tpolk

Original problem is that the well pump would pump to 50 psi at the pressure tank and then fade to 25lbs psi. Installed new pressure tank, new pressure guage, new pressure switch and finally a new submersible pump. If you leave the power to the pump off for several hours it will go up to the 50lb cutoff. If you leave the power to the pump on for several hours even without using any water, the pressure slowly works its way down to 30lbs and won't pump back to 50lbs. Continuity in the well line to the pump is good, voltage from the house to the pump is good. If you turn the pump off when it is at 50lbs psi it leaks down quickly as if there's a hole somewhere. But that seems to me to be a seperate problem than the pump not pushing to 50lbs when you turn it on. If it has a leak, I would think it should be a constant that it won't pump to 50, not something that develops as the pump is left on for a few hours. It feels like I have two problems here, the first being the pressure issue, the second being the possible leak. The pressure issue is what has me stumped. The leak I may be able to trouble shoot. If indeed it is two seperate problems. The lack of constant pressure has me at a total loss. When we pulled the original pump the wires appeared to be in good shape and we did not find a hole in the water pipe in the well itself. I have tapped the bottom of my financial "well" so to speak and even if I did have the money to keep throwing at this problem, I wouldn't know where to throw it next. I would appreciate any and all input, advice, humor and even the occasional "hit it with a sledgehammer"'s. It's getting cold, we don't have enough pressure for frequent enough showering, dishwashing, not to mention I can't run the heat until this is resolved. My wife and I would appreciate if anyone can put their finger on whatever it is that I can't seem to put my own finger on. Thanks!
Timothy

hayewe farm

Did you precharge the bladder tank with 28 lbs of air pressure before turning on the pump?
Did you clean the mounting tube for the pressure gage?
Are you sure the switch is set for 30/50 PSI?
And I would say you have a line leak or a defective check valve.

Gary Slusser

You spent money on things you didn't need to and couldn't cause the problems you have.

You have a leak and need to stop assuming things.

Run water until the pump comes on.

Then shut off the water past the pressure tank.

Watch the pressure gauge, if the pressure increases and the pump shuts off. Your leak is on the house side of the pressure tank. If the pressure doesn't rise the leak is on the well side of the tank but, to prove that...

Shut off the power to the pump and shut off the water past the pressure tank to the house. If the pressure falls, the leak is on the well side. Probably under ground from the well to the house.

When the power to the pump is on, and the pressure doesn't rise to shut it off, the pump is running constantly. The leak is probably in dirt that gets water logged (mud) and that seals some of the leak allowing the pressure to rise. It's kind like blood clotting stopping a wound from bleeding if the blood is allowed to clot.

__________________
Gary Slusser
22 years in water treatment and well pumps, 13 years on the 'net helping others to help themselves.

brenda o

thank you so much,. at least now i have some direction to find out if, in fact it is a leak and where.

hailey

http://www.cripumps.com, is best manufacturers of pumps and valves

you may ask your clarifications with them

tpolk

I would first like to say how grateful I am for all the helpful input. Truly some knowledgable folks here reaching out to others. I have done all the things above ground along with new pump in well with no leaks in that pipe. I figure I have a leak between pitless at well and house and intend to run new line above ground taking that loop out of equation. The theory of the mud is ok but I find it hard to believe that mud will congeal around my pipe in the two hours my pump is off which is when I go back to full press and proper cycling. I need to get a tester to check but is it possible one side of my double pole breaker is heating up and failing then cooling back down while pump is off

Gary Slusser

But then wasn't it you that thought it was the gauge, then the switch and then the tank and then pump.... to find out after replacing 'em that you still had the same problem? And now yer askin' 'bout the breaker... 'cuz yer not a believer, yet. lol

Running a new line above ground is not an easy or simple thing to do. And unless you know that's where the leak is, why do that? And you don't know 100% that it is not in the drop pipe going down to the pump.

The only why to troubleshoot that is to pull the drop pipe up a couple feet out of the casing. Take the pitless off and put a pressure gauge and stop valve on the drop pipe and with the valve open about half turn the pump on and then shut the pump power off and close the valve holding as high pressure on the gauge as possible, and watch the gauge for 15 minutes. If the pressure falls ya got a leak in the drop pipe. If the pressure holds, the leak on in the pipe to the pressure tank.

If you have an air compressor, remove the pitless half and rig up the pipe wihat a pressure gauge and to allow you to pressurize the liine with air. Then rig up a U to the pitless half and reinstall it to pressure up the line the house.

And having a pitless means you are probably in a freeze area and it is mid Nov.. So you'll have to bury the line fairly soon. I have worked on my own and customers' wells and pumps for 20 years. Why not do the troubleshooting right instead of doing necessary and time consuming work by digging etc. and running a line on the ground and plumbing it up?

__________________
Gary Slusser
22 years in water treatment and well pumps, 13 years on the 'net helping others to help themselves.

tpolk

again thanks and will do. have been in the building trade since 1970 as carpenter and have been involved deeply in all other trades including wells. this a first for me