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Old 01-30-2013, 10:13 PM   #16
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I have had to sweat a coupling on, only I would do it from the inside of the coupling. How well do those pullers work?

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Old 01-31-2013, 05:48 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by jkk View Post
Cut what off?

Disregard no answer.
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No Warranty Means- If it breaks in half you get to keep both halves.

Last edited by COLDIRON; 01-31-2013 at 05:51 AM. Reason: Change text
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Old 08-30-2015, 10:54 AM   #18
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How to Remove a compression ferrule without the proper tool


I woke up to a near disaster this morning that I had to solve without access to the proper tools. The hot water shutoff to my washer had failed because of a crack in the compression nut. I needed to remove the nut and the ferrule, preferably without opening the wall or cutting the pipe.

This thread gave me guidance in that E-Plumber said it could be done and that there was a tool to do it. But I don't have an official "ferrule removal tool" nor any way to get one at 5:00 on Sunday morning.

I tried and failed to gently twist the ferrule off with a pair of water pump pliers.

Next I used a grinding wheel on a dremel tool to grind a slot in the failed compression nut on the opposite side of the crack. It came off the pipe in two neat halves and I was able to see that the compression nut had been over tightened, resulting in a stress crack that had gradually grown until it failed early this morning.

Then I used the dremel to grind a groove in the ferrule in the axial direction, taking care to NOT grind all the way through to the copper pipe. When I had a good groove, I put a screwdriver in the groove and gently twisted. THis caused the remaining thin layer of brass to stretch enough that I was able to gently and carefully push my awl into the space between the pipe and the ferrule. From that point a bit of twisting and prying broke the ferrule and I was able to then cap off the pipe with a shark bite fitting from my junk box.

Now I have it mostly back together and am able to do laundry, using cold water only. Tomorrow, I can go to town and buy a new hot shut off and I will be back in business.
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Old 08-30-2015, 01:14 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by ctdahle View Post
I woke up to a near disaster this morning that I had to solve without access to the proper tools. The hot water shutoff to my washer had failed because of a crack in the compression nut. I needed to remove the nut and the ferrule, preferably without opening the wall or cutting the pipe.

This thread gave me guidance in that E-Plumber said it could be done and that there was a tool to do it. But I don't have an official "ferrule removal tool" nor any way to get one at 5:00 on Sunday morning.

I tried and failed to gently twist the ferrule off with a pair of water pump pliers.

Next I used a grinding wheel on a dremel tool to grind a slot in the failed compression nut on the opposite side of the crack. It came off the pipe in two neat halves and I was able to see that the compression nut had been over tightened, resulting in a stress crack that had gradually grown until it failed early this morning.

Then I used the dremel to grind a groove in the ferrule in the axial direction, taking care to NOT grind all the way through to the copper pipe. When I had a good groove, I put a screwdriver in the groove and gently twisted. THis caused the remaining thin layer of brass to stretch enough that I was able to gently and carefully push my awl into the space between the pipe and the ferrule. From that point a bit of twisting and prying broke the ferrule and I was able to then cap off the pipe with a shark bite fitting from my junk box.

Now I have it mostly back together and am able to do laundry, using cold water only. Tomorrow, I can go to town and buy a new hot shut off and I will be back in business.
Good job. Sure hope the new ferrule works out for you on the original tubing surface if you go that route.


Who ever installed that didn't follow the one round after all slack is removed instructions for the initial make up or the nut was a defective. I keep plumber's grease for those jobs too. Grease, isn't a requirement but things slide a little better with lube.

Last edited by SeniorSitizen; 08-30-2015 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 08-30-2015, 04:04 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by SeniorSitizen View Post
Good job. Sure hope the new ferrule works out for you on the original tubing surface if you go that route.


Who ever installed that didn't follow the one round after all slack is removed instructions for the initial make up or the nut was a defective. I keep plumber's grease for those jobs too. Grease, isn't a requirement but things slide a little better with lube.
Thank you Senior for the vote of affirmation. I drove (30 miles) into town with the hope that the one hardware store in the area that might be open on Sunday might have the right part.

They had a 1/2" boiler drain valve that would fit the pipe, in a sweat solder version. I could have waited until tomorrow and driven into the bigger town where there is a plumbing supply house, but I had the same thought as you about trying to make a compression fitting work on the old pipe. Sweat solder is more reliable anyway I figure.

I didn't have the official shark bite clip to pull off the shark bite cap...neither did the little hardware store, so I milled one on the drill press from a scrap of rock maple, using a 1/2" forstner bit and a coping saw to make a facsimile of the c shaped "demounting clip". Worked a treat. Off came the cap.

I growled a bit when I discovered that the previous monkey hadn't bothered to de-burr the inside of the pipe. Should have noticed that this morning but gimme a break, I made the temporary repair in the dark with a flashlight. Toyed with the idea of tearing down the cold side just to check, but the cold side just has a nice patina whereas the hotside was dripping with stalagtites, indicating an oozing leak that has been worsening for a while. I elected to leave sleeping dogs alone.

