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Old 11-05-2011, 10:53 PM   #1
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How would you fix this?


This fitting was damaged by a sawzall. It was (and is) under pressure, but not leaking. I'd like to address this before drywalling, but my soft soldering skills are lacking.

I could easily fix it with a sharkbite fitting. The backside of this wall will be accessible and in a laundryroom. How does the plumbing community feel about sharkbites? It's the hot water line.

Also, this same line (as seen in the wider view) will have a bit of stress when the valve is positioned for the backer board. I think I should 'dogleg' the line to relieve pressure from the uper and lower 90s (although the sharkbite would provide some relief). I thought I might use a 1/2" conduit bender. Is there any reason I should do this differently?

Thanks for any help .


How would you fix this?-showervalve___-img_8025.jpg


How would you fix this?-showervalve___-img_8028.jpg


Last edited by rightit; 11-05-2011 at 10:55 PM.
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Old 11-05-2011, 11:18 PM   #2
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How would you fix this?


My honest opinion- Position the valve where it belongs and anchor it to the framing. Then remove the 90 and damaged pipe. Replace it with new copper. Now you have no more worries. I don't recommend the shark bite method, but thats my opinion. Practice on your soldering skills. If you follow the proper steps, it's not that bad.
Edit: You can add a 45 at the lower 90 to make the riser more vertical and relieve the stress.


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Old 11-12-2011, 09:34 AM   #3
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How would you fix this?


Hi Eplumber. Apologies for the late response...unexpected business trip. Your response prompted me to re-think the Sharkbite fitting (even though assessible, I don't need potential issues...I was hoping it was a 'magic fix' in the plumbing world ).

The way I fixed this was to wrap the top and bottom 90s with rags soaked in ice water, heat the vertical length of hard drawn copper in between, let it cool, then bent vertical length as neccessary.

I repaired the abraded joint by fluxing it, reheating and re-soldering the joint (with the cold wet cloth wrapped around the top of the fitting). I applied extra solder over the abraded area to 'reinforce' it, making sure that the fitting was hot enough so that neither the joint nor the 'abrasion' were cold soldered.

Thanks for your help.

Last edited by rightit; 11-12-2011 at 09:38 AM.
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:10 PM   #4
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How would you fix this?


I shouldn't do this---but I will---Where are the air chambers ?
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Old 11-12-2011, 06:41 PM   #5
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How would you fix this?


Is that 1/2 of the stud missing in the one picture?
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Old 11-13-2011, 02:31 PM   #6
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How would you fix this?


Quote:
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I shouldn't do this---but I will---Where are the air chambers ?
Thanks for your question.

First, I should say that this job is permitted and the piping was done by a professional plumbing company.

Does the attached image show what you are asking about?
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How would you fix this?-bthplmbng-img_8032-edit.jpg  
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Old 11-13-2011, 02:44 PM   #7
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Is that 1/2 of the stud missing in the one picture?
Yes, but it's an add-in stud. Rather than using furring strips around the shower, I added in treated studs (staggered wall style) to bring the wall out to the shower pan to acommodate durock. So that cut stud doesn't reduce any support (and in fact, that wall isn't bearing any weight anyway).

Thanks!
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:25 PM   #8
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Thanks--Those knockers are good to have--Thank you.---Mike---
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Old 11-13-2011, 03:58 PM   #9
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Thanks--Those knockers are good to have--Thank you.---Mike---

Thank you. I appreciate the lookout.
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Old 11-14-2011, 08:00 AM   #10
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How would you fix this?


Quote:
Originally Posted by rightit View Post
I repaired the abraded joint by fluxing it, reheating and re-soldering the joint (with the cold wet cloth wrapped around the top of the fitting). I applied extra solder over the abraded area to 'reinforce' it, making sure that the fitting was hot enough so that neither the joint nor the 'abrasion' were cold soldered.
I'm no plumber, but I'd use a sharkbite before this method.

Then again, I'd re-solder the damaged area with new copper.

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