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Installing pre-formed shower base pan

10K views 4 replies 4 participants last post by  Ghostmaker 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello,

I have a question with regards to installing a shower base pan. I framed up the walls for the bathroom and was getting ready to install the shower base pan (photo 1). There is a small gap between the face of the studs and the edge of the shower pan along the back wall (photo 2). The gap is around 3/16" wide, tough to get a good photo of the gap, it looks small in the picture. Should i split the difference of the gap between the front and back of the shower, or should i butt it up tight to one wall, and shim the other wall? What type of shims should i get? Do they make 1.5" wide shims that are as tall as the studs, so I can nail it up the wall full height?

Next question is with regards to installing the brass drain, (you can see it in middle of pan in photo 1). The concrete dap out that I have in the basement is shown in photo 3, it was made for a tub, but I am installing shower with right hand drain. The center of the drain line is in the bottom left corner of the dap out, and you can see in photo 4 the orange line I traced on the edge of the concrete, that is the edge of the brass drain, so I need to notch out that little bit of concrete in the corner, about 1/4" thick around that corner. What would be the best way to do that, concrete chisel and a hammer? Dont want to mess with concrete saw if I do not have too.

Thanks in advance,
Steve
 

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#2 ·
Do you have a 2" drain under there? You need one for a shower.


What's going on the walls? Tile? If so you're going to have backerboard down to the flange and the tile will overlap it. Split the difference.

If it's a remodel shower kit, same deal. The thing bolts together and the sheetrock goes up to the flange and hot mud over the flange up to the edge of the shower wall. Split the difference.
 
#3 ·
Do you have a 2" drain under there? You need one for a shower.


What's going on the walls? Tile? If so you're going to have backerboard down to the flange and the tile will overlap it. Split the difference.

If it's a remodel shower kit, same deal. The thing bolts together and the sheetrock goes up to the flange and hot mud over the flange up to the edge of the shower wall. Split the difference.
Yes, have a 2" drain, need to install p-trap, that's why Im laying it out now, so I can get center of drain location for setting the trap. When I try to lay the brass drain in, it almost fits in, except it sticks up about one half inch since it hits that corner of the concrete. If the concrete were chipped down about 1/2" deep, and 1/4" or so wide, the brass drain line would fit, and then the pvc would fit within the drain.

Tile is going on the walls, using backerboard. Do you want the board to stop at the flange, or to go over the flange, and stop above the lip?

Do I need to install a vapor barrier behind the cement board? I have heard you should, since the tile, grout, and cement board are all porous and let water vapor through.

Thanks,
Steve
 
#4 ·
I would drill a series of holes in the perimeter of concrete to be chipped away and then go at it with the chisel and hammer.

For the inset you centre the tray in your alcove and then put shim behind when screwing it to the studs. The cement board goes down to the top edge but not inside of the tray. You do not put vapour barrier behind the cement board. You use a waterproofing product on the front of the cement board. A paint on product like red guard or a membrane like Kerdi. You can skip cement board and go with Kerdi board which is super light with a foam core so easy to do as a diy product. The Kerdi board is a bit on the expensive side but is easier. You just put a bit of Kerdi band over the fasteners and joints to get a waterproof seal.

Check the manufacturer of your tray. They have instructions.
 
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