Kholer Tub install - overspill drain connection?

wraiththe

HI,
I recently paid a plumber @450 to install a kholer archer tub (60"x32") in an alcove. he had to move the old drain from 13 to 16" from the back wall and out about 9" from the right wall. There is a cutout from the substrate that was "plugged with gypsum board under the pipe (I am guessing to seal the plenum and drafts, attatched from underneath.) When all was done I had noticed this hole was now completly uncovered. A few things concerned me which varied from the instructions. Please note I did install two 1x6 boards across the joists where the feet of the tub would be so they would not go through the substrate. This was similar to the original tub install.
1) the feet were not attatched with adhesive which was suggested in the manual if no mortar/thinset was used.
2) The manual said that the gasket on the overfill drain pressing on the outside of the tub should have a bead of %100 silicone and there was none. The arger has a long horizontal shaped overspill drain. The Gasket on crossection looks like a U.
3) the shower head was left at 83" above the floor
4) the hole was left uncovered in the substrate and is about 13" by 7".
5) To my surprise, after the work was done he said it would only be warranteed for 30 days!

Should I be concerned about any of this?

TheEplumber

You sound concerned, what did your plumber say when you asked him about these items?

wraiththe

I have not had a chance to approach him about it... I did not want to hover over him while he was installing the tub either.

1) I figured he would know the correct way to install the tub because he said he had done it before, He is an experienced plumber that was highly reccomended by a local plumbing retailer. The BBB has record of him and he checked out.

I did not know about the feet not being secured.

As far as the silicone goes, he said he used plumbing putty on the overspill drain from the inside and that it would not leak. (Because he did not follow the directions and the shortness of the warrantee, I am concnerned about it.)

I did not notice the shower head was higher until the weekend.

I did not know about the hole in the floor until I looked through the hole cut in the other side of the wall to gain access to the tub drain pipes.

He said he would not warrantee the tub because he did not sell it to me, I said I did not expect him to, but the warrantee on the work he did should be longer than a month. How do can I start closing the wall, finishing the tile, and sleep at night knowing it could leak in a month and he cannot be held responsible? The warrantee pisses me off more than anything.

I threaded some 6 mill plastic under the pipe and over the hole. Tacked it to the floor and will cover it with some insulation. This will keep it seperate from my neighbor downstairs and stop the hellacious draft.

I may ask him to come back and lower the shower head and put a bead of silicone in the seal if possible. Not sure if I am righteous or not.

Just because he says something it does not make it right though. I trusted him. Now I am questioning both our judgements. Dont want to void the warrantee on the tub either. I am exending myself financially and cannot afford this shower, much less any mistakes taking my neighbors bathroom out either. That is why I hired this guy in the first place. Since I know that I don't really know.... Did I make a big mistake with this guy? Or will it most likely be OK.

TheEplumber

Having no pictures to look at, or knowing existing circumstances/conditions or conversations, I offer these comments:

1. I've never set a tub using adhesive. But I do generally read the installation guide for specifics.
2. I never use silicone on the overflow, only the gasket.
3. I generally cut the shower head riser pipe to allow the new valve to be installed. The new valve is reconnected to the existing shower head pipe without the head being relocated. The 90 inside the wall must be anchored to the framing. To relocate the head means tearing off wall finishes to anchor the pipe, which I try to avoid. I'm assuming your plumber was doing the same. You don't say what the previous height was.
4. A hole is needed to assemble the waste and overflow and to connect it to the trap. Sounds like you might have a fire rated assembly that he compromised. He should address that. However, I generally don't seal those except for the reason stated.
5. I don't warranty owner supplied products period.

Hope this helps.

wraiththe

Hi,
Sorry, you are right, I should have included pics.

1) I am not sure adhesive, thinset or a felt liner is necessary for under a tub. It seems OK the way he did it, I just want to be sure. (The old tub was not glued down either. But this is against the instructions.)

2) I have included a few pictures including the overflow pipe and gasket that was not sealed with silicone.(or anything as far as I was told.

3) In truth, I did not specify a height and he only moved the whole pipe/head/valve assembly 1.5" to accomidate the higher tub. He also secured it way better than it originally was, (albeit crossbeams are connected fugly.) (We are keeping the hardware and just replacing the handles and such.)

4) I believe you are right about the fire code. We have gypcrete floors which is another headache, but good for firewalls. I am sure he would not want to rip the tub back out to fix the floor.

5) Although you would not warranty the products, what about the seals you connect?

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