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-   -   How does this plumbing look? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/how-does-plumbing-look-185247/)

Red Squirrel 08-13-2013 07:41 PM

How does this plumbing look?
 
My first time doing plumbing involving more than a couple minor runs.

I'm sorta nervous about how some places are rather stiff and it was hard getting the lines to go from the ceiling to the wall as I could not really crimp inside that small space so had to do it ahead of time, which put lot of stress on the pipes while trying to get it in.

Nothing leaks and it works. Is there any chance that something randomly lets go if not done right or has too much stress? Or am I just being paranoid? Plumbing actually does scare me more than electrical but I still want to conquer it myself. :laughing:

http://gal.redsquirrel.me/thumbs/lrg-1822-dsc05269.JPG

http://gal.redsquirrel.me/thumbs/lrg-1826-dsc05270.JPG

http://gal.redsquirrel.me/thumbs/lrg-1824-dsc05271.JPG

http://gal.redsquirrel.me/thumbs/lrg-1828-dsc05272.JPG

http://gal.redsquirrel.me/thumbs/lrg-1827-dsc05275.JPG

http://gal.redsquirrel.me/thumbs/lrg-1823-dsc05276.JPG

http://gal.redsquirrel.me/thumbs/lrg-1821-dsc05277.JPG


Does this plumbing look ok or should I do anything differently? Hoping it's fine, and that I'm just worrying for nothing. It's been on for a while now with no leaks.

Also I'll be getting the walls spray foamed. I'll make sure the pipes arn't completely covered as to ensure they stay on the hot side, but is there any danger if the insulation gets on it, such as weird reactions with the plastic or something?

joecaption 08-13-2013 07:54 PM

Not in love with those style valves or how you stubbed them out of the wall.
Are those full flow valves?
The way you stubbed them out there's no easy way to replace the valve if it leaks.
I would have ran them to a washer box so I'd have a place for the drain and the valves that would look better.
Or at least used a Pex copper stub out.
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products...s.asp?pid=3226

Red Squirrel 08-13-2013 08:02 PM

TBH I was hoping to find something that would be easier to mount like some kind of faucet attachment or something, but it was the only thing I could find.

Guess worse case scenario if ever I do need to replace them, there is probably enough room to crimp a union and another piece of pex to work off of.

How is this normally done? Looking at my toilet and sink upstairs (done by a pro) it's similar, except there's no piece of wood or anything, but I wonder how the drywall would have been installed... guess it was done after the toilet and sink were put in, so it would have been easier. Guess I could have done that too, just let it loose and remove the sink and washer to put the drywall and just slide it into a hole. I always have that option when it does come to putting the drywall in, I can just remove that piece of wood.

Red Squirrel 08-13-2013 08:12 PM

On a side note, do those outlets need to be on a GFCI breaker?

SPS-1 08-13-2013 08:34 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Probably need a few of these on the studs where you have lines running thru them.
(.png seems to have a problem uploading, but .jpg seems to upload readily)

TheEplumber 08-13-2013 09:04 PM

1 Attachment(s)
You should isolate the pipes off the wood when going through the studs to reduce wear and noise transfer.

Also, stub the pex out further at the stops for future repair.

These washer boxes work good- should be able to get them at the box store

Red Squirrel 08-14-2013 08:29 PM

What is the proper way to isolate the pipes? For the top I shoved some foam in there, is there a better way? Everything is fairly tight. I'm also wondering, can something be TOO tight, and be a future danger? Or will the pex "get used" to the way it is and have less stress over time? I also did my best to ensure the holes don't have sharp edges by passing a chisel around to get rid of pointy bits.

When I do come to do the drywall, I may also get rid of the piece of wood, and just cut a hole in the drywall to pass the valves through, that should give about an inch of extra slack, so maybe 2 inches total.

TheEplumber 08-14-2013 08:37 PM

Stick some of these in the stud holes- anchor them with some screws.
Your pipe will need to expand/contract a little. These help protect the pipe.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/cata...gry=Search+All

Javiles 08-21-2013 09:21 PM

I understand that varmints love that plastic stuff.

TheEplumber 08-21-2013 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Javiles (Post 1232504)
I understand that varmints love that plastic stuff.

Termites love wood too, but we still mill lumber :jester:

Javiles 08-22-2013 09:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 1232527)
Termites love wood too, but we still mill lumber :jester:

Oh a wise guy yeah!! yuck yuck yuck,:brows:

HitLines 08-28-2013 10:56 AM

Some of these bend supports would have saved you a little time and quite a few crimps:
http://i.imgur.com/ysnhhIO.jpg

http://www.pexsupply.com/Wirsbo-Upon...port-2128000-p

diyer111 08-28-2013 11:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HitLines (Post 1235312)
Some of these bend supports would have saved you a little time and quite a few crimps:
http://i.imgur.com/ysnhhIO.jpg

http://www.pexsupply.com/Wirsbo-Upon...port-2128000-p

also would have provided slightly better water flow/ pressure... nothing wrong with 90 degree elbows though. worked for copper for years.

rossfingal 08-28-2013 03:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red Squirrel (Post 1229007)
On a side note, do those outlets need to be on a GFCI breaker?

Not a bad idea! :)

Oso954 08-28-2013 05:57 PM

Quote:

On a side note, do those outlets need to be on a GFCI breaker?
Not only a good idea, but may be required. How big is your laundry sink ?
I'm fairly certain that the Ontario Electric code requires any receptacle within 1.5m of the sink edge to be GFCI protected.

But it would be a good idea to do it, regardless of the distance.


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