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Old 02-27-2010, 09:09 PM   #16
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Low hot water pressure in bath tub


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Originally Posted by dirtrider73068 View Post
Ok well here is something else I just remembered, The last couple times I have turned on the hot water to shower, there comes some thumps and bumps like there is air pockets in the lines? Doesn't make sense cause there shouldn't be a leak and never had a leak and this has been a ongoing problem since i had bought the house.

Also my hot water never had a pop off valve on it, doesn't need something that lets air in the hot water tank to keep from having a vacuum, or does it use the line coming in to pressure the tank?
Incoming cold pressurizes the hot line.

You do need that 'pop off' valve. Temperature and pressure relief.

It keeps your water heater from exploding and going 300 ft in the air through your roof.

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Old 03-03-2010, 11:30 PM   #17
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Low hot water pressure in bath tub


I tried fiddling with it some more tonight and this is what I found out. I took both hot and cold valves out, turned on meter, and the cold side shot to the back of the tub, hot side came out about 6-8 inches and that was it, hardly any pressure. The valve seat was clean, I tried removeing the seat but it wouldn't budge so I left it alone trying to see if I could find any build up behind the valve seat. I did discover that the valve/manifold body is screwed onto the inlet pipes feeding it, so when I can figure out a good way of getting to it and takeing it off to check the pipes I can.

I read that vinegar will soften and dissolve calcium build up, but could take several hours. So I have a idea I wonder if it will help, since my crawl space is a freaking mud pit, is to turn off water, remove shower head, open hot side, using my air compressor set on low pressure back blow to empty some of the line and then pour a bunch of vinegar in and let it set over night and see if it helps.

I also let some of my water drain out the tank into a pan and it had some sand in it and looked pretty dirty, so at least for starters this weekend, I am looking at draining the water tank and see what that does. I think that sand had been in there a long time.
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Old 03-04-2010, 01:53 AM   #18
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Low hot water pressure in bath tub


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Incoming cold pressurizes the hot line.

You do need that 'pop off' valve. Temperature and pressure relief.

It keeps your water heater from exploding and going 300 ft in the air through your roof.

That is flat wrong. That tank that reached 300' didn't have to go though a roof, since it was part of a test conducted in an open field. I don't know of any tanks flying over 150' through roofs.
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:33 AM   #19
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Low hot water pressure in bath tub


You stated the pressure at the sink was good, here is an Idea. shut off hot at the tank, remove aireator at bathroom sink, backflush with either air or water from hot in tub to lav. sink If using compressed air I would start low and work up. You may end up replacing that line anyway, Why is your crawl so muddy? you may have another problem

to access the valve body there should be a panel on the wall behind it or you will need to make one. you don't want to remove any tile unless there is no other option

Last edited by plumberinlaw; 03-04-2010 at 07:38 AM.
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Old 03-04-2010, 09:04 AM   #20
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Low hot water pressure in bath tub


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That is flat wrong. That tank that reached 300' didn't have to go though a roof, since it was part of a test conducted in an open field. I don't know of any tanks flying over 150' through roofs.
It was an obvious exaggeration.
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Old 03-04-2010, 04:58 PM   #21
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You stated the pressure at the sink was good, here is an Idea. shut off hot at the tank, remove aireator at bathroom sink, backflush with either air or water from hot in tub to lav. sink If using compressed air I would start low and work up. You may end up replacing that line anyway, Why is your crawl so muddy? you may have another problem

to access the valve body there should be a panel on the wall behind it or you will need to make one. you don't want to remove any tile unless there is no other option
Well any time it rains real good or wet for a long period of time it will get muddy, I don't know why but it sucks. I don't have any tile just a vinyl tub surround, but its glued onto the sheetrocked wall. But I can come in behind from my kitchen cabinets, but there are problems with undoing some of the lines would need to be accessed from the tub. I hope I don't have to replace that line I am dearly hopeing back flushing it and letting the vinegar soak on it will help it, and buy me some time.
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Old 03-04-2010, 05:25 PM   #22
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Low hot water pressure in bath tub


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It was an obvious exaggeration.
Mine was an example of what passes for my wit or lack of any. Did I tell you about the still Grandpa made from an old water heater?
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Old 03-04-2010, 05:34 PM   #23
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Low hot water pressure in bath tub


dirtrider,
Before you tear into anything from behind, you need to know that there are new large estucheon plates for covering the larger hole from cutting in to get to a tub wall valve from the tub/shower side to replace them. Can be found at most professional plumbing supply houses. (Going in from behind isn't always an option or the best option, and that's why they sell those.)
Now, before you demolish anything, your problem could well just be debris from the water heater itself in the hot side line that floats up and partially blocks that side of the valve when the hot water is turned on. It is probably just a bit too big to blow out past teh seat and the opened valve stem.
Turn the water off, and take the hot water valve completely out. Also unscrew (counter-clockwise) the valve stem seat in the valve body with a seat wrench or large Allen wrench that will fit it to open the water opening to the max (if you have that kind).
Now have someone turn the water on and off to blow it out into the tub/shower. (Hold a towel over the faucet if you think that it's going to blow out into the bathroom.) If you can still see debris blocking the opening, you probably can break it up with a phillips-head screwdriver (that's what I have used in a similar situation).
Good Luck!
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Old 03-04-2010, 05:38 PM   #24
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Low hot water pressure in bath tub


