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Old 08-25-2012, 01:07 PM   #1
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HOW TO CHECK IF YOU NEED A NEW WATER HEATER? - before it IMPLODES!!


OK. I bought my home 10 years ago and I'm assuming my water heater has to be at least from the late 80s early 90s at best. I always see those shows (Sopranos, eg.) where the water heater implodes from the bottom and the basement is full of water and everything in it is ruined (not funny). Anyways, yes, the short answer is, get a new one! I know. But is there a way to check the bottom (i'm assuming its the bottom?) for rust? to prevent this monstrosity from happening? HELP! yes, i'm a newbie.


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Old 08-25-2012, 01:34 PM   #2
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HOW TO CHECK IF YOU NEED A NEW WATER HEATER? - before it IMPLODES!!


They explode not implode.
There is no way to check the bottom.
That one's old enought that I would concider replacing it.
If there's old style globe or gate valves for shut offs or not shut off on the cold water supply line it would be a good time to change it for a ball valve so you know it's going to shut off when needed.
Always a good idea to set the heat in a drain pan with a drain to the outside so if it does leak there's no damage inside. There sold right next to the heaters.

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Old 08-25-2012, 02:36 PM   #3
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HOW TO CHECK IF YOU NEED A NEW WATER HEATER? - before it IMPLODES!!


If you have a pressure tank above the water heater then the chances of a sudden big leak are drastically decreased. Rather any leak will probablydrip slowly at first.
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Old 08-25-2012, 03:55 PM   #4
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HOW TO CHECK IF YOU NEED A NEW WATER HEATER? - before it IMPLODES!!


I suggest you write down the serial number that is on the tank. Also write down the manufacturer. You can look up the exact age of the tank on google. Search for water heater age + serial number. The age is usually in the first 4 digits on the tank.

If your tank is older than 10 years you may want to start thinking about replacing it. If it is older than 15 years & you want to do a DIY job - go ahead. If it is older than 20 years you should make it a priority.

One thing to consider is draining the tank. You need to shut off the power to the tank, attach a hose to your drain valve at the bottom of the tank, route the hose to a drain, slowly open the drain valve, then open the pressure relief valve ontop of the tank. If you see a lot of sediment build-up and rust exiting the tank...dirty water for more than the first 1-2 gallons drained from the tank consider looking at a pre-emptive replacments. I only recommend doing this if you have a brass drain valve - don't do this if you have a plastic drain valve on the bottom of the tank. Plastic drain valves are crappy quality - if you see one - you can be certain that you have a piece of junk equipment.
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