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HELP! I'm NOT a plumber. And I don't play one on T.V.!

4K views 20 replies 5 participants last post by  kswoot 
#1 · (Edited)
HELP! I'm NOT a plumber. And I don't play one on T.V.! UPDATE: I CALLED A PLUMBER

We've lived in our house 2 years and have had a plumber "fix" our dripping shower faucet twice already. Now $300 later it is dripping yet again.
The house was built in the 60's and the plumbing is original. It is a two handle set-up. It is the hot water that drips from the faucet. The first time the plumber replaced the valve and handles. A few months later,
drip..drip..drip. The plumber wouldn't call us back so we called another guy who replaced the washers($200). A couple of months later it started dripping again. This is my son's bathroom so we have been making him go down to the basement and turn the hot water on and off down there. (Much to his chagrin!:wink:) Now it is dripping even when it is turned off at the basement. How can that be, and any ideas? I would like to try and repair this myself. My husband says "call the plumber, but I'd like to give it a whirl first! Any helpful tips would be much appreciated. (Or should I just go ahead and call the plumber?
UPDATE:10/2/08 My husband has been out of town and returns tonight, and I STILL haven't called a plumber! PLEASE help me fix this before he comes home! I have been working at it, and here is where I'm at: I've removed the packing nut and the washer(see picture of washer)
It looks good to me, but what do I know? It isn't flat or worn looking.
BTW the book says remove packing, which there wasn't any, and remove screw that holds washer, which there was no screw. It says to examine the stem, but I don't know if I am suppose to try and remove the stem.
It doesn't say how to do that, and there are no pictures. I think I see the valve seat, but I don't know if the strem comes out first. I have one of those ratchet and socket thing-ies, but can't get around the end of the stem to turn the ratchet. See pics of what tools I have, the washer, and
what I see when I'm looking "down the pipe"!
Thanks for any assistance. BTW: the handle at the basement shutoff feels damp:huh:
UPDATE 10/10/08 I surrender..I called a plumber! He told me over the phone that I need a new valve. He gave me an estimate of nearly $900 to replace the valve, and replace the trim with Delta Michael Graves designer(that's just what he uses.) It will go from a 2 knob to a single lever. He also has to create an access panel in a closet. I called another plumber for a second estimate. They suggested I go to the MOEN web site and pick out the trim and valve i want and then they will charge $300 to do the work, and will order the parts i use at a discount.
If I go with the second plumber the labor is $195 less, but I have the hassle of pickling this stuff out. They said Moen is more reliable in the long run than Delta.
QUESTION: I have spent hours looking at Moen. Should I convert to a single lever and have two silver doo-hickies covering the faucet holes, or should I choose trim that has two handles? Also, I'm thinking just the simplest valve, or is it best to get the pressure adjusting/temp.control valve? Any advise from all you wonderful plumbers would be so appreciated! I'm trying to keep the cost down, but don't want to sacrifice quality.
 

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#2 ·
dont know that I would call a plumber but it sounds like more then a washer is worn out so when they replace these things its just a temp fix.For what you have spent already you could have replaced the whole thing and thats what I would do now.Its not that big of a job and once you pick out what you want come back if you have any problems
 
#3 ·
Thanks for your quick response. When you say "replace the whole thing"
do yo mean the handles and the spout?

Also, Why would it be that the water still drips enough to fill up a bucket if
both the hot and cold are turned off down in the basement? Do we need to turn it off at the water heater too?

Thanks,
Kristen
 
#4 ·
the only thing I can think of that would keep it dripping is the water left in the line.When I say replace the whole thing yes I mean all of it.You said it was built in the 60s so that means the fixture is over 40 years old.You have had it repaired twice and it didnt hold.When you go to store to buy this you will find repair kits but you have already replaced what you will find in those kits so once and for all just put a new set up on and be done with it.Hey you might just find something you like even more and when you see how easy it is you might start replaceing others
 
#5 ·
Check the pressure coming into the house. See if they replaced the seats when they did the valves and washers.

If this sounds like a foreign language to you, then get a plumbing book from the local building store or library.

Sounds like your plumbers aren't very good, or you have a bunch of crud in your lines that is fouling your valves.
 
#10 ·
I understand that crud doesn't fill the buckets, water does! But with the lines shut off at the basement shouldn't the water in the lines eventually
run out? (since last night)? Nothing else runs off these lines.

When this happened before, shutting off the basement valves took care of the dripping. So does it soud like we have two seperate issues going on:
Crud keeping the basement valve from turning of, and another issue with the tub fixtures? Sorry to be such a dunce about this!
 
