I have a Model BFG1A4034T3NOV hot water heater I purchased 3yrs ago from Lowes. It developed a leak right above where the controls are. The leak started slowly a few days ago and last night it was very fast. I shut off the gas, and water and then drained the tank so as not to continue to flood my basement. I opened the control panel (see pics) as I thought that is where the leak was coming from since it was running down the wires to where the flame comes out. I couldn't align the control panel cover properly to get it back on. Does anyone know if this can be fixed by a guy who is not very handy (me)? How do I fix the leak?
Just a suggestion, I would start by calling the manufacturer on the hwh, at only 3 years old, it's probably still under warantee. Or call Lowes and ask them, you should still be in their data base. Could possibly save you some money. If the tank itself is leaking/cracked, etc., there is no fixing it, it must be replaced.
Are you sure leak is coming from the control area and not dripping down from above somewhere? Please post another pic of the top of hwh. Thanks.
I'm at work and can't take more pics until tonight. I assumed that the heater was dripping from the controls.... perhaps leaking somewhere within the lining. I'll call Lowes. Any other suggestions are appreciated.
Yes they started using these gas valves from Honeywell a few years ago... The old ones used to have iron pipe threads that would thread into the water heater now its plastic. So if you put this in and wrenched in the gas without holding back on it you might have cracked those threads going into the water heater.
I never took off the control. I took the case off the top, but that's it. IT is a honeywell control, I just haven't lined up the taps the right way to pop it back on. I see the threaded thingy onto tank but I did not mess with it.
If it's leaking from the hwh threads, you can remove gas control valve and reinstall it using tape and pipe dope on threads, use both. Do not overtighten.
However, if the plastic threaded part from the honeywell gas control valve that threads into the hwh is cracked, as Ben has pointed out, you may have to replace the entire gas control valve, as most are a sealed unit that screw right into the hwh. Again, this may be covered under your warantee, so check first and save money. Can you confirm exactly where the leak is for us? Thanks.
I out water into the tank. The water appears to be coming from the control panel. I guess the probe... I can't see where else it would be coming from. Water drips out from under the the control panel.
Thanks for the pics. Diffinately has a drip leg, I don't see a union in the pics, probably up further. When you find the union, that's where you can take the gas pipe apart so you can replace control valve.
How did you make out with the warantee? Everything covered?
If not covered, will this be a diy project or you hiring a pro? Thanks.
The tank is still under warranty until January. The control and other parts are no longer under warranty. They said I would have to pay $158.00 for the control.
So I have to find a union? Also, the control looks like it's molded to the tank via a threaded "pipe" for lack of a better term.
I'm starting to feel overwhelmed as I do not know 100% that the control is leaking. Wife wants me to call a plumber.
I agree with your wife saveme. IMO, I would hire a pro. Gas is nothing to fool around with if your not comfortable. Plus your not 100 percent sure where the leak is.
Keep us informed and let us know how everything works out for you. Thanks.
I agree with the wife saveme. IMO, I would hire a pro. Gas is nothing to fool around with if your not comfortable. Plus your not 100 percent sure where the leak is.
I'm ok with gas... I guess. I use a propane turkey fryer and haven't lit myself on fire. I wish I knew exactly 100% if switching the control panel would work... that and if I knew how to take it off from the "quick disconnect" etc.
If you click on that link I sent you, there is a picture of a union by the drip leg. That's what you need to find, loosen it with a big wrench or slip joint pliers to take the pipe apart. Scroll down the page, look on left hand corner and you will see what I'm talking about. Has a couple of pictures of a union.
Yours may be in a different place, but I'll bet there's a union there somewhere after the gas shut off.
If you click on that link I sent you, there is a picture of a union by the drip leg. That's what you need to find to take the pipe apart. Scroll down the page, look on left hand corner and you will see what I'm talking about. Has a couple of pictures of a union.
Yours may be in a different place, but I'll bet there's a union there somewhere after the gas shut off.
So would I disconnect at the union, add a another pipe with drip leg and add a yellow pipe T?
Also, I see no where for the water to come out of the boiler. I see the leak from the control and going down the lines to the burner. IF its the tank, it's still under warranty if not, its the panel and I have to buy a new one from manufacturer.
No. You can use all your same plumbing. Your just going to swap out control valve if it's leaking. If the tank is leaking, your good to go, it's on them.
Ok. I guess if the tank is leaking, I'll have to swap it out. What is the likely hood the leak is just at the control? I see it dripping fast at the controls but no where else.
Ok. Here is how things worked out for me and my leaky boiler. I called the company and got a replacement boiler as the one I had was still under warranty. A plumber gave me an outlandish quote to swap the boilers. I broke the union, cut the copper pipes and hauled it back to Lowes where I picked up the new one. I got some pipe dope, shark bites and went back and replaced the boiler myself. All the pieces went back in as before, however, I did a stupid thing. I pulled on the black iron pipe to get the union to join with the black iron I had connected to the boiler. There was about a two inch gap to make up. I loosed the strap and pulled the iron down and jointed the pipes. I put soapy water on bends and joints and no leak. Friend said I should have just gotten more iron to make up the 2-3 inches. So far so good. No leaks that I can detect, no gas smell and new boiler is making hot water nicely.
Thanks for all of your help and comments as I am NOT a DIYer. Based on your input and a few you tube videos I was able to tackle this project myself. Thanks again.
Your welcome saveme. Glad everything worked out for you in the end. Your experience may help someone else. Thanks for sharing the end result with the forum. Make sure your gas line does not have too much stress on it. :thumbsup:
" I loosed the strap and pulled the iron down and jointed the pipes. I put soapy water on bends and joints and no leak. Friend said I should have just gotten more iron to make up the 2-3 inches. So far so good. No leaks that I can detect, no gas smell and new boiler is making hot water nicely. "
Did you ever make up the 2-3 inches with new pipe or is it still under stress and at increased risk for breaking?
Saveme, Bob brings up a very good safety point. Make sure you do not have too much stress on the gas pipe. If there is a lot of stress on it, get that extra piece of pipe installed. They sell 2 or 3 inch threaded gas pipe at any big box or plumbing supply store. Thanks and have a safe Holiday Season.
Your original quote was it was leaking. That is where you should have called Lowes and tell them it was leaking. Your new tank would have been in your drive.
I will go and get the extra pipe piece to release the stress. Not sure how much stess its under. When loosened the union thecblack pipe sprang up. I gotvexact same boiler and there was the gap. I suspect it was always under stress. ..Working do well I hate to mess 2ith it but better safe than sorry.
I'll grt the spare piece and do it next weekend when I have the time. Should be ok till then right?
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