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Old 05-06-2008, 06:36 AM   #16
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There is no urgency to replace the valve. Add it to your to do list. If fact, I probably wouldn't replace the valve, just the washer. If you shut off the water to the house and your pipes were drained and you still had some water coming out of the toilet valve then you might need a new washer on the main water valve as well. That is a job for a plumber because water needs to be shut off at the street and most folks do not have the tool or they are not allowed by the water co. to touch the street valve.


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Old 05-06-2008, 09:51 AM   #17
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thanks brik..its on the to do list. but thats on the back burner for now..thanks again everyone for all your help and suggestions!
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Old 05-06-2008, 06:44 PM   #18
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Here's the deal about that valve. The valve itself is not likely to burst, the supply line between the valve and the toilet tank is what everyone is concerned about. Even though some of those braided lines are labeled "no burst", I have seen them burst. Coincidentally, my company recently went to a home where one of these lines that had been installed by another plumber did burst while the homeowner was away and the damages to her home and possessions exceeded $60,000. (that's right, the comma's in the right place).

The water that continued to trickle out of the valve while you had it apart was probably just residual water in the system and that is normal. Usually, opening other faucets in the house will allow that water to drain more quickly. It would be a good idea for you to just turn the main valve off and open a couple of faucets to make sure that the water does stop running in a few minutes. If not, although it's probably not an emergency now, getting the main valve fixed could save you literally thousands of dollars if you do have a leak. It is also a good idea to find out where your water meter is located, get a $10 meter key and make sure you can get the water off that way. (Remember the lady with the $60,000 leak because the water did not get shut off.

Last of all, the compression stop you probably should replace is fairly simple. There is a brass compression ring sort of inside the stop (valve) between the big nut closest to the wall and the valve itself that gets squeezed when the nut is tightened, sealing the connection. If you decide to change the valve you will probably have to reuse this ring and the original nut (because you won't be able to just take them off) and it looks from the photos that there isn't much room to try to cut the pipe and start over. Just get a small can of pipe dope (called pipe joint compound) and spread it on the RING, not the threads, and re-tighten the nut securely while holding the valve stationary with another wrench. Then make sure the new valve is turned off and have someone else ease the water back on while you make sure your work isn't leaking. Reconnect the supply and you're done.

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