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How would I fix/re-do my sink's drain <leaking> piping?

12K views 17 replies 8 participants last post by  jpplumber 
#1 ·
I have no idea if this was done improperly or if this is just how it's normally done...

The plumbing for this sink has been this way since I got the house and I've never noticed any problems, maybe it leaked a little but I doubt it. Recently it pretty much flooded the cabinets when we emptied a blender's worth of water down that side of the sink.

<< it's the right side sink that's at issue here! >>

You can see in the picture that the way it was setup was basically wedged into place, I mean there's no visible adhesives, no clamps, no threading, nothing, it just seems to dangle there!!! If you wedge the drain piping up onto the sink's outlet/drain spot, it will stay in place for a bit (see picture #2), but it will fall back down within a day (picture #3) and, if there's a decent amount of water going down that sink's drain, it'll overflow!



I have no idea what to do with this, as there's no threading on the sink's drain outlet piece, the piping is too rigid to clamp it'd seem, and I don't think plumber's putty is gonna help me here :wink: . Any tips on what I need to get/do to fix this would be greatly appreciated, I keep forgetting not to dump lots of water down that side of the sink :whistling2: !!!!!


Pic#1: sink's drain setup
Pic#2: Me holding it up, 'wedged' in place as it had been for a while
Pic#3: when it really falls down and gets messy!
 

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#5 ·
the problem with lengthening the tail piece is the final positioning of that tube - if it's any lower that tube will be horizontal, or even tilted towards the right, so there wouldn't be any gravity to fully drain it would there? Or would I also extend the other side's tailpiece to keep it balanced with a slight decline *towards* the left?
 
#7 ·
If this were my sink, I'd replace the actual drain assembly first and get a lower profile one than what's there at present. Go with a simple thread-on drain. Even 1/2" less in overall depth will solve the problem. Next, I'd get a new 6" tailpiece. Trim the length of the new tailpiece to size and reassemble. That extra 1/2" is all you'll need to secure the tailpiece into the compression elbow.
 
#8 ·
Take the nut off then take the washer off. Inspect both for damage then slide the nut onto the tail piece, then the washer (make sure the washer is facing the right way). Next snug it a bit by hand, then just a tiny bit with channel locks, that might not even be necessary.
Then pull on it and see if it's tight. You will be able to pull it off, no compression washer like that locks up like glue but it should be firm. If that doesn't work try changing the washer. If that fails get a new tail piece. They make tail pieces that at 90 degree that will give you all the clearance you need and some.
 
#10 ·
hmm I think I'm just gonna go threaded - I'm actually surprised it's common practice to just have it 'loose' like that, not actually clamped/threaded/etc. My cat likes to climb around through there, if it's somethign that he is gonna keep dislodging I'll just swap the compression setup for something threaded/solid.
 
#11 · (Edited)
It is not common practice to be loose, something is wrong with the connection. The pvc is solid enough if put in right...I can hardly picture a cat knocking it off. I would replace it all. Parts needed: end out waste kit (that is the "T" and the long pipe that keeps falling down)that sometimes comes with tail pieces about and inch long but you can buy a double ended tail piece and cut them as long as you like, also get a p-trap. Size of kitchen sink waste lines is 1 1/2 tubular...no need to go any heavier, that is exactly what you have now. Cost about 10-15 dollars tops. It helps to brush a little pipe dope on the washers to prevent leaks but not required. Tools required: hack saw and channel locks.
 
#15 ·
? yeah, it screws off of the pipe that it fits on, the horizontal pipe. Given that there's no threads on the vertical pipe above it, it is not threaded to that pipe..
Ayuh,.....

The Horizonal pipe is glued to the Elbow,....

On the Vertical end of the Elbow has a Collar screwed onto it,+ Inside that Collar is the Compression Washer everybody is talking about....

It Clamps onto the pipe coming down from the Sink..........
 
#16 ·
Wow I've gotta be missing something! I played with it for the longest time and don't see how it clamps, with the washer in there and constantly screwing/unscrewing the thing I couldn't get it to give me any resistance when I gave it a little tug.. I'll need to check that out more I guess, it should be solid/noticable change when I screw it into place? I was curious why it even had that threaded spot because I couldn't get it to do anything when I screwed it on/off with that outlet spout in it.
 
#18 ·
It is not common practice to be loose, something is wrong with the connection. The pvc is solid enough if put in right...I can hardly picture a cat knocking it off. I would replace it all. Parts needed: end out waste kit (that is the "T" and the long pipe that keeps falling down)that sometimes comes with tail pieces about and inch long but you can buy a double ended tail piece and cut them as long as you like, also get a p-trap. Size of kitchen sink waste lines is 1 1/2 tubular...no need to go any heavier, that is exactly what you have now. Cost about 10-15 dollars tops. It helps to brush a little pipe dope on the washers to prevent leaks but not required. Tools required: hack saw and channel locks.
I really don't know why you are dragging this thing out, quit trying to reuse the existing parts...evidently the nut is not tightening down as it should. Buy new and replace. Easy job if you cut the tubes to the proper length, slide nut on first, next, plastic washer with tapered side down, brush a little pipe dope to be sure and tighten by hand and snug with channel locks if you like.
 
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