Go Back   DIY Chatroom Home Improvement Forum > Home Improvement > Plumbing

CLICK HERE AND JOIN OUR COMMUNITY TODAY...IT'S FREE!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
Old 08-13-2011, 07:25 PM   #1
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)


I have a home built in 1889. I just remodeled my upstairs bathroom only to discover that I have a big crack in the main drain pipe going vertically through the middle of the house. The 4" crack is on a Tee connection that's made of 4-inch cast iron. Some of the plumbing is exposed. About 3 feet is accessible through the attic. About 9 feet is accessible downstairs. The 2nd floor is behind the walls.
I need some experienced opinions here.

(1) HOW MUCH OF THE CAST IRON SHOULD I REPLACE?
Is it best to replace all the cast iron from the T-joint up with ABS? OR is it better to cut out just the T and replace with ABS--leaving the heavy 15 feet of cast iron above it? OR is there a better way than these ideas? OR should I just replace ALL my plumbing till I get to the city street (who knows, maybe there's more leaking under the house)?

(2) HOW SHOULD I CUT AND REMOVE THE CAST IRON?
How the heck am I going to cut out this cast iron? That stuff is heavy and there's wood around everything. This could be a fire hazard if I try to grind this off. Plus it's very, very heavy. Am I going to have to climb up on the 2nd story roof and pull this out? Should I start cutting from the middle of the pipe and ease the cut pieces down?

Any other helpful hints, please share.
Attached Thumbnails
Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)-a_-castironleak.jpg   Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)-b_-photofromback.jpg   Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)-c-right-tee.jpg  


Last edited by meandiet; 08-14-2011 at 02:22 PM.
meandiet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2011, 08:00 PM   #2
fabrk8r
 
fabrk8r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 849
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)


Use a snap cutter (chain type) made for cast iron DWV. Available at rental stores. You only need about 3/4" clearance around most of the pipe and full access for about 1/4 the diameter.

Cut out the damaged sections in a manageable size and replace with PVC and Fernco couplings or equivalent.

Have someone help and make sure the cast iron is supported. It cuts easier than you'd think and a 5' piece only weighs about 40 lbs.

__________________
"The physician can bury his mistakes, but the architect can only advise his clients to plant vines." -- Frank Lloyd Wright

Last edited by fabrk8r; 08-13-2011 at 08:04 PM.
fabrk8r is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2011, 11:15 PM   #3
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)


Yes! Thanks for that suggestion. Home Depot has the chain cutter available for rent. $11 for four hours. $15 for a day. Thanks so much.


I'm still debating how much pipe I should replace and what material to use. I'm not sure if I should replace everything from the Tee up including what pokes through the roof or if I should replace just the tee and some length of pipe with cast iron. I'm not sure how a PVC tee will hold with all that cast iron material on top of it. My house vibrates a lot.

(p.s. luv your pugs! got one myself)

Mary

I also found this video on how to use a chain cutter.
http://youtu.be/thNMNkuh59Q?t=11s

Last edited by meandiet; 08-13-2011 at 11:24 PM.
meandiet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2011, 08:57 AM   #4
fabrk8r
 
fabrk8r's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 849
Rewards Points: 500
Default

Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)


You can leave the good cast iron pipe above the repair. Support the existing cast with a clamp supported either at the floor or between the studs using a clamp made for this purpose.



That's a good video you found. Looks easy doesn't it?! I think you should have no problem with this repair. Just make sure you use good quality repair couplings.

Good luck and be safe!
__________________
"The physician can bury his mistakes, but the architect can only advise his clients to plant vines." -- Frank Lloyd Wright

Last edited by fabrk8r; 08-14-2011 at 08:59 AM.
fabrk8r is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to fabrk8r For This Useful Post:
Clutchcargo (08-14-2011)
Old 08-14-2011, 10:17 AM   #5
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: PENNSYLVANIA
Posts: 2,238
Rewards Points: 1,004
Default

Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)


The clamp is called a riser clamp that should be the first thing you do, and make sure it's the right diameter and tight it's holding all the weight.

Matter of fact than might be why the crack started in the first place.
COLDIRON is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to COLDIRON For This Useful Post:
VIPlumber (08-14-2011)
Old 08-14-2011, 10:28 AM   #6
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 1,526
Rewards Points: 1,000
Default

Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)


Off the top of my head I believe that it should be supported every 10' or so (every story/floor) on the vertical. So at least you could put a support up in the attic and first floor and that should help alleviate the strain greatly. I'm not certain how you want to tackle the still enclosed 2nd floor area though.
VIPlumber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2011, 12:21 PM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: PENNSYLVANIA
Posts: 2,238
Rewards Points: 1,004
Default

Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)


Quote:
Originally Posted by VIPlumber View Post
Off the top of my head I believe that it should be supported every 10' or so (every story/floor) on the vertical. So at least you could put a support up in the attic and first floor and that should help alleviate the strain greatly. I'm not certain how you want to tackle the still enclosed 2nd floor area though.
I would.
COLDIRON is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2011, 01:11 PM   #8
Newbie
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 5
Rewards Points: 10
Default

Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)


Wow. Great help on this forum! Thanks!

I checked Lowe's and Home Depot. Neither store stocks the clamps, but Grainger has them for $8.11 each. I will buy some tomorrow, and I'll post the results of my fix. It looks like I'll be replacing the bits of straight pipe and the Tee with ABS. Thanks!
Attached Images
 
meandiet is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2011, 04:41 PM   #9
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 270
Rewards Points: 250
Default

Help me! Cast Iron Leak (Picture)


What you are characterizing as a crack may very well be the result of corrosion from the inside and the corrosion may well extend above and/or below where it has broken through the surface.

Bob999 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Galvaized pipe to cast iron main. rosemonster Plumbing 0 01-04-2011 12:49 AM
cast iron lavatory sink tommmy 777 Plumbing 3 03-21-2010 03:49 PM
cast iron drain pipe? sharp Plumbing 3 10-14-2009 11:52 AM
No-Hub Cast Iron Closet Bend / Closet Flange lazypants Plumbing 10 06-11-2009 10:48 AM
Porcelain Quality on Steel and Cast Iron Tub? MrTubz General DIY Discussions 5 03-04-2009 05:24 AM




Top of Page | View New Posts

Copyright © 2003-2014 Escalate Media. All Rights Reserved.