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Old 12-17-2011, 10:16 AM   #1
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Leak under kitchen sink


Hello..
Hoping for some advice for how I should repair this
I have 2 leaks as shown:
One on the 1.5"(?) PVC where it meets the tee.. I assume here I just remove the old one and put a new piece in with some special glue?

The second seems trickier:

On the copper(?) pipe that runs to the faucet, there seems to be tee with a pipe leading to nowhere that has been cut off, squeezed shut, and sealed with some kind of gunk. It is springing a pinhole stream whenever I turn the faucet on. Without calling a professional, any advice on how I can reseal this, if only for a while? Would the proper fix involve getting rid of the tee, welding new pipe in?
Thanks all.. apologies if it looks a little unpleasant under there

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Old 12-17-2011, 12:41 PM   #2
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Leak under kitchen sink


The "PVC" looks more like ABS to me. Yes, cut out and replace with new.
Copper: I'd cut below that Tee and replace with a transition fitting to mate to a new sink supply tube (get rid of the gray poly pipe feeding faucet).

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Old 12-17-2011, 01:06 PM   #3
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Leak under kitchen sink


What you have there is fairly challenging for a novice I would think. I also think in this case calling a real plumber would be the prudent thing to do. That entire mess should be reworked getting rid of the pinched copper rigging at the same time.

Do you have any experience sweating copper fittings?

I agree...the plastic piping is ABS.
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:19 PM   #4
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somewhat of a challenge for the diy....if you want to try will help as be we can....1st abs pipe...copper needs to be cut an shut offs installed...compression would help you..hot and cold lines both....plastic needs reworked.....with future service in mind...
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:35 PM   #5
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Leak under kitchen sink


Thanks for the replies.. I may call plumber eventually for the copper work - I had to look up "sweating" and i think it may be a little beyond me. It's such a small amount coming out of that if only I could somehow seal it up again for a bit - i don't necessarily want it done right, I just want it done. As far as the ABS, it's leaking right where it connects to the tee. Should I replace both pieces? Will I be able to grab it and just sort of twist it apart or will I have to cut it? Guess I'll have to read up on properly connecting Abs parts too..
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Old 12-17-2011, 04:46 PM   #6
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Ah darn it
any rough estimate on the cost to have someone cut out tee, sweat new fitting that connects to the faucet? Why should I get rid of the grey poly?
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:42 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by ben's plumbing View Post
somewhat of a challenge for the diy....if you want to try will help as be we can....1st abs pipe...copper needs to be cut an shut offs installed...compression would help you..hot and cold lines both....plastic needs reworked.....with future service in mind...
The copper leak is worse than I thought.. I put a plastic bag over it and got about a cup of water in less than an hour. I don't even think the ABS is leaking now I think it was just getting sprayed by the other leak.
By compression do you mean a compression fitting? could i just cut below the tee as suggested and put a transition fitting on with a hose going to the grey poly?
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:03 PM   #8
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That pinched copper stub needs to be removed completely. That technique never works and never lasts.
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:22 PM   #9
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Could I cut above and below the tee and remove that whole fitting, and join the 2 ends with a new piece of copper? Or do you mean the technique with the compression joiners always fails? Excuse my ignorance..
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:29 PM   #10
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Could I cut above and below the tee and remove that whole fitting, and join the 2 ends with a new piece of copper? Or do you mean the technique with the compression joiners always fails? Excuse my ignorance..
cut as close to bottom of tee as you can..put on compression valve...no sweating...5/8 od x3/8od straight valve... then hook up supply tube from faucet to top of new valve...done..
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:37 PM   #11
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Quote:
Or do you mean the technique with the compression joiners always fails?
The crimped copper is a never good idea.


Quote:
cut as close to bottom of tee as you can..put on compression valve...no sweating...5/8 od x3/8od straight valve... then hook up supply tube from faucet to top of new valve...done..
That's your best bet. Use a longer flexible supply line and trash everything above the new compression fitting.

After cutting below the tee and as close to the tee as you can get, then be sure to clean/sand the pipe all around before installing the compression fitting.

Last edited by Bud Cline; 12-17-2011 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:41 AM   #12
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Nice.. thanks for the info..
Would something like this work?
http://www.homehardware.ca/en/rec/in...F8+compression

it doesnt exactly say 5/8 od x3/8 od but i think thats what i need and real plumbing supply places aren't open sundays around here..,.
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:54 PM   #13
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Leak under kitchen sink


so i got a cutter, a sharkbite 1/2" x 3/8" compression fitting:

and a 1 ft flexible supply hose:


I'm ready to make the cut below the tee, but that area seems like pipe diameter is not uniform - it gets sort of smoothly thicker & thinner - (I guess that's where it was sweated originally? not sure.. it is close to 1/2")

Does the Sharkbite need exactly 1/2" to seal? Should I get a gauge thing (sorry) to measure exactly where the pipe is 1/2"?

Last edited by Mark77; 12-18-2011 at 12:56 PM.
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Old 12-20-2011, 09:29 PM   #14
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Thanks everyone
everything worked out. Cut pipe below tee, put on sharkbite, installed new hose.
Ended up getting a 24" metal hose and getting rid of the poly as suggested.

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