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josephmartins 08-02-2012 10:52 AM

laundry tub in basement laundry room
 
2 Attachment(s)
Good evening all,

Figures 1 and 2 are photos taken while facing the area behind where the washer and dryer will be installed in a basement laundry room. The washer drain goes straight down to a trap and then bends 90 degrees to the left where it enters the main stack a couple feet above the slab.

Does that washer drain need to be vented separately or does the close proximity of the stack serve as its vent?

What is the best approach to plumb a laundry tub if it is positioned to the left of the washer (directly in front of the stack in Figure 1)? We figured either a) remove the washer drain and plumb the sink directly to the stack using 2" pipe with its own trap and then drain the washer into the sink, or b) tie the sink into the existing setup with a T just above the trap and let the sink and washer share the existing trap. But we're open to whatever method might work best.

One of the concerns is that the sink's drain pipe would approach the stack from a poor angle (it would have to bend nearly 180 degrees to enter the stack. The sink could be positioned to the right of the washer to avoid sharp bends in the drain pipe but the left side is preferred.

The sink will be used rarely though sometimes at the same time as the washer.

Any advice would be appreciated.

paintdrying 08-02-2012 10:45 PM

I am not a plumber so maybe wait until a senoir member chimes in. The 90 in the water line near the 220 makes me real nervous. Do not use galvanized strap on a copper pipe. This is not the by the book way to do the set up but it will work. I forget all the codes, sorry. I would pull that bottom clean out from the stack and dump the sink and washer into that. Your sink drain needs to set 18 inches from the floor, your washer p trap needs to be 4 inches from the floor. Go buy yourself a washer box, you need an air gap between the discharge hose of the washer and the top of the washer box. I would not bother to vent it. or install an air ammitance valve. Hope this makes some sense, it has been 20 years since I did plumbing, things change and I have forgotten a lot.

jaydevries 08-02-2012 11:13 PM

first how high is that drain off of floor that you want to use for sink

josephmartins 08-02-2012 11:32 PM

The photos are a bit deceiving. That 90 degree elbow is on a line mounted against the wall. The 220 box which is currently hanging freely will be mounted on a stud 12" in front of, and to the left of that line so we should be okay there.

Thank you for the advice about the drains. I really appreciate the insight.

josephmartins 08-02-2012 11:33 PM

The washer drain enters the stack a little over two feet from the slab.

The laundry tub is wall mounted so I have some flexibility in setting the drain height.

TheEplumber 08-02-2012 11:54 PM

I would abandon the washer piping. It's too high- minmum is 6" off the floor and needs to be 2" pipe.
Your stack is pretty crowded too. Shoot to get the laundry sink in low (12" aff) and dump the washer into it
How to get the sink in will be the challenge. If it was my project, I'd cut out the CO, wye, and tapped tee. Then rebuild it to fit my needs. But this may be out of your comfort zone?
As for venting, the stack will do, but prolly not code.

jaydevries 08-03-2012 12:01 AM

could just turn wash machine line into wash tub drain and then drain wash machine into wash tub

ben's plumbing 08-03-2012 05:54 PM

if that was mine ...I would repipe it all.....:yes:

josephmartins 08-03-2012 06:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ben's plumbing (Post 980765)
if that was mine ...I would repipe it all.....:yes:

Do you mean the whole stack visible in that photo Ben? That's a heck of a lot of work and additional expense to just add a sink, no? I'd prefer not to touch the iron at all. Though that leaves me with very few options.

jaydevries 08-03-2012 06:32 PM

:jester:ben just likes to redo cast due to scrap prices:laughing:
something else that i see is the copper pipe looks like it is not protected from concrete which has a good chance of eventually corroding of and leaking.
:jester:so as ben says to get rid of cast i say get rid of the copper even higher scrap prices :thumbup:

ben's plumbing 08-03-2012 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jaydevries (Post 980798)
:jester:ben just likes to redo cast due to scrap prices:laughing:
something else that i see is the copper pipe looks like it is not protected from concrete which has a good chance of eventually corroding of and leaking.
:jester:so as ben says to get rid of cast i say get rid of the copper even higher scrap prices :thumbup:

ben likes to redue old piping that is ready to be replaced:yes: but do have to admitt those scrap prices are looking good......but i see you start talking about copper:):laughing:

ben's plumbing 08-03-2012 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by josephmartins (Post 980775)
Do you mean the whole stack visible in that photo Ben? That's a heck of a lot of work and additional expense to just add a sink, no? I'd prefer not to touch the iron at all. Though that leaves me with very few options.

not really just seems that way to you..cutting out the old cast will as you said give you more options ...better job as well...but you do what you have to..it is what it is....:yes:


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