Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Plumbing

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 06-15-2010, 11:38 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 195
Rewards Points: 150
Default

Joining ABS to cast iron at a joint


While cleaning out an old vertical 2" cast iron drain, the pipe snapped off leaving me with a broken 45 barely sticking up out of the foundation. There is no clean way to join to this since it is almost flush with the cement floor.

I figure with a little careful chiseling I can expose the next joint since its partly visible now. With luck I can remove the lead and rope packing on that joint. At that point I will be joining a new ABS 45 with the mostly buried cast 45 bell. Or I suppose I could still find a new cast 45 somewhere, but I'd still have ABS above that.

What do I use to join these two? Once it is sealed it will be mostly covered with a new cement patch for solid support (unless there is something better). .

tns1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2010, 09:11 AM   #2
Doing it myself
 
Alan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Crescent City, CA
Posts: 3,762
Rewards Points: 2,024
Send a message via AIM to Alan Send a message via MSN to Alan
Default

Joining ABS to cast iron at a joint


They make an internal gasket that you put on the pipe, insert pipe into fitting, and pound the gasket into the fitting to make tight.

Some people call them donuts. I don't know what they are actually called.

__________________
Journeyman Plumber
Alan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-17-2010, 09:14 AM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 195
Rewards Points: 150
Default

Joining ABS to cast iron at a joint


I removed the broken pipe. What I am looking at now is 2" cast iron bell on a 45 which goes down into a 2" horizontal which feeds to the sewer main.
This is all in the concrete foundation. By using a mirror, the pipe looks good, but just inside the 45, there is a good 1/4" of hard buildup on the upper side of the pipe. It seems to be mainly at the 45 and not down the pipe.

An adjacent wall make it hard to get a long chisel in there so I am trying the Drain Care product. This scale/crud can be chipped at, but it seems pretty solid. I kind of doubt any drain cleaner would be able to soak into it. I have a flex shaft dremel tool I may try.

It looks like the joint donuts are made by Fernco. They give no dimensions so it is not clear if they are for CI-CI or CI-ABS. It also looks like they must be ordered.
tns1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2010, 12:14 AM   #4
Owner
 
LateralConcepts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 998
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Joining ABS to cast iron at a joint


Here's what you'll need once you get the hub cleaned out.

SVG-2 - 2” service weight cast iron
http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/donut...e-pipe-gaskets. You shouldn't have to order it. They'll most likely have one in stock at a local plumbing wholesale supply house.

These can sometimes be extremely difficult to push into the cast iron hub. Especially in a tight spot. I'd suggest getting some Duck Butter or you may be able to use another kind of lubricant. Crisco maybe. And a mallet for blunt force.

You'll actually need a "Street" 45 to push into the new rubber bushing.



If you're seeing "scale/crud" built up inside the hub is most likely lead that's somewhat oxidized or discolored from calcium. You may be able to melt it out with a torch and a good mask. Chisel's safer!

EDIT - I tried looking for wholesale vendors in San Diego. Doesn't look like there's Keller or M&L which I'm more familiar with but there's a Ferguson in San Diego. They should carry Fernco products.

4699 Mercury St
San Diego, CA 92111
858-974-5100

Last edited by LateralConcepts; 06-18-2010 at 12:26 AM. Reason: Supply
LateralConcepts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2010, 01:21 PM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 195
Rewards Points: 150
Default

Joining ABS to cast iron at a joint


The crud is in the pipe, not the hub. It is years of accumulated organic and water scale but seems to be just around the tight bends. I was able to chip at it and shave away most of it with a dremel.

What Ferguson had was an EZ Tight compression gasket. Because of the tight space, I placed it into the bell first, and then I inserted an ABS pipe stub. I used silicon grease to lube everything and it just took some twisting and pushing to bottom out. I then glued a standard 45 onto the stub. The bell on my pipe has about 2" of engagement, so a street 45 does not have enough length to bottom out as it should.

The pic of the Fernco gasket shows that it gets pounded all the way into the bell regardless of the bell depth. The EZ Tight has a big lip on it that prevents it from going more than about 1.5" into the bell. I am wondering if I should trim off that lip and pound the gasket all the way in more like the Fernco part. This would increase the sealing area, and allow me to layer adhesive on top if I still had problem with leaks.

I have a flex coupling at the other end of my repair so it is easy to remove and replace the entire section until I am satisfied. Only then will I cover it with cement.
tns1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2010, 08:39 AM   #6
Owner
 
LateralConcepts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 998
Rewards Points: 500
Red face

Joining ABS to cast iron at a joint


I would leave the new EZ Tight gasket as is. Don't try to modify it. The lip around the top of the bell will help it seal on both sides. Just make sure your ABS stub coming out of the old hub is short enough that your new ABS 45 hub seats against the rubber gasket when glued. I don't think you'll have a problem with leaks. Sounds like you've done it properly.
LateralConcepts is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2010, 12:36 PM   #7
retired elect/hvac/plumb
 
plummen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: south east of omaha/The island of misfit contractors
Posts: 2,911
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Joining ABS to cast iron at a joint


Quote:
Originally Posted by Alan View Post
They make an internal gasket that you put on the pipe, insert pipe into fitting, and pound the gasket into the fitting to make tight.

Some people call them donuts. I don't know what they are actually called.
push joint
plummen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-20-2010, 12:39 PM   #8
retired elect/hvac/plumb
 
plummen's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: south east of omaha/The island of misfit contractors
Posts: 2,911
Rewards Points: 2,000
Default

Joining ABS to cast iron at a joint


is there a C.I stack continuing above the broken piece you repaired? if so the repair of the stack should be made with C.I fittings
plummen is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2010, 10:10 AM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 195
Rewards Points: 150
Default

Joining ABS to cast iron at a joint


It is all ABS above the repair. I tested it and there are no leaks. It is probably not necessary to put any extra adhesive on this gasket, but if I did, what would be a good choice? It would have to be flexible and stick to ABS, rubber and CI. I think when I patch up the concrete, I will leave a small depression around the joint for now so it can be accessed. It is an out of the way corner of a garage so it does not have to be covered.

The ABS 45 does butt up against the gasket, which I suppose may help prevent it from being pushed out of the hub by back pressure.

When I finally looked at the Multi Tite SVG-2 pic, I see it is almost identical to the EZ Tight product. They both have the big lip and do not engage more than about 1.5" or so. Previously I was comparing it to the Fernco donut which does not have the lip and looks like it has more ribs for greater sealing area on the hub. If the donut had been stocked locally that is what I would have used.
tns1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-21-2010, 01:05 PM   #10
Owner
 
LateralConcepts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 998
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Joining ABS to cast iron at a joint


I wouldn't worry about any extra sealant. If you don't have leaks now, you probably won't later.

Just wrap it with pipe wrap before re-finishing the concrete. If you don't want to splurge on special pipe wrap, just use corrugated cardboard or thin foam wrap

LateralConcepts is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
pvc to cast iron hub using fernco-can't get it! What have I done Plumbing 10 01-22-2014 07:55 PM
Cast Iron Pipe ehv8trix Plumbing 4 11-25-2009 06:49 PM
working with cast iron ericadami Plumbing 9 11-30-2008 12:45 PM
Cast iron and rusty pipe question snowens Plumbing 2 07-27-2008 10:07 AM
Help with Cast Iron Material Tester Plumbing 2 10-25-2007 10:58 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.