Anyway, I deburred the pipe, shined it up nice and anointed it with flux. Then I fired up the torch and sweated on the new fitting. Used up a bit of my remaining stash of Dutch Boy solder, vintage 1972. Yeah, it's got some lead in it, but nobody is drinking out of the washing machine, and I just can't get the hang of sweat soldering with the lead free stuff when the solder has to wick "uphill".

Now I am washing up the towels I had used to dam up the water to keep it out of the rest of the house.
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Old 10-01-2015, 07:26 AM   #21
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Hi all,

I have 3/8 in. OD copper tubing running from my stop valve to my kitchen faucet. It's connected to the stop valve with a compression fitting. How do I remove a ferrule from the 3/8 in. tubing? All the ferrule pullers I've found only work on 1/2 in. nominal copper tubing.

Is the best approach simply to cut the tubing above the ferrule?

Thanks!
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Old 10-01-2015, 08:55 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by FrogFan View Post
Hi all,

I have 3/8 in. OD copper tubing running from my stop valve to my kitchen faucet. It's connected to the stop valve with a compression fitting. How do I remove a ferrule from the 3/8 in. tubing? All the ferrule pullers I've found only work on 1/2 in. nominal copper tubing.

Is the best approach simply to cut the tubing above the ferrule?

Thanks!
If there is enough length remaining after cutting above the ferrule by all means cut it. If not replace the tubing.

When installing a new ferrule, make the fitting up then remove it. If you can pull the ferrule off without a puller it hasn't been made up right and will usually leak, possibly not today but some day when you are asleep or not at home.

When installing a new ferrule tighten the nut 1 round after all slack is removed at finger tight. When re-making a ferruled fitting up the nut will quickly tighten because the tubing and ferrule have already been swaged at initial make up and snug is all that's usually required.

A dab of plumber's grease or lube oil on threads and ferrule never hurts but isn't required to my knowledge.
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:12 AM   #23
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Thanks for the quick response, SeniorSitizen!

There appears to be plenty of 3/8 in. tubing under the sink. I'll re-confirm that and if there is, I'll cut it off above the existing ferrule. I'll also use some plumber's grease per your suggestion and make sure I only tighten one turn once I finger tighten the new connection.
Quote:
When installing a new ferrule, make the fitting up then remove it.
I'm not sure I understand this. Once I cut the tubing, I'll put the new nut, then the new ferrule onto the copper tubing, then press the tubing into the new stop valve and tighten per your instructions. Am I missing something?

Thanks again!
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:32 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by FrogFan View Post
I'm not sure I understand this. Once I cut the tubing, I'll put the new nut, then the new ferrule onto the copper tubing, then press the tubing into the new stop valve and tighten per your instructions. Am I missing something?

Thanks again!
After making the nut up 1 round on the new ferrule, remove the nut, tubing and ferrule from the valve/fitting and try pulling the ferrule off with your fingers. If you can't pull it off it is set as it should be.

I forgot one step. After the tubing is pushed into the valve until it stops and the nut is run up finger tight, mark the tubing just behind the nut. I like a felt tip pin for my old eyes in darker places. This is to be certain the tubing hasn't slipped back out of the valve from spring tension of the tubing while concentrating on tightening.

If people not in the know would always do this until they are convinced the 1 round of tightening always works on copper they wouldn't have leaks at that point.

After initial make up that fitting can be removed and re-used as many times as necessary and even on a different valve most of the time.
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Old 10-01-2015, 09:51 AM   #25
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I've got it! Thanks for your help!
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Old 10-01-2015, 06:42 PM   #26
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I've pulled them with no problem either. Our used a mini hawk saw and a flat blade screw driver to finish breaking them off.
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Old 10-01-2015, 07:51 PM   #27
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Another tip.

If attempting to make up a ferrule fitting in an awkward location such as maybe under sink inside a cabinet or behind a toilet etc.

If you have an extra valve or other fitting that size put it in a vise. After you have determined tubing length, bends and the shape it needs to be, make up the new ferrules on each end of the tubing at the vise . Now when you get into that difficult position about 99.9 percent of the difficult part is already done.
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Old 10-01-2015, 08:20 PM   #28
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Another great tip. I'm going to try to avoid disconnecting the tubing at the faucet, though. That means I'll have to make it up for the valve under the sink. If this were a brand new installation, I'd sure do it your way though.
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Old 10-02-2015, 04:19 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by ctdahle View Post


Then I used the dremel to grind a groove in the ferrule in the axial direction, taking care to NOT grind all the way through to the copper pipe. When I had a good groove, I put a screwdriver in the groove and gently twisted. THis caused the remaining thin layer of brass to stretch enough that I was able to gently and carefully push my awl into the space between the pipe and the ferrule. From that point a bit of twisting and prying broke the ferrule and I was able to then cap off the pipe with a shark bite fitting from my junk box.

That's how I do it, though, I use a small hacksaw. Cut a groove, flat screw driver, ferrule snaps open. I've replaced most of my angle stops using this method, and I've been able to successfully reuse the stub-out each time
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Old 10-02-2015, 05:41 PM   #30
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Do folks usually try to re-use the ferrules and test for leaks or just replace them as a matter of course? I've seen recommendations both ways as I've done my research.

Sure would save some time to re-use what was already there, but now I know how to do it right if I need to!

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