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Old 09-10-2010, 04:57 PM   #1
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


I know it shouldn't be like this but it is and now I have to deal with it. My GC wasn't paying attention and positioned the hot supply rough-in directly above the drain stack in the floor.

I am going to be installing a Franke ORX-110 single bowl sink which positions the drain toward the rear and left side of the sink. I will be installing a disposal too.

I'm very concerned that the disposal is going to interfere with the drain which is going to interfere with the hot supply. The counter top has not yet been installed. IF I HAD TO I could make lager cut outs around the supply lines and remove the sink base and attempt to move the hot rough-in further to the right. But I don't want to do this if it can be avoided (we'd need to lift the sink base several inches to clear the drain stack but as it is, the supply lines would prevent lifting the base without substantially enlarging the openings in the back of the cabinet around the supply lines).

The stack that's in the photos is what was removed from the previous installation. I don't think a similar setup (as things are right now) would work because even if the clean-out fit underneath the hot supply, I'm afraid it would be so tight that there wouldn't be adequate room to remove the clean-out cap. I also don't see how I'd have room to get that clean-out tee down into the drain stack coupling with the hot supply positioned as it is.

I know something needs to change. Looking for recommendations on a satisfactory solution with the least amount of carnage.

Thanks.

Tipsy











Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 09-11-2010 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 09-10-2010, 05:35 PM   #2
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


First, you need that drain line vented. It needs to vent thru the roof, but you can studor vent it if you absolutely must. Second, CPVC is almost the worst thing you can use for water lines, but it's probably too late for that now too . I would offset the drain with 2 45's to bring it up to the left or right and give you room for an angle stop

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Old 09-10-2010, 05:37 PM   #3
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


also, is the drain line 3" or the trap arm 1 1/4'? the branch on the tee looks waaay too small
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Old 09-10-2010, 07:25 PM   #4
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


You mentioned a GC---Where is the plumber?---

If you did this yourself but are to embarrassed to admit it--that's O.K.

This is a DIY place
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Old 09-11-2010, 12:05 AM   #5
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


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Originally Posted by the_man View Post
First, you need that drain line vented. It needs to vent thru the roof, but you can studor vent it if you absolutely must.
I recently bought this house and tore out the old kitchen. While there are two plumbing vents in the attic exiting through the roof, there is/was no vent at this location. I don't know what a studor vent is???

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Originally Posted by the_man View Post
Second, CPVC is almost the worst thing you can use for water lines, but it's probably too late for that now too .
The house was originally plumbed with copper in the slab but there was a slab leak at some point (previous owners) so the entire house was re-plumbed with CPVC coming down from the attic.


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I would offset the drain with 2 45's to bring it up to the left or right and give you room for an angle stop
I was thinking I'd try to use some kind of 45 offset but I'm really not certain how to accomplish this. Any chance you can point me toward the proper fittings/components?

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Originally Posted by the_man View Post
also, is the drain line 3" or the trap arm 1 1/4'? the branch on the tee looks waaay too small
The trap that's pictured is what we removed from the old kitchen. I've just included it for illustrative purposes. The stack in the floor is 3" PVC. The old tee is 3" to 1 1/2".


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Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
You mentioned a GC---Where is the plumber?---

If you did this yourself but are to embarrassed to admit it--that's O.K.

This is a DIY place
I have someone working with me...obviously not a licensed plumber...but I travel for a living and I was not present while this was done. I honestly didn't notice it until after the base cabinet was installed. The coupling on the 3" drain stack was installed after the base cabinet was in place which will make removing the sink base very difficult at this point without hacking it up.

If there is a satisfactory way to form an acceptable 45 degree offset for the drain, that's what I'd prefer to do. I'm assuming I should retain a provision for a clean-out?

Thanks very much.

Tipsy

Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 09-11-2010 at 09:54 AM.
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Old 09-11-2010, 08:19 AM   #6
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


http://www.studor.net/ thats a studor vent. What I would do with that abortion is reduce the 3 to 2 at the bottom of the cabinet, glue on a 3x2 reducing coupling. Get 2 2" street 45's and glue them into the reducer offsetting it to the left (that seems to be where the room is for it) then install a 2x1.5 san tee for the trap arm, and continue the pipe to the very top of the cabinet space and install the AAV there. the AAV can unscrew so it'll retain it's cleanout abilities, or you can cable thru the trap arm to clear any blockages. you might need a few misc. fittings to line up to the sink, but I would be more concerned with getting the drain line out of the way first.
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Old 09-11-2010, 09:54 AM   #7
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


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http://www.studor.net/ thats a studor vent. What I would do with that abortion is...
Thanks for the advice. It's very helpful.

The 3" PVC drain stack that's in the slab is original to the construction of the house. Other than the ill-positioned hot-supply line, what exactly would qualify this as an "abortion?"

You should have seen the previous installation. At least the CPVC is now in the wall. It used to run through the cabinet.

Tipsy



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Old 09-11-2010, 10:44 AM   #8
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


I've been giving this a lot of thought. I really don't want to have to remove the sink base if I don't have to. It sounds like offsetting the drain stack with street-45's will be an acceptable solution but I just realized I can access the plumbing from the backside of the wall. It's just a knee wall and is open to the living room on the back side.

I might be able to move the hot supply over to the right working from the back. It won't be easy because there is 2 x 4 blocking in the way (that the CPVC is secured to) but it might be a lot less hacking than trying to remove the sink base at this point.

Tipsy
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Old 09-12-2010, 11:12 AM   #9
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


you'll be fine with offsetting the drain. Reducing it to 2" will give you more room, and you can install the san tee for the trap arm at an angle to get it closer to the basket strainer on the sink. As to why it's an abortion, there is almost nothing about that that's close to code. If I had paid a contractor to do the work, I'd either drag his ass back to fix it, or bring in a different contractor and send the original one the bill, with lots of pics and code violations noted. If you actually did the work, it's live and learn Don't expect to get everything right all the time, we'll help ya out
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Old 09-12-2010, 11:33 AM   #10
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


There is already a coupling glued onto the 3" stack. It extends below the sink base so I can't cut it out. My understanding is that a 3" to 2" reducer would slip over the 3" stack, which I can't do because of the existing coupling. Do they make a "street" reducer that slips into the 3" coupling?

Or will I need to cut a section of 3" just long enough to insert into the existing coupling that will allow for the 3" to 2" reducer to be glued into place?

Or should I use two 3" street 45's and then reduce to 2" from there?

Tipsy

Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 09-12-2010 at 11:37 AM.
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Old 09-12-2010, 11:46 AM   #11
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


glue a 3x2 bushing into the coupling, then extend 2" from there
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Old 09-12-2010, 12:19 PM   #12
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Kitchen Rough-In Problems


Quote:
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glue a 3x2 bushing into the coupling, then extend 2" from there
Okay..thanks. I Googled "bushing" and I see this is a 3" to 2" reducer that will slip into the existing coupling.

So if I install a bushing and then offset to the left with two 2" street 45's, I'll then go vertical to a 2" x 1 1/2" reducing Tee. I can extend off the top of the Tee for the Studor vent (assuming I have enough room) but I still don't have a provision for a clean-out???

In searching the web, I don't see a clean-out in many of these installations. Should I use a 2" x 1 1/2" reducing Wye instead of a Tee so I can have a clean-out cap on one side and the P-trap on the other?

Tipsy


Last edited by TipsyMcStagger; 09-12-2010 at 12:30 PM.
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