Hot Water Heater

Pleesehelpme

Hello all,
Along the side of our hot water heater is a pipe that recently started dripping and seems to be getting worse as days go by. Can someone tell me what this pipe is for and what needs to be done to stop this drip?

Any info is greatly appreciated

Bob

Lightfoot

a picture would sure help
Is it connected to the water heater?
How old it the water heater?
Sounds like it may be the pressure relief valve and we can guess all day,
but until we see it we don't know for sure

danpik

Sounds like the Temperature/pressure relief valve. The will leak as time goes by. Whatever you do, DO NOT plug it off, get it replaced. Here is a link to what is posibly leaking on your tank.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

ben's plumbing

as mentioned its your temp/ pressure relief valve...either it going bad or you have an unsafe condition in your system.... you could have high pressure causing it to drip...or high temperature.

Pleesehelpme

Would releasing some of the pressure help?

ben's plumbing

thats what the valve is doing....you could start by just replacing the valve.....if that does not work may need to check pressure with guage.....

joecaption

There's only about 4, things that will cause it to leak, it's old and needs to be replaced because the seal has dryed out and cracked.

Incoming water pressure to high, are you one a well or town water? If it's a well just look on the pump gauge to see what it is. No need to be any higher then 60 PSI max.

Temperature set to high on the thermostat or the thermostat has failied. just run the water over a thermometer under the sink, there's no need for any more then 120 deg.

If there's a pressure tank on the hot water line side, the bladder may have poped. Check the pressure on the tire valve stem looking thing sticking out under a cap on the top.

Homerepairguy

As others mentioned, it sounds like the Temperature and Pressure Relief valve (T&P valve). Typically, the valve will start leaking water at 150 psi or 210 degrees when it's working correctly. Here's a link for further clarification and procedures for replacing it:

http://www.water-heater-repair-guide...liefvalve.html

Did the city do some work on your incoming water line recently? If so, they could have installed a backflow preventer valve. That would prevent excess pressure from your plumbing system from being dissipated into the city's system. (Excess pressure is created when water is heated.) In that case, you would need a thermal expansion tank in your system to prevent over pressure conditions. You can call your city's water dept and ask if a backflow preventer is installed on your home's water line.

You can check the pressure in your home's plumbing by buying a water pressure gauge and connecting it to a hose bib. Here's a link to a Watts gauge that has a red max pressure hand. The red hand will remember the highest water pressure like at night when you're sleeping.


http://www.amazon.com/Watts-DP-IWTG-...pressure+gauge

Ideally, your home's water pressure should be about 60 psi after you open a faucet to release pressure and then close it for the reading. If the pressure is higher, adjust your water pressure reducing valve (aka water pressure regulator) if you have one. --- Then, leaving the water pressure gauge on a hose bib, the red hand should not exceed about 100 psi.

The T&P valve should be manually operated at least once a year to insure that deposit build up will not hinder release of water. The water heater should be partially drained at least once a year to flush out sediment so that's a good time to manually open the valve to flush it out and then to allow air into the heater's tank for draining.

You could try manually operating your T&P valve to clear any sediment that may be trapped on the valve's seat. If you do this, turn off the cold water input valve to the heater and put a container under the bottom of the discharge pipe. Flip the lever on the T&P valve and BE CAREFUL since the water will be HOT! Residual pressure in the system will discharge water out from the T&P valve. You could then slowly open the cold water valve to allow more water to flow out from the T&P valve to flush it out. The water will still be HOT! --- Then turn off the cold water input valve, close the T&P valve and then re-open the cold water input valve to return to normal.

Sky

biggles

cycle the water heater thru it lifting the silver bar out to you..seat might have crap n it...if it continues to leak especially when the heater isn't being used then change it....HD easy DIY job let us know if are going to do it or get a plumber...takes 5 minutes to do...