Installing a new Whirlpool tub in a basement.

Marcus1

Here is a Picture of the Plumbing that I am hoping to use http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMAG0682.jpg 1'st, next is the hole in the floor, hope that this helps. Thanks

VIPlumber

Ok, much better. Now I have a good idea of what you're seeing.

The problem is the fact that the P trap will sit directly on top of the existing drain for something else (do you know what that drain is for?)

The solution, as I see it, is illustrated in the attached pic.

The red lines represent new cuts to be made to the concrete. It sucks, I know, but I believe that this represents the most simple and effective solution to your situation.

The blue lines represent the new direction for the mystery (to me) drain. If you use the existing line as an example, all that we're trying to accomplish is to move this line over to accommodate the P trap for the new left hand drain whirlpool tub.

The yellow line is the P trap hooking into moved drain line.

Renovation of existing often presents greater challenges, as you never know what you'll find till you 'open 'er up', as opposed to new build where everything is wide open and easy to see.

Remember though that doing things the proper may sometimes involve a lot of work, but are worth the effort as you'll only have to do it once.

Attached Thumbnails

 

Marcus1

Thank you VIPlumber for the new insite on the drain plumbing, I like your idea of altering the plumbing. The 2" pipe is the drain for the washing machine. I have laid in some plumbing for illustration as the house plumbing is still in tact. If I cut the plumbing at the new concrete cut mark that you illustrated, I sat in a long sweep 90* under the concrete then a small piece of 2" pipe to a 2 in. PVC DWV 45-Degree Hub x Hub Elbow to a length of pipe to a long sweep 90 to retie into the far side pipe to complete the existing drain. Then cut the existing pipe in the picture, install the "P" trap from the bottom of the tub, then install a small piece of pipe then attach the 2 in. x 1-1/2 in. PVC DWV Reducing Coupling to attach to the existing 2 in. pipe that will get cut down and a 2" collar to complete the drain system. Here is a picture of what I mean....I like it when others have insite around the box. http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...1/IMAG0688.jpg Please let me know what you think. Thanx......

VIPlumber

Hi Marcus,

My pleasure. Looks pretty good, but if you remove the 45 after the 90 you'll give yourself more space to hook in the tee wye needed to connect the new P trap to the drain line. Then the old tee wye gets replaced by the coupler, thus removing the old tub drain, and voila you're in business (after you replace the concrete, tiles, install the tub, clean up the mess you made, etc...).

A couple of pointers about gluing PVC/ABS together;

- Measure the depth of the hub (3/4" for 2" I believe?) and mark it on all the pipes you'll be fitting together. It gives you to a target to aim for. Shapies work great.
- You really do need to twist the pipe a 1/4 turn into the fitting to get the best depth/adhesion of the joint. And hold for 30 sec. That may seem excessive but the glue does try to push the pipe back out of the fitting for the first 10-15 sec.
- 1/4" per foot is the recommended grade, and even though this is a pretty small portion of the whole drain line/run, you might as well do it right while it's exposed. I'm sure you don't want to have to do this over again. Get a torpedo level, they're perfect for this sort of job.
- The last connection in the drain line will be the hardest so you should use a shielded no hub coupling.



It'll allow you to slide it fully over the pipe, position your other end, slide it back over and then tighten it up. A 5/16 nut driver or ratchet is the right size for this.

You're doing well so far grasshopper.

VIPlumber

So Marcus,

How did it work out? Any updates?