installing a shutoff valve -- potential problem

19mquinn79

i want to install a shutoff valve in the pipe that leads to an exterior tap. the valve would be located right in the middle of the pipe, as opposed to being located right at the tap itself.

it seems like i may have a problem if i don't cut the exactly precise length of pipe. is there an easy way to avoid this problem? should i simply cut a large section of pipe and use a braided flexible steel pipe to make up the difference?

sorry, i have basically zero plumbing experience here.

(and one other thing -- the how-to article i'm reading says no soldering is required for this job -- is teflon tape/paste really going to prevent a leak?)

Alan

Not enough information.

Please post a picture of what you are trying to do, describe the piping being used, and the fittings you intend on using.

From your original post I really have no idea what you are talking about.

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19mquinn79

My bad. I'm not at home right now, so I can't post pics yet, but I'll describe it best I can.

I have a copper pipe running along my basement wall. It leads to an exterior tap. I want to install a shutoff valve in that pipe, somewhere along that inside wall.

I'm a beginner, so I don't know which fittings I will be using -- I assumed I would buy a standard straight valve at the hardware store and that it would come with the right fittings.

I'm concerned about what will happen if, when I cut out the section of pipe where the valve will go, I do not cut it exactly the right length.

Hope this clears things up a bit. Thanks for listening.

md2lgyk

Normally, the second valve should be fairly close to the outside faucet, not a distance away. You use a type of valve that has a drain plug (don't recall the exact name). When the valve is shut, you unscrew the drain plug and drain the water out of the section of pipe between the two valves. Otherwise, it can still freeze and burst the pipe.

rjniles

Stop & waste valve.


Needs to be soldered in.

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NitroNate

there should be enough give in the copper line that you don't have to cut it perfect. the valve should be sized to fit on the copper pipe directly, no need for extra fittings. measure the outside diameter (OD) of the pipe to determine the size. 1/2" copper pipe is 5/8" OD and 3/4" pipe is 7/8" OD. my assumption is that it would be 3/4".

Alan

I'd put a ball valve on it. For a few dollars more you get many more years of trouble free use out of it.

The best way is to solder one on there, and you'll probably need a union too just in case there isn't enough give in the piping to get the valve on by itself.

You can actually buy a sharkbite valve (no soldering required) but I wouldn't personally guarantee the o rings to last as long as the valve would, not to mention the o ring seal allows the valve to rotate around the pipe. Not really very practical IMO.

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Mark Potter

If you have like no plumbing skills then use this Sharkbite ball valve sounds like 1/2" your using? They come in that size.




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Mark Potter

Alan- you are correct about the bite valve would move but not that easy need to make shore there really in there and pipe is level and they do last a very long time hard water like anything cut the life span down.

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George6488

I'm thinking frost-free hydrant on outside? Does not require the memory to shut off valve before cold weather comes.

rjniles

But you do have to remember to remove the hose.

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