DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum

DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum (http://www.diychatroom.com/)
-   Plumbing (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/)
-   -   How can I cut a 3" thick steel pipe? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/how-can-i-cut-3-thick-steel-pipe-9967/)

handbanana 07-17-2007 10:09 PM

How can I cut a 3" thick steel pipe?
 
or do I have to rent a machine/hire a handyman ?

slakker 07-17-2007 10:39 PM

A recip saw with a good metal blade or you can rent a chain pipe cutter (snap cutter) from the HD... that would do the trick...

Mike Swearingen 07-17-2007 11:18 PM

A snap cutter will work on cast iron, but not galvanized. The recip saw is one way for both, and a pipe cutter will work on galvanized.
You should be able to rent what you need.
Good Luck!
Mike

KUIPORNG 07-18-2007 11:29 AM

I have a heavy metal band saw which I bought around $50 bucks from Ebay... it can cut anything metal... the problem is it is so heavy taking up my variable garage space... but I am still keeping it... to face once a few month challenge like yours...

bigMikeB 07-19-2007 07:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by handbanana (Post 53350)
or do I have to rent a machine/hire a handyman ?

You could try and borrow a pipecutter large enough or use a grit blade in a circular saw. The blade is gonna be the cheapest.

comp1911 07-20-2007 10:10 AM

Pipe fitters like to use a 4.5" grinder with cut off wheel or a portaband band saw.

MechanicalDVR 07-21-2007 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by comp1911 (Post 53715)
Pipe fitters like to use a 4.5" grinder with cut off wheel or a portaband band saw.


Pipefitters would cut it with a torch if it was to be welded or a portaband or chop saw if it was going to be threaded, a 4" grinder would take way too much effort and time.

comp1911 07-23-2007 08:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MechanicalDVR (Post 53929)
Pipefitters would cut it with a torch if it was to be welded or a portaband or chop saw if it was going to be threaded, a 4" grinder would take way too much effort and time.

Most of the pipe I see cut is sch 10 316SS so no torch there. On carbon steel, I've still seen them using a grinder. Must be area dependent.

Also if the OP has a grinder he could use it.

MechanicalDVR 07-23-2007 09:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by comp1911 (Post 54119)
Most of the pipe I see cut is sch 10 316SS so no torch there. On carbon steel, I've still seen them using a grinder. Must be area dependent.

Also if the OP has a grinder he could use it.


You use a grinder to make the bevel on carbon steel for welding. If I saw any fitter cutting pipe with a 4'' grinder on a job of mine he would be back on the bench the following day.

bjr23 07-26-2007 04:03 PM

bjr23
 
This is the richest bunch I ever wrote to with Going renting fancy machines. Okay speed I'll give you that. But if your a poor boy like me, a good blade in a regular hand hacksaw. Take some time and keep going around a little at a time so as to make a straight cut and you'll get thru it. I live outside of town so travel/gas is large expense, so the truck stays parked most of the time, so most things here on the place have to be done with old manual tools or else it just sits. bjr23

slakker 07-26-2007 04:36 PM

I've always attacked these situations with a recip with metal blade, and really interested that grinders are preferred by pipefitters. I'm not questioning this, but wondering if someone can elaborate on the benefits of this technique...

MechanicalDVR 07-26-2007 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by slakker (Post 54680)
I've always attacked these situations with a recip with metal blade, and really interested that grinders are preferred by pipefitters. I'm not questioning this, but wondering if someone can elaborate on the benefits of this technique...

Well on 3" pipe you would probably kill one wheel and wish you used a portaband......

fireguy 07-28-2007 12:00 AM

You have not given us enough information. I don't think hte pipe is 3 " thick, but is 3" diameter pipe. if the pipe was to be cut in place, I might try my pipe cutter, if there is enough swing room. If not, I would get my SawZall and the pipe attachment. When done, I would use the T-square to make sure the face was square before threading the pipe. If the face was not square, I would get the grinder and clean up the face. Then I would ream the pipe inside and use a file on the outside. Again, depending on the space, I would use the 700 threader or groover, in place. I have threaded 2.5, once, in place w/my manual threader. If space was too tight, I would think about removing the pipe so I could work on it in the vise.

Actually, it sounds as if you might be better to hire a plumber.

fireguy

bigMikeB 07-28-2007 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fireguy (Post 54879)
You have not given us enough information. I don't think hte pipe is 3 " thick, but is 3" diameter pipe. if the pipe was to be cut in place, I might try my pipe cutter, if there is enough swing room. If not, I would get my SawZall and the pipe attachment. When done, I would use the T-square to make sure the face was square before threading the pipe. If the face was not square, I would get the grinder and clean up the face. Then I would ream the pipe inside and use a file on the outside. Again, depending on the space, I would use the 700 threader or groover, in place. I have threaded 2.5, once, in place w/my manual threader. If space was too tight, I would think about removing the pipe so I could work on it in the vise.

Actually, it sounds as if you might be better to hire a plumber.

fireguy

What kind of threader do you have have will thread 2.5" in place, just curious.

fireguy 07-28-2007 11:11 AM

700 Ridgid, go to Rigid's site to see pictures. We can thread 1"to2 ", adaptors are available for larger sizes. We do not thread over 2". 2" may be grooved or threaded.

3/8" to 1 " we normally use the OOR and manually thread the pipe.

Fireguy


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:52 AM.