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Homerepairguy 12-08-2010 03:53 PM

How to handle bathtub drain when leveling floor
 
In another thread I asked about toilet flange extenders when I level the floor in our master bathroom. The bathtub is further past the toilet so the leveling compound will be thicker there. Probably about 1" thick at the tub drain.

How should I extend the drain to fit the higher bathtub?

TheEplumber 12-08-2010 06:56 PM

Leave the drain attached to the tub and lengthen the tailpiece on the waste and overflow above the trap

Homerepairguy 12-08-2010 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 548232)
Leave the drain attached to the tub and lengthen the tailpiece on the waste and overflow above the trap

Our home is on a concrete slab. The toilet flange is cast iron so I suspect the tub drain will be cast iron also. I have not removed the tub yet.

When I view a tub installation video on youtube, I see a flange with internal threads. A gasket is installed on the flange, the tub is placed in position, then an upper flange with gasket is threaded into the lower flange and screwed tight.

So what is a tailpiece and how should I extend it?

Thanks,
HRG

TheEplumber 12-08-2010 07:50 PM

1 Attachment(s)
This is typically what your tub drain looks like. I install all of it prior to the tub install. You should have a p trap in the slab I would think you need to access the assembly through the endwall below the valve.
So, install a new waste and overflow on your tub, slid tub into place and join it to the trap.

Homerepairguy 12-08-2010 08:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 548271)
This is typically what your tub drain looks like. I install all of it prior to the tub install. You should have a p trap in the slab I would think you need to access the assembly through the endwall below the valve.
So, install a new waste and overflow on your tub, slid tub into place and join it to the trap.

Thanks so much for taking the time to post that picture!

Stupid me! I forgot that I had installed an access panel in the exterior wall of our house right next to the double wall between our back-to-back bathrooms. It's been years since I opened that panel. Fortunately the access hole is on the master bath side which is the tub I'll be replacing.

I just opened that panel and see that the overflow and tub drain matches the picture that you posted. All pipes are 1-1/2" and appear to be made of brass. There's a big rectangular hole in the slab and the the drain pipes for both tubs go down into the dirt. So the trap must be buried in the dirt below that slab.

Right below where the tub drain joins the overflow pipe there are two union nuts with a pipe between them. I guess that's what you've called a tail piece. I can easily buy a longer tail pipe and raise both the overflow and tub drain connections.

Hope this helps others as much as you've helped me understand how the tub drain system is connected.

BTW, the center of the existing drain pipe is 14.5" away from the side of the existing tub that butts against the wall. Fortunately the replacement tub that I just bought also has that 14.5" dimension. Do all tubs have the drain 14.5" from the edge of the tub on the tile side or was I just lucky?

Thanks,
HRG

TheEplumber 12-08-2010 11:02 PM

Super! Glad its working out so far. Funny about the 14.5 inches, I've never really checked that before because I build the trap arm after the tubs set (most house here are crawlers or multilevel). I do know that some tubs are deeper then others though and require a longer length on the overflow. When you reset your tub I would advise a new w&o assembly. Do your research, theres a lot of models available. I like the toe trip or pop up type (watco 601-PP-ABS-CP) that are glued together using sch 40 pvc or abs pipe. They are economical, easy to assemble and have no moving parts to adjust. Keep us posted

Homerepairguy 12-09-2010 01:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 548360)
Super! Glad its working out so far. Funny about the 14.5 inches, I've never really checked that before because I build the trap arm after the tubs set (most house here are crawlers or multilevel). I do know that some tubs are deeper then others though and require a longer length on the overflow. When you reset your tub I would advise a new w&o assembly. Do your research, theres a lot of models available. I like the toe trip or pop up type (watco 601-PP-ABS-CP) that are glued together using sch 40 pvc or abs pipe. They are economical, easy to assemble and have no moving parts to adjust. Keep us posted

More info that I wasn't aware of.. :)

Googled toe trip and, for others also not aware of those types of stoppers, found this website with great descriptions:
http://www.plumbingsupply.com/how-to...n-stopper.html

So how do the toe touch or pop up stoppers actually work? Press down with the toe and it stops, press again and it pops up? If so, there must be a spring and a some sort of catch right?

A LOT better than the lever operated stopper. I'll definitely be changing to one of those stoppers.
Thanks!
HRG

TheEplumber 12-09-2010 07:23 PM

I gotta warn you though. The toughest part of resetting a tub like yours will be attaching the W&O to the trap. You've got little room, tough access and different types of pipes. Plan ahead.

braindead 12-10-2010 04:31 PM

>>>I just bought also has that 14.5" dimension. Do all tubs have the drain 14.5" from the edge of the tub on the tile side or was I just lucky?<<<

You got lucky! You can never count on that measurment being the same

Homerepairguy 12-11-2010 04:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by braindead (Post 549182)
>>>I just bought also has that 14.5" dimension. Do all tubs have the drain 14.5" from the edge of the tub on the tile side or was I just lucky?<<<

You got lucky! You can never count on that measurment being the same

Good to know since we have another tub that might be replaced in the future.

Thanks,
HRG


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