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terrapin88 · 11-19-2009, 12:33 AM

I noticed that whenever the toilet's flushed, a pretty bad leak develops into the basement. I dried off the pipe, installed a new wax seal on the bowl and flushed - still bad. Dried it off again, stood under the pipe, son flushed it, and the leak comes from what appears to be a 2-3 inch "crack" in the piping. If it was coming from a bad seal, it would originate from where the bowl meets the floor---right? I see the crack leak - so I am pretty sure this is what it is - a crack!

It's a fairly large pipe that I believe it cast iron - certainly not PVC, copper.

I have heard JB weld may be perfect for this type of repair. I imagine that calling in a pro would cost a ton and I am looking for the best long term DIY solution.

Thanks

Bondo · 11-19-2009, 06:29 AM

Quote:

and I am looking for the best long term DIY solution.

Ayuh,... It's cast iron,+ it's Rotten....

Replacement with PVC is the proper Long term fix...

JDC · 11-19-2009, 06:30 AM

Short term: give the jb weld a try.

Long term: that section needs to be replaced. Cast iron rusts from the inside out. Plug up that "crack" and it most likely will start leaking elsewhere at some point. Cant say when it will happen....could be a few weeks, couple of months or maybe even a year or two later. Or...you might get lucky and the thing will outlast both you and I. It really should be replaced at some point but the jb weld might be just what you need to buy some time.

terrapin88 · 11-19-2009, 11:37 AM

I figured the JB would be short term - the section of pipe that;s rotten is actually a piece that looks like it could be"unscrewed", not cut or anything. how would I even begin replacing that section with PVC?

majakdragon · 11-19-2009, 12:45 PM

I have not encountered threaded cast iron. This could be galvanized steel pipe. patching either product will be short term. Cast iron cracks will "run" and get worse. There are couplings made to transfer from cast iron and steel pipe to PVC pipe. Most Home Centers carry them. I like No-hub brand and Fernco.

terrapin88 · 11-19-2009, 12:55 PM

galvanized steel - the crack is on the elbow and there are definitely 2 threaded sections I can ee - one to the floor above and the other to the drain pipe going vertically to the basement floor. is JB Weld th best thing I could try or is there something better? also, how would I even begin removing that section?

LeakyMike · 11-19-2009, 01:32 PM

One thing you should do before putting JB on the crack is to drill small (1/8 max) crack "stopper" holes at the end of the crack. This relieves the stress that is present there. I do agree the JB is likely a short term fix, but if it is easy to get at this spot, you can keep an eye on it. The corrosion of the pipe will continue and you should be looking into a PVC replacement.

130 plumber · 11-19-2009, 05:59 PM

Better yet can you post some pictures on whats going on

130 plumber · 11-19-2009, 06:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by majakdragon

I have not encountered threaded cast iron. This could be galvanized steel pipe. patching either product will be short term. Cast iron cracks will "run" and get worse. There are couplings made to transfer from cast iron and steel pipe to PVC pipe. Most Home Centers carry them. I like No-hub brand and Fernco.

more than likley what he was trying to say is that the cast iron pipe tee was a tap tee fitting which allows you to lead in both hub and spigot then tread in a nipple from the side of the tee

terrapin88 · 11-19-2009, 06:45 PM

well i just did the repairs - i was up till 3 last night just cutting away at wood that was concealing the whole pipe - amazing. anyway, i sanded the pipe - used acetone to clean it and prep it, did the jb weld. i bought some pipe wrap - how long should i wait before applying the wrap over the jb weld? and yes, i drilled 2 holes at either end of the crack.