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utilitylocator 01-28-2009 05:22 PM

I made a mistake and put in the tub surround early. Need plumbing help!!
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I am on a limited budget and doing a hillbilly bathroom remodel. I put in a wall between the sink and shower. I than added the tub and surround. The surround is apoxied and screwed in to the wall, siliconed then sheetrocked arround. My question is this...

How do I install the hardware to the faucets and is there any pictures I can use or advice I can get on how to do the plumbing?

Here is the link to the faucets I will be using...

The pictures show the tub and surround and shows the back side of the wall where I will be istalling the plumbing. The last picture shows the old plumbing but it was put in before the old tub when bolth sides of the wall was accessable. I have the hot water (Cpvc) and cold water(Pvc) pipes capped off in the crawl space under the house and have not bought any of the stuff needed to do the hot/cold water yet. I do believe I got the drain part figured out and will be putting it in tomorow. I am concerned about how I may have made a mistake of putting in the new surround first, but I had to form fit the wall to the tub due to the other two walls being realy out of plumb. Any advice would greatly apreciated!!

Chemist1961 01-28-2009 05:58 PM

First, SLOW DOWN you don't want to damage this by rushing it now

Good that you moved the fan. Your wall is open this should work ok. You will need to get the recomended cutting tool for that tub surround. I haven't done these before but a hole saw may be OK. I think I would measure and mark with masking tape before drilling from the tub side a small marker hole for pipe alignment on the backside.
Your wal is open so with a bit of care you shoukld be OK.

Don't drill anything yet. just get some measurements There will be someone experienced on here to help.
Hang in there

Ultrarunner2017 01-28-2009 06:39 PM

I would think that you are much better off having installed the surround and now can drill a pilot hole from the rear so that you get it in the correct position. If you tried to mark and drill the surround prior to installing it, considering your "out of plumb" walls, I don't think you would have been able to get things to line up.

As Chemist1961 said, just slow down; don't do anything without first measuring, marking, and getting exactly the right tools.

I don't do much plumbing, but I do electrical, and have all of my troubles when I jump into something too quickly.
I also find that once I do study the situation completely, and then know exactly what I want to do, I have the confidence that I can do it, and the whole job goes much easier.

When you get stressed out, take a step back from the work, take a few days off, whatever, and go back when you know you can handle it.

Good luck.


wrangler 01-28-2009 07:13 PM

Are you going to re-use the old valve? If so, one change I would make is changing the pipe from the valve to the tub spout to copper. Some people will say that CPVC is fine for a tub spout, but if you should slip in the tub you can easily break the cpvc and have a new mess on your hands. But if you are still going to use it as is, measure the distance between the tub spout pipe and middle of the valve (usually about 8"). take a level and from the inside of the tub make a vertical line bisecting the overflow and going up (use a wet erase pen if you have one so that you do not permamently mark your new tub. If not, a grease marker or crayon will work.) Make a horizontal mark 4" above the tub ledge bisecting the first line. This is where your tub spout hole will be located. Then measure up from there the distance that you got from measuring the valve-to-tub spout(the approx 8") This will be where you will cut the valve body hole. I use a 4" hole saw for my valve bodies and 1" spade bit for the tub spout. If you do not have a 4" hole saw, you can draw a 4" circle, drill a pilot hole, and then cut it out with a jig saw. After you place your valve in the hole you will need to put a 2x4 cross brace between the studs to attach the valve to. Make sure the you only put screws through the mounting holes of the valve, and not the two holes where the cover plate screws go. With that type of enclosure I would reccomend placing the showerhead above the wall panel though the sheetrock. this too should be braced. Then you can attach you hot/cold supplies.
I hope I have explained this clear enough. If not, lots of good people here to answer your questions, as you already know.

ponch37300 01-28-2009 08:16 PM

Wrangler gave some good instructions. You will be fine with your enclosure up first. Run your PVC pipes up to the diverter and then use copper like he mentioned. You will need to solder the joints. Not hard just a little intimidating if you have never done it before. For most diverters you will need male threaded adapters for the copper pipe and for the shower they make one of these

zosoplumber 01-29-2009 06:58 AM

i would get a measurment of your overflow hole first, the side measurment, that will be your center for your 2 other holes, it should be around 15"1/2 to 16" from edge of tub, then measure 6" up from lip of tub, directly above overflow, then mark 16" above lip, so you have a ten inch gap between 1st and 2nd mark. Then measure your center mark from side of tub at each mark, and thats where you want to drill your holes, use a 4" hole saw bit for your 16" mark and a 5/8" hole saw bit for your 6" mark(a little bigger hole saw bit won't matter for your 6" mark hole, the faucet will cover up any larger hole. When sweating the down spout line on the valve measure out 8" of 1/2 " copper and sweat that on the Down spout end, at the end of the 8" copper sweat on a drop eared 90.(its a copper 90 with 2 screw holes on each side for mounting.) and sweat around an 8-10" piece for your stub out for faucet. the shower head riser can be made to fit, meaning how ever high you want the shower head to be, cut that piece of copper how high you want it and sweat on a threaded 90 for your connection to your head.

utilitylocator 02-01-2009 09:11 AM

I need to find a way to join up cpvc and pvc temporarily (a few years) As I am going to use all cpvc for hot and cold in the bath room and eventualy trancfer over all pvc to cpvc. For now the bathroom plumbing needs to tie into the existing pvc for a moment. I guess sharkbites dont work for cpvc to pvc? The website mentions nothing for pvc actualy.

Edit: I am thinking that since I cant get or afford the pex tools for pex and I cant unite pvc and cpvc, I should just use cpvc for hot and pvc for cold. As that is the way it is for the entire homes existing plumbing. It would make things so much easier and affordable....PLEASE...any thoughts on this?!?!

mikey48 02-01-2009 09:39 AM

If using a hole saw I would not cut from the back side, they can do damage when they break through.

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