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Old 03-05-2009, 07:47 PM   #16
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Installing a New Bathroom in my basement


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I am assuming these fittings are not yet glued. Be sure to use primer and the right glue. The inspector will want to see the purple primer past these joints.

Is this pipe on an exterior wall?

You need steel notch plates from the plumbing department where the pipes go through the studs. This is so no errant nailing penetrates the pipes.

yes you need to break out the concrete a little to handle the offset, that is if the finished floor is not coming up much.

How is the rest of the flooring being handled? You may want to make the two floors close to the same height.

No, 3/4 plywood cannot be placed directly on concrete. Remember.. no wood to concrete is allowed unless treated... same rule applies here. If tiling you only need to add tile to the concrete.
Bob,

I have not glued the pea trap yet.

The vent pipes are against the foundation wall.

What do you mean the two floors? Are you referring to the shower floor? I am using a shower basin.

I was reading on some of the forums that it is not recommended to tile directly to concrete. If the below concrete floor settles/moves, it will crack the tile. Should I use concrete board for the floor?

Thanks,
-jeff

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Old 03-05-2009, 10:23 PM   #17
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Installing a New Bathroom in my basement


I was referring to the bath floor compared to the basement floor (other rooms).

New concrete is more of a problem with movement. Below grade is a problem with moisture, again why you do not want the plywood. CBU is unnecessary over concrete. To handle both potential movement and moisture I would install Ditra over the concrete then the tile. I just did not think we got that far yet.
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Old 03-06-2009, 01:46 PM   #18
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Installing a New Bathroom in my basement


Bob,

Yes, the floor is the basement floor. I live in Naperville, IL. The basement is below grade. I was reading about Ditra. I will use it prior to tiling.

In regards to tiling the shower area. I was planning on installing Durock within the shower walls. Do I need to use tar paper or something similar prior to install the Durock?

I know I am jumping the gun by asking you all these questions prior to completing the H20 installing. But that is how my mind thinks. I am always planning ahead.

OK. Lets get back to the H20 installation. Since I have to install a sink drain, do I use 2" PVC or smaller? Then do I have to drill a hole through every single 2x4 until I reach the ejector pump area and tie into the existing vent line coming out of the ejector pump area?

Can I tie both vent lines together -- sink to the shower, and take it over the top of the bathroom to the vent line I photographed or do I have to take it to the ejector pump area?

How about the water lines? In order to keep the water pressure the strongest for the bathroom, should I run 3/4" piping off the main run (horizontal) until I am above the shower area, then use 1/2" to the shower value and beyond (to toliet then sink)? Is there any code that says how far off the ground I must run the 1/2" copper to the fixtures? Do I run the copper through all the 2x4's?

Thank you,
--jeff
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Old 03-06-2009, 02:17 PM   #19
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Installing a New Bathroom in my basement


use unmodified thinset with Ditra.

Nothing behind the durarock, but I would use 2" rigid insulation glued to all the concrete walls

Thinset with mesh tape the Durarock seems. then apply Regard waterproofing over it all

Tie all the vents to one and then to whatever vent line you have going through the roof. Hopefully you do not need to use the one for the ejector, which should remain isolated.

Use 1" 1/2 for the sinks unless you already have 2" which I thought you did. Connect the tee upside down and vent from the top of this tee to the floor joists. Make all your connection up there.


Use 3/4" to to the bath then run 1/2" to each fixture. Run down next bay over from sink so you can run 12" above the tee going out of the wall which gets capped. Bad description. You want a 12" piece above the valves which will act like a shock absorber to quiet the pipes. Stub out height depends on the type of sink you are installing. Toilet is about 6" off the floor Shower is about 45" Sink is about 24" and drain to sink is about 20"
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Old 03-07-2009, 11:32 AM   #20
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Installing a New Bathroom in my basement


Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Mariani View Post
use unmodified thinset with Ditra.

Nothing behind the durarock, but I would use 2" rigid insulation glued to all the concrete walls

Thinset with mesh tape the Durarock seems. then apply Regard waterproofing over it all

Tie all the vents to one and then to whatever vent line you have going through the roof. Hopefully you do not need to use the one for the ejector, which should remain isolated.

Use 1" 1/2 for the sinks unless you already have 2" which I thought you did. Connect the tee upside down and vent from the top of this tee to the floor joists. Make all your connection up there.


Use 3/4" to to the bath then run 1/2" to each fixture. Run down next bay over from sink so you can run 12" above the tee going out of the wall which gets capped. Bad description. You want a 12" piece above the valves which will act like a shock absorber to quiet the pipes. Stub out height depends on the type of sink you are installing. Toilet is about 6" off the floor Shower is about 45" Sink is about 24" and drain to sink is about 20"
Bob,

I have run into a road block. The location of the shower drain is located below the waste line. From the floor to the bottom of the waste line measures 7' prior to any construction work. If I were to shower I would feel crampped. Plus the direction the waste flows, is the entire length of the bathroom. See pictures.

Can I move the waste PVC back towards the wall without interferring with the the direction of the flow? I would need to move the waste pipe back about 2 feet, then add 90 degree elbows. Once completed, I would frame out the waste line. Then the foundation wall, after framing would be 7' and the remaining bathroom ceiling would be 8'.

Question #1: You did not answer my question about running the copper from the shower to the remaining fixtures. Do I drill a hole through all of the 2x4's to reach the remaining fixtures or do I run the copper from the shower then back up towards the ceiling and over to the sink then drop down?

Question #2: Can you tell me which pipe is hot and cold from the picture below the bathroom above?

Thank you for your help?
-jeff
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Old 03-07-2009, 12:02 PM   #21
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Installing a New Bathroom in my basement


#1 I thought I did answer this. 3/4" from main source to area in ceiling of bathroom. From there you use Tee fittings to run 1/2" runs through joists and down through top plate to each fixture. From sink run another 1/2" tee to toilet

#2 Nope... you will have to trace it out.

You can move the PVC at the ceiling back as long as you still maintain a constant pitch towards the pump pit. Try to use sweep 90 not a short 90. Build a soffit over this pipe which may be over the vanities and the shower are both fine.

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