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How to patch holes in shower enclosure when going from 2-handle faucet to single?

26K views 27 replies 13 participants last post by  RonVan 
#1 ·
I want to convert our old two handle shower and tub faucet to single handle. The shower wall is a white fiberglass (I think it's fiberglass ... looks like thick plastic) enclosure.

I know they sell remodeling cover plates to hide the holes from a two handle system, but problem is, the two handles are too close vertically to the faucet, so a typical remodeling cover won't work. That is unless I can find a cover that is more rectangular shaped, and not as rounded on the corners as all the plates I've seen, which won't quite cover the holes.

Assuming there are no such plates available, what's the best way to fill the two handle holes in the fiberglass enclosure? I see they have shower patch kits for enclosures do those work well? I would need some kind of backing, however. Or is there a way to buy some kind of waterproof plastic material that I could epoxy to the back of the enclosure wall, and then maybe fill in and level off with the shower patch stuff?

I suppose I could use something like Bondo, but then I'd have to paint it too.

Anyone do this before and what do you recommend?
 
#5 ·
#3 ·
Have a piece of 1/2" Corian cut large enough to cover the old holes. Have it decorative with a fancy edge (ogee maybe). Epoxy and screw in place from the back. Cut new hole as required.
 
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#7 ·
I'll have to try to find someone offering that service in my area. Haven't ever heard of a company doing that. Any idea what they might charge to cover/fill two holes?

Anyone ever try the tub/shower patch kits you can buy at the home improvement stores? Wondering if that would give me similar results as what the pros would do, or if it's tough to get it to look good?
 
#16 ·
Well, I have to tell you, I've been stressing over this for a while. I plan on remodeling this bath but that won't be for a while. I the meantime, I can't stand the old sterling three handle faucet. I rebuilt the faucet with a kit that included new stems, seats, and washers but it still isn't very good. It's hard to get the temperature right and then if someone turns a faucet on anywhere in the house, it changes the shower temp.

I installed a thermostatic Hansgrohe faucet in our old house and that was wonderful but I'm thinking of trying a less expensive pressure balancing faucet now in this bath to last until I can get around to the remodel. I was trying to figure out how to get access to everything and then patch it up to look nice but this is a perfect solution! I can't believe how excited I am about this.

I was talking to my wife just yesterday and told her that we were going to have to move her wire rack that holds her shampoos and hangs from the shower head. I told her I want to move the new faucet up where it's supposed to be and the rack would be in the way. She was sad about this but understood. This niche idea takes care of that too! She will have a place for her shampoos and I will have plenty of access to do the work.
 
#21 ·
I was wondering if anyone knows the answer to this; The instructions for a Moen tub/shower mixing valve (and many other ones similar to this one) that has a diverter valve on the tub spout gives minimum and maximum dimensions for the distance between the tub spout and the mixer valve.

Rectangle Slope Font Parallel Diagram


It's hard to see in the diagram above but the minimum distance between the tub spout and the mixing valve is 6" and the maximum is 11". I imagine that when the water is turned on (valve opened) that water flows down to the tub spout but also water flows up toward the shower head. Gravity keeps the water from coming out of the shower head until the tub spout diverter valve is closed and forces water to go all the way up to the shower head.

In the diagram, they have 46" between the mixer valve and the shower head. If you maintained the 46", would it matter if there was 15" between the tub spout and the mixer valve?
 
#22 ·
Though I've never tested it, I would assume the reason for the 11" Max is to provide sufficient back pressure to keep the spout diverter closed and force the water to go through the showerhead. Raising it higher may not allow it to close completely and leak through the spout or possibly not stay closed at all
 
#23 ·
That sounds reasonable. I looked at my (temporary) project this afternoon and 13” is max I can go without making my access hole bigger and if I go 11”, it will make life easier all the way round. So… I’ll follow instructions and go with 11”. As a side note, Delta allows up to 18” between the spout and mixing valve. Delta must have different geometry.
 
#25 ·
I had to take some time off from projects but I finally got around to the shower valve install.

i cut an access hole behind the valves. I bought a plastic access hole cover from Amazon


Wood Fixture Natural material Tints and shades Rectangle


I cut the galvanized pipe going up to the shower arm and was able to unscrew the faucet fittings from the galvanized pipes coming up from the crawlspace.



Automotive tire Gas Auto part Cylinder Bumper

The union fittings to the old faucet had to be scored to get them off. 52 years of corrosion!


I then put shutoff valves on these supply lines so I could turn the water back on.
Automotive tire Wood Tread Art Tints and shades

I cut the hole through the tile for the new faucet and cutout the Sheetrock to work on the shower arm.

Property Plumbing fixture House Flooring Floor

Picture frame Building Plumbing fixture Interior design Flooring

As it turns out, this tile (installed 52 years ago) was pink. It was painted white but it’s amazing how well it holds up! I primed the area around the holes that were still pink and added a top coat later.

Rectangle Gas Tints and shades Wood Fixture


Hooked up the Pex and secured the new valve

Plumbing fixture Bathroom Sink Tap Interior design

I used faucet hole covers over the old faucet holes. Leak tested okay. Caulking should be dry by shower time tonight.
 

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