" sink with a garbage disposal was a perfect setup since the past 8 years. Now The sink is too low and even without a disposal my drain pipe is sitting just below the dishwasher inlet under the sink flange.

I was quoted $585 to lower the drain pipe without the patch job on the wall. I find that way too expensive since I can see the T joint and I don't believe its that much work.

do you guys have any advice on what I should do? My current setup just barely works without a garbage disposal but I want to make sure the work is done right the first time.

some reason my images are showing side ways. Not sure how to correct that.

Current Setup:

Lowering kitchen drain pipe - PVC-20160814_184311.jpg

Previous setup:
Lowering kitchen drain pipe - PVC-20160808_204027.jpg
Ken

Last edited by kenju4u; 08-14-2016 at 09:22 PM.
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:08 PM   #19
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Re: Lowering kitchen drain pipe - PVC


If you are really just one inch off, then before you tear up the wall and cabinet, I would look for a different disposer. I remember seeing different brands of disposers with some variations on the vertical position of the outlet. Some are made shallower than others.
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Old 08-15-2016, 06:38 PM   #20
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Re: Lowering kitchen drain pipe - PVC


I've done dozens of those ---what do you want to know----??

Open the cabinet back and drywall---an osculating multi tool is the best for that part.

If the drain goes down from the T--the job is rather routine--if it runs horizontally --
You might be in for a long day.

As an experienced pro, I can get one done in 1 1/2 to 2 hours.
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Old 08-15-2016, 10:48 PM   #21
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Re: Lowering kitchen drain pipe - PVC


@miamicuse - It would not be only 1 inch off if i put in a disposal with the current setup. Its 1 inch high without the garbage disposal as shown in my current setup picture.

@oh'mike - The drain does go down from the T but it looks likes there is a bend at the bottom which is going to the back of the wall. My bathroom is right behind the wall so I am sure that drain connects to the shower drain. Anyways I should still be ok to move the T bend since I am not going to be going that far down.

I am also trying to find out if I can get a shallower sink 5 1/2" instead 9" which would resolve my issues without doing surgery behind the wall.

I am attaching some pictures of what the behind the wall looks like for references.

Pictures are side ways. down is to the right.

Lowering kitchen drain pipe - PVC-20160811_222212.jpg

Lowering kitchen drain pipe - PVC-20160811_222152.jpg

Last edited by kenju4u; 08-15-2016 at 10:53 PM.
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Old 08-18-2016, 08:00 AM   #22
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Re: Lowering kitchen drain pipe - PVC


You are going to have to open up the sheet rock more, wider and lower to lower the drain.

The two copper supply lines that run horizontally is going to be in the way as you install your new fitting. In a PVC installation like that I would prefer to use a repair coupling and solvent weld everything but the copper supply lines would make this a real challenge so my suggestion would be to use two banded Fernco or mission couplings. Like this.


They come in variety of sizes and for different transitions of sizes and materials. You need one at the bottom (2"PL X 2"PL) and one on top (1.5"PL X 1.5"PL).

Your existing installation is a sanitary tee with a 2" bottom for the drain and a 2X1.5 bushing to reduce to a 1.5" vent.

The basic idea is to put together a new assembly, consisting of - from top - a 1.5" fernco coupling, connected to a short piece of pipe, which connects to a 1.5X2 bushing, which is connected to the top of a 2" sanitary tee (street), connected to a second 2" fernco coupling.

Your shopping list:

1.5" PL X 1.5" PL fernco banded coupling
short piece of 1.5" SCH 40 PVC pipe
1.5"X2" PVC bushing
2" street sanitary tee (make sure it's street with the spigot end at the bottom)
2" PL X 2" PL fernco banded coupling
another 1.5"X2" PVC bushing for the 2" branch coming out of the wall
PVC trap adapter with street connection to insert into the branch
PVC primer and cement
torque wrench to 60#

Before you cut anything on the existing I would first assemble the new assembly.

Take the street sanitary tee, solvent weld the piece of bushing to the top, then a short piece of 1.5" pipe. say 6" long into that.

Then take the 1.5" banded coupling, remove the metal band, insert the top end of the 1.5" into that, it can only go in half way and bottom at the stop in the middle. Now that the other end of the rubber sleeve and fold it back inside, like how you would fold back the top of a tube sock...as much as you can to the half way point. Do the same with the 2" sleeve onto the street end of the san tee. This will be your new assembly.

Position your new assembly with the san tee at the correct vertical position. That will give you the exact spots you need to make your cut into your existing PVC line and how much more sheet rock you need to open up for the proper cut.

Once you have made your cut you should have a "gap" in your line the same length as the new assembly. Put the two metal sleeves onto the existing pipe, and get them out of the way (using tape or whatever), insert your new piece into place, unfold the sleeves onto the existing PVC pipes, slide the metal bands over the sleeves and torque to 60#.

I would solvent weld a 2X1.5 bushing into the 2" branch then a street trap adapter.

Alternatively, you might be able to find a PVC 2X1.5X1.5 PVC street sanitary tee at a plumbing supply store and that makes those bushings unnecessary.
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Old 08-21-2016, 04:23 PM   #23
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Re: Lowering kitchen drain pipe - PVC


Quote:
Originally Posted by kenju4u View Post
Hi,

I am in the exact same boat right now. I had granite countertops installed which came with a 9" sink. My current setup which was a 5 - 6" sink with a garbage disposal was a perfect setup since the past 8 years. Now The sink is too low and even without a disposal my drain pipe is sitting just below the dishwasher inlet under the sink flange.

I was quoted $585 to lower the drain pipe without the patch job on the wall. I find that way too expensive since I can see the T joint and I don't believe its that much work.

do you guys have any advice on what I should do? My current setup just barely works without a garbage disposal but I want to make sure the work is done right the first time.

some reason my images are showing side ways. Not sure how to correct that.

Current Setup:

Attachment 299058

Previous setup:
Attachment 299042
Ken
A homeowner called a plumber, which was having some kind of leak in his plumbing. Owner asked the plumber if he could help identify and fix the problem. plumber walked up to a wall and made a small hole found the leak and fixed it, the homeowner was thrilled, and told the plumber to send an invoice.

The bill arrived, for $1,000. Homeowner was shocked it only took you 30 minutes and asked for a breakdown. plumber sent another invoice, indicating a $100.00 charge for making the repair and $900 for knowing where to find it.


What is the value of a plumbing job? performing the actual labor can easily be the smallest part of the process, with the real value lying in correctly diagnosing the problem and coming up with a viable solution to it.

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Last edited by Javiles; 08-21-2016 at 04:33 PM.
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