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Old 01-18-2013, 09:14 AM   #1
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How to repair PEX


I had a 90* copper (or Brass-not sure) fitting crack where it meets a galvanized pipe nipple that goes to the an outside hose bib. It's on an exterior wall and is connector to pex with a steel collar. I've cut above the fitting and installed a cap so I could turn the water back on.

My question is how to fix this. Could I just run a new nipple to the exterior water spout then use a new galvanized female/female 90 then run a short 3" galvanized pipe vertically. Then attach the existing pex to the galvanized pipe witha sharkbite 1/2" pex - 12 Female pipe coupler? Then of course block and strap both side of the pipe. Will this meet building code, or are sharbites a no-no to use inside a wall?

Here is a picture of what I'm working with... It's hard to see because there's a block in the way, you can get the idea. This is an exterior wall



This is the coupler I'm thinking of using:



Are these sufficient? Or do I need to use crimp connectors???

How would your guys fix this without using special crimp tools (that I don't have???

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Old 01-18-2013, 09:28 AM   #2
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How to repair PEX


I would

1. Shut off the water and cut and drain that line.
2. Remove the wood blocking with a sawsall with hack blade.
3. Pound out the existing nipple that goes through the wall with a drift.
4. Install a new female threaded ball valve on a 1/2 inch brass nipple.
5. Slide an escutcheon over the nipple, and slide through hole from the outside.
6. Install a brass threaded L, and a short Brass Nipple. Block behind and clamp.

7. Use that shark bite you show in your picture.

Install access panel, paint to match wall. Have a beer and gloat.

PS Who went Ape Shat with the drywall saw? You start in the cell where the pipe is and go laterally till you hit a stud right and left. Sister a nailer to the stud and fix the wall. You don't need a Nuc when an M80 will suffice. You made a lot of unnecessary work for yourself, or somebody did.

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Last edited by jagans; 01-18-2013 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 01-18-2013, 09:58 AM   #3
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How to repair PEX


Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans View Post
I would

1. Shut off the water and cut and drain that line.
2. Remove the wood blocking with a sawsall with hack blade.
3. Pound out the existing nipple that goes through the wall with a drift.
4. Install a new female threaded ball valve on a 1/2 inch brass nipple.
5. Slide an escutcheon over the nipple, and slide through hole from the outside.
6. Install a brass threaded L, and a short Brass Nipple. Block behind and clamp.

7. Use that shark bite you show in your picture.

Install access panel, paint to match wall. Have a beer and gloat.

PS Who went Ape Shat with the drywall saw? You start in the cell where the pipe is and go laterally till you hit a stud right and left. Sister a nailer to the stud and fix the wall. You don't need a Nuc when an M80 will suffice. You made a lot of unnecessary work for yourself, or somebody did.
So, you're basically saying- do it the way I explained, but with brass instead of galvanized? Is that for corrosion purposes???

I did cut the sheet rock. I originally just cut the hole in the one stud bay where the leak was, but the insurance adjuster came out and used a moisture meter (It was a good size water leak- 60 sq feet of carpet pad needs to be replaced. He said their was moisture in the 2 stud bays on either side. So, for piece of mine, I cut into the two adjacent ones to pull the insulation and check how bad it was. It ended up not being that bad at all. The insulation was barely moist. But now I have a fan on the open bays drying them out. How is this a bad thing??? The sill plate was saturated and had standing water on top of it. If you look closely, I cut up to the stud on the left. I'll scab in a nailer for that. No biggie! The bay on the right had a big piece of all thread from the slab to a plate for shear stopping my cut to the next stud over. The next stud is just an inch or two over. I'll probably cut over to it to have a nailer on the left. I plan on screwing 1x nailers around the whole patch. What the difference in replacing one stud bay worth of rock vs 3??? It was for piece of mind for me. I just wanted to make sure I could dry everything out and not have a mold issue down the road.
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:00 AM   #4
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How to repair PEX


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I would



Install access panel, paint to match wall. Have a beer and gloat.
What purpose would the access panel provide??? Wouldn't it look silly??
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Old 01-18-2013, 10:30 AM   #5
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How to repair PEX


Quote:
Originally Posted by mopowers View Post
I had a 90* copper (or Brass-not sure) fitting crack where it meets a galvanized pipe nipple that goes to the an outside hose bib. It's on an exterior wall and is connector to pex with a steel collar. I've cut above the fitting and installed a cap so I could turn the water back on.

My question is how to fix this. Could I just run a new nipple to the exterior water spout then use a new galvanized female/female 90 then run a short 3" galvanized pipe vertically. Then attach the existing pex to the galvanized pipe witha sharkbite 1/2" pex - 12 Female pipe coupler? Then of course block and strap both side of the pipe. Will this meet building code, or are sharbites a no-no to use inside a wall?



Are these sufficient? Or do I need to use crimp connectors???

How would your guys fix this without using special crimp tools (that I don't have???
Your galvanized method will work fine. I have seen sharkbites used in all locations too.
As an alternative, you could install a frost proof bib with a long shaft. It might get to the location of the 90.
And if your going to use one shark bite- make it two. A coupling and a male adapter into the 90- span between them with pex
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:03 AM   #6
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How to repair PEX


1. Yes corrosion resistance. You could sweat copper if you are capable. Iron Pipe? Not for me, especially when connecting to a brass collar.

2. You are correct, get rid of wet for Peace of Mind.

3. Spray in those cavities with bleach and water for more Peace of Mind.

4. Access panel look silly? I guess that's a matter of opinion, but it would not bother me to know I could access that fitting. Functional things don't bug me.

5. You will need a valve with a bleeder inboard en route to this sill cock for service and winter purge.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:09 AM   #7
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How to repair PEX


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Originally Posted by TheEplumber View Post
Your galvanized method will work fine. I have seen sharkbites used in all locations too.
As an alternative, you could install a frost proof bib with a long shaft. It might get to the location of the 90.
And if your going to use one shark bite- make it two. A coupling and a male adapter into the 90- span between them with pex
If I did that, how would I strap the pex??

Could I just use this and put a vertical 2x4 block flush to the osb sheeting between the studs right below where the nipple would enter the house?? That would mean the fitting would be pretty darn close to the sheetrock, right? Is that bad??



And if I used this fitting, I would just use a pex coupler on top and connect the two fittings with a short piece of pex??? I just assumed pipe nipples are a better joint than sharkbite fittings. Are they???

Last edited by mopowers; 01-18-2013 at 11:14 AM.
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Old 01-18-2013, 11:12 AM   #8
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How to repair PEX


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Originally Posted by jagans View Post

5. You will need a valve with a bleeder inboard en route to this sill cock for service and winter purge.
Thanks so much for the input. I've never heard of this. Can you explain. Are these the things they thread on the end of the sill cock that make the squealing noise??

FYI- the house is 3 years old... And I'm in CA, so we don't get very many frost days. This just happened to be the one hose bib I failed to insulate on the outside. Go figure...
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Old 01-18-2013, 01:13 PM   #9
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How to repair PEX


one last question...

Can you use regular galvanized pipe clamps on brass pipe nipples??

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Old 01-18-2013, 11:14 PM   #10
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How to repair PEX


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Originally Posted by mopowers View Post
one last question...

Can you use regular galvanized pipe clamps on brass pipe nipples??


?????
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Old 01-19-2013, 05:33 AM   #11
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How to repair PEX


Quote:
Originally Posted by mopowers View Post
one last question...

Can you use regular galvanized pipe clamps on brass pipe nipples??
I wouldn't. Dissimilar metals touching is a recipe for galvanic corrosion.

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