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Old 06-12-2008, 09:51 AM   #1
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installing bath/shower faucet


okay, this will be real easy (for you).

the MOEN instructions are not very good.

two questions as a result:

Q1: the four sockets on the hub (is this what you call it ?) are all threaded 1/2. i was expecting solder. no big deal, but my question is: should i go with a copper thread/solder adapter that first gets screwed in and then soldered ? i am reluctant because what if i do not apply dope properly and it leaks, i won't know before i have soldered, at which point it will be too late to fix the threaded portion ? see what i'm saying ?

Q2: the instructions are saying that the nipple that goes inside the spout is optional, although it does not seem so to me. the end inside is also threaded so should i just use a galvanized nipple there all along to avoid using an adapter, since the hub end is also threaded ?

confused.

thanks,

- a -

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Old 06-12-2008, 10:18 AM   #2
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Some (not all) shower mixing valves have a dual setup. They have the 1/2" threads, but deeper than those threads there is a milled area that will accept a sweat copper connection.

Remember, NO HEAT TO THE VALVE ASSEMBLY. You must remove the guts before heating the body.

You can just transition to 1/2" copper with 1/2" NPT-1/2" sweat adapters. Solder your nipples on first. Once cool to the touch, use 4 or 5 wraps of teflon tape and crank them down. The thread tape will take the heat if you choose to thread them in and then solder.

If you're talking about the tub diverter spout, yes, a galvanized nipple 4 or 5 inches long will do the trick. I imagine that your instructions mean that the diverter itself is optional. You don't have to install it if you're just using it as a shower.

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Old 06-12-2008, 10:25 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by thekctermite View Post
The thread tape will take the heat if you choose to thread them in and then solder.
but eventually i will be sweating them on the other side after threading, which is only maybe 4-6 inches away, which is plenty close to transmit the heat and melt the tape. still kind of confused.
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Old 06-12-2008, 10:26 AM   #4
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installing bath/shower faucet


I prefer to pre-make all of my shower valve piping before attaching to the brass when I can. I don't like to solder within a couple inches of the brass, because that brass just sucks the heat right up, and my flux has a tendency to boil out of the really hot spots and doesn't draw the solder up as reliably because the torch is on the copper longer than it would normally be. I've had a couple pinhole leaks because of doing it the other way. It is probably because I'm not a professional plumber and don't do it every day, but I prefer not to risk it.

Just always be sure to charge the lines before you sheetrock to make sure nothing's leaking!
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Old 06-12-2008, 10:26 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by amakarevic View Post
but eventually i will be sweating them on the other side after threading, which is only maybe 4-6 inches away, which is plenty close to transmit the heat and melt the tape. still kind of confused.
That tape will take well over 600 degrees. Solder melts well below that. It won't be an issue, I promise.
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Old 06-12-2008, 08:12 PM   #6
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installing bath/shower faucet


Quote:
Originally Posted by thekctermite View Post
That tape will take well over 600 degrees. Solder melts well below that. It won't be an issue, I promise.
If you're really worried about it, get a wet rag and wrap it around the threaded adapter. This will help keep it cool....... Don't get the rag TOO wet, however, as drips will migrate toward the heat.

Besides, 1/2" solders together so fast, the heat probably won't transfer to the threads by the time you've applied the filler metal. In fact, we never take the guts out of our moen valves, and never ever have problems with it. Wouldn't reccomend it to an amateur though. It takes a lot of practice.

P.S. I thought solder melted at like 800-1000 F ?

Checking codebook............. ...... ...... .....

Nevermind.... Soldering is below 840F (most occurs at 300-550)

Brazing is above 840 F ( most occurs at 1100 - 1500)
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Old 06-13-2008, 05:48 AM   #7
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installing bath/shower faucet


I just installed a new shower faucet in the same way. Just dry fit all your joints and sweat as much as you can before you hook it up. I just taped those screw adapters and cranked them into the mixer valve first, then soldered the joints.
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Old 06-13-2008, 09:07 AM   #8
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installing bath/shower faucet


Quote:
Originally Posted by thekctermite View Post
If you're talking about the tub diverter spout, yes, a galvanized nipple 4 or 5 inches long will do the trick. I imagine that your instructions mean that the diverter itself is optional. You don't have to install it if you're just using it as a shower.
Don't use galvanized nipples, use brass.
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Old 06-13-2008, 09:35 AM   #9
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installing bath/shower faucet


thanks everyone !
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Old 06-13-2008, 10:22 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Ron The Plumber View Post
Don't use galvanized nipples, use brass.
Electrolysis? Makes sense. Good catch!

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