#13 ·
seeing that you live in the big A I would think your on city water which should be half way good.The reason I asked about the pipe is galv tends to get build up faster and was used in alot of older home.One thing that might help clean out the crud would be a softner on your system.That still wont fix the first problem but it may help with some problems down the road
 
#14 ·
There are different types of education. The one where you pay to go to school and have someone teach you things. And the one where you do things yourself and learn along the way. They can cost the same overall.

Hiring a plumber is not education and you learn nothing.

Do your research and get your hands dirty. If you are afraid of copper and want to learn how to solder then go to youtube.com and search for soldering copper pipes. It is easy. Then get some copper pipes at the store and the MAP gas, flux, solder and sand paper and practice.

Then learn to trouble shoot. Find out where the leak is happening. No sense in replacing everything. Once you know where the leak it then pull that out and see what parts look worn. Go to the local plumbing store and ask questions. They can often get you the parts you need.

If your pipes have not forzen then my guess is that you have a bad bushing in the faucet. There is probably lots of crap in the faucet that needs to be cleaned out which causes the seals to go bad prematurely.

The valve in the basement probably has the same problem. It is just old and warn. Turn off the water to the house and pull that out and see what is wrong there.

Overall it will be an education....or not of you call the plumber. Even that is an education...of financial management to pay the bill.
 
#15 ·
IF the old style washers are getting torn up causing the dripping,,,the seats are pitted and tearing the washers. I agree that a softener makes plumbing last longer. I also agree when all else fails,replace the whole faucet,,,same goes for the valve that leaks,,,I prefer 1/4 turn steam and water valves, never had those go bad YET when the globe and gates dont last from noon to dinner!! IF you have room for individual valves just for this faucet,,,would dothose too,,,makes 'next time' that much easier. Sweating copper isnt real hard,,,takes some practice and experience to get the right hot,,but doable.(I personally prefer threaded fittings and pipe cause I KNOW those are tight when I get done with it!! ) IF their isnt access to back side of this tub faucet,,,make one!! Leave it off for awhile to 'make sure' no leaks!!
 
#16 ·
I'm all about trying to learn, but with this it is 1/4 step forward and 20 steps backward! The first time this happened my hubby tried to
"educate" himself and 3 trips to Home Depot, 1 trip to Auto Store(to buy something the guy at HD told him he needed) and 6 hrs. later all
he had to show for it was a filthy bathroom and a very bad attitude! He threw up his hands in surrender and said, "Call the damn plumber"!

I got all our plumbing books out and still don't know what the heck to do because I can't even get the knobs off! I'm afraid I'll strip the threads. Now my husband's ticked because I'm too stubborn to call the plumber!

How can it still be dripping after 24hrs. and the water is shut off at the tub, and at the basement?
 
#17 · (Edited)
How MUCH plumbing is 'above' this level?? If a multistory house and this is first floor,,,lots of water in all the lines to gravity out of there. Open a faucet much lower than this one and 'drain' the pipes,then it wont leak 'for awhile',,,even if the shutoff valve leaks past some...OOPS should have said higher faucet and lower faucet so air can get in,and water doesnt get air locked. THATS what you NEED to do to do ANY repair on this faucet anyway!!
 
#18 ·
This a one story house. It is a slow dribble, but I just dumped another bucket of water from the tub. There is no visible leaking at the line in the basement. I won't be able to take a gander at this again until tomorrow as I have to paly shaffer, cook, and attend a meeting tonight!
Thanks for everyone's interest and suggestions.
 
#20 ·
IF thats as deep as you have gotten, your NOT down to the washers and seats YET. Take off that brass nut that holds that whole stem in there,behind that is where leaks occur.

As to the shutoff in the basement,The leak past and non shut off condition is "internal". need to take whole valve out to view,repair or replace,,,most likely replace. is this the MAIN shutoff for the WHOLE house? Or just this bath area?? IF your unscrewing it out,shut off water at main shutoff OR curbstop,,unless you have your OWN well.

If you are beyond your comfort level and expeience,consult a pro!! OR bat your eyes at a handyman neighbor,or friend of handy nature.(just kidding) ask nicely,,,you may well get alot of help!! this isnt rocket science and merely a screw right tite and left lucy!!
 
#21 ·
Thanks for your quick reply 4just1don!
I just found another plumbing book and it shows a picture of packing string and packing washers, so I just realized that I only got to the packing washer. So the brass nut holds the stem in, huh? What is the