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dirtrider,
Before you tear into anything from behind, you need to know that there are new large estucheon plates for covering the larger hole from cutting in to get to a tub wall valve from the tub/shower side to replace them. Can be found at most professional plumbing supply houses. (Going in from behind isn't always an option or the best option, and that's why they sell those.)
Now, before you demolish anything, your problem could well just be debris from the water heater itself in the hot side line that floats up and partially blocks that side of the valve when the hot water is turned on. It is probably just a bit too big to blow out past teh seat and the opened valve stem.
Turn the water off, and take the hot water valve completely out. Also unscrew (counter-clockwise) the valve stem seat in the valve body with a seat wrench or large Allen wrench that will fit it to open the water opening to the max (if you have that kind).
Now have someone turn the water on and off to blow it out into the tub/shower. (Hold a towel over the faucet if you think that it's going to blow out into the bathroom.) If you can still see debris blocking the opening, you probably can break it up with a phillips-head screwdriver (that's what I have used in a similar situation).
Good Luck!
Mike
Now that sounds better, that way useing that plate, I will check in to that. I tried to take out the valve seat last night have the right tool for it, but it was tight and didn't want to mess it up, but I may turn on the hot side let it heat it up, take it apart and then try again. Still going to back flush and try the vinegar trick to see if it will help.
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:47 PM   #25
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Low hot water pressure in bath tub


Another update, I had to crawl under my muddy house to check another issue have floor in bedroom sagging like its giveing way, well while I was muddy from being under there I checked my water lines, they are all copper, and are 1/2" lines since the elbows and T's say 1/2" in them. Everything looked good no sign of leaks.

I wish I could draw up something to show how its routed to see if maybe that has something to do with it, but will try to explain it. Water comes in the house from main T's at front outdoor spigot, continues to back part of house, T's into HW tank, then cold goes on to bath and kitchen all being close. Coming out of HW tank it goes bath sink first, T's for kitchen and bathtub. Since its only the bath tub hot side thats being the issue, if the line has to be replaced, I can come back about just guessing 6 ft to the T running to the kitchen sink and do replacement. The fun part is going to be getting all the right connections, especially for the valve body. Now if I have to do that I may as well use that plate thing and cut out my tub wall and replace/update my valve body, valves and make that part current.

Now runs a new question, if I replace that line back to that T for the kitchen and find there is no clog or blockage, what is the next step? Or can the copper lines be remove heated desoldered and looked into to see if the lines are blocked, if clear resoldered back together and reinstalled? Just trying to save money or do it very cheaply, I do have some other line to use for replacement, have a hot/cold lines going to the garage for when a washer machine was used, but I don't want to do that cause I eventually want a wash sink in in the garage.
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Old 03-13-2010, 01:15 PM   #26
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Low hot water pressure in bath tub


Update again, I got to messing with it again trying to get vinegar into the line. I discovered something behind the valve seat, after really haveing to put force on removeing the valve seat, I found it was a part of a old valve where the rubber washer goes, how it got behind the valve seat is beyond me. I also tried to put a wire hanger down the line to see if maybe I could break up any calcium build up but could get the wire to go anywhere unless I was catching on something, cold side the wire goes right in. I wonder if there is a screen on the hot side where the line screws into the valve body? Though I do have some better pressure and flow on the hot side but would like it to match the cold side.
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Old 03-13-2010, 01:50 PM   #27
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I know that you wrote that under the house the lines are copper, but are they copper ALL the way to the valve? I've seen many houses where they had the galvanized pipe replaced except for the last two feet from the floor to the valve. The hot had so much build up in the remaining galv pipe that almost no water was coming through.
I do agree that you best bet is to upgrade your valve to a single handle/cartridge and the Remodelers escutcheon.
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Old 03-13-2010, 02:20 PM   #28
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I am pretty sure its copper all the way up to the valve body from what I see inside the wall, but really don't know untill I cut it out and look at. I would think it wasn't copper it would be more built up and blocked than what it is. I also forgot to mention I drained or flushed some of the hot water tank, and it wasn't that bad, I left the water on, and opened the valve and put the end of the hose in a pot to catch what ever came out and let it run about 10 min, a very little sand and small particles of calcium came out.

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