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Old 01-11-2013, 06:50 PM   #1
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I'm stuck on the first step - getting the handles off. I popped the plastic caps, took the screws out, turned the handles to the open position - they didn't come off. i tried the handle puller tool, but the l brackets slip over the back of the handle. I tried using a c clamp to keep the brackets in place, but that idea didn't work out either. I had one of the three handles off a few months ago, but now it's stuck on as well as the others. Here's what the handle looks like. You can see why the puller doesn't work. It doesn't have enough to grab on to -

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Old 01-11-2013, 07:39 PM   #2
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Is this fixture and stall really as cruddy as it looks in the pictures?

Stop up the drain.

Get a helper. Tape a block of 2 x 4 on each side of the knob. Using the hook end of two wonder-bars, put even pressure on two sides of the cup (Back end) of the handle while your helper lightly taps the handle with a BP hammer. Hopefully it will walk off. When you reassemble, put waterproof grease on the spline after cleaning it and the inside of the handle thoroughly with a SS wire brush. Maybe boil the handle in vinegar water. Good Luck to you!

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Old 01-11-2013, 07:58 PM   #3
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LOL the camera makes it look worse than it is. Is there a way that doesn't involve prying from behind? I think the wonder bars will slip off like the puller tool did.
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:17 PM   #4
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work some penetrating oil (PB Blaster) until the splines by spraying into the screw hole and working some in from behind with the straw----
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Old 01-11-2013, 08:45 PM   #5
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Hi Mike, PB Blaster reduces rust, does it work on soap scum and white rust too?

To Poster. You could get a piece of 1 x 4 oak and cut a slot in its center the size of the barrel behind the handle. Put a bearing board to the left, and pull on the right.

DO what mike said first if PB works on whats in there. I did not know it did, but I use it on rust religiously!
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Old 01-11-2013, 09:08 PM   #6
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When trying to remove it are you removing the screw and trying to puch againt the shaft?
Instead just back the screw off a few turns, the phillips will help center the point.
http://www.a1toolman.co.uk/ekmps/sho...era-1092-p.jpg
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Old 01-11-2013, 11:39 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
work some penetrating oil (PB Blaster) until the splines by spraying into the screw hole and working some in from behind with the straw----
I've got Knock 'er' Loose and WD-40, will either of those do? jagans - I have oak boards but that will be a precise cut - a 1/16 or maybe a 1/32 off and it will slip over the handle. joecaption - That's a nice looking tool. Mine doesn't have the built-in clamp part on the "hooks." If it did we wouldn't be having this conversation
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Old 01-12-2013, 07:31 AM   #8
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Anything you can get into the splines will help---use what you own---
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Old 01-12-2013, 08:14 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyRay View Post
I've got Knock 'er' Loose and WD-40, will either of those do? jagans - I have oak boards but that will be a precise cut - a 1/16 or maybe a 1/32 off and it will slip over the handle. joecaption - That's a nice looking tool. Mine doesn't have the built-in clamp part on the "hooks." If it did we wouldn't be having this conversation
Knocker loose or the WD-40 should help. Take the screw out and soak the hole really good, it will seep in to the splines-- let it sit over night. I've got some just like that. You might even have to add some heat, and soak it again. When you do get them off, put a generous dose of plumbers grease on the splines and in the screw hole before re-installing them and you won't have any trouble getting them off next time.

Last edited by Lightfoot; 01-12-2013 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:30 PM   #10
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Can chrome be heated?

I soaked it with the WD-40. The Knock 'er Loose was missing its straw and it apparently takes a smaller straw than the WD-40. Gimme a break . . .
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Old 01-12-2013, 05:47 PM   #11
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Can chrome be heated?
I heated some of mine, i had to. If it ruins the finish, i believe a new set at Lowe's is about 12 bucks. Put a glove on and work the handle with an up and down twist on the spline while it's hot to break it loose. You may need a new set anyway if the spline parts are shot. Be careful with the heat if that is fiberglass behind it, all mine are tile. Also remember that WD and Knocker loose are somewhat flammable too.
(i operate a motel and have 26 sets of what looks like the exact same handle, so i've had to try just about everything, but the plumbers grease on the spline before you put them back will prevent this from happening again).

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Old 01-12-2013, 08:28 PM   #12
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It is indeed fiberglass. Unfortunately for me the shut off valves to the shower are seized open, so I guess I will have to replace those to get the penetrating oil to work. Hey, it's only money.
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Old 01-13-2013, 12:50 AM   #13
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Got the center handle off! You mean to tell me a little 3/8" long spline has been giving me all this trouble?!

I looked down the barrel and saw what looks like a little nut over a bigger nut. Does it matter which one I turn?
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Old 01-13-2013, 01:01 AM   #14
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Small nut is just for the shaft packing, the bigger one will need to be removed to remove the stem. Going to need one of these to remove it.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...542F&first=194
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Old 01-13-2013, 08:32 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeremyRay View Post
Got the center handle off! You mean to tell me a little 3/8" long spline has been giving me all this trouble?!

I looked down the barrel and saw what looks like a little nut over a bigger nut. Does it matter which one I turn?
Joecaption is correct (as usual).
if yours are like mine, this is similar to what you are looking at

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?...llow&cId=PDIO1

It may not be exactly this one, but it is probably similar. When you get it out, take it with you and match it up at a plumbing place or box store. There is one for cold and one for hot (hot turns ON to the left, cold to the right).

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Last edited by Lightfoot; 01-13-2013 at 08:44 AM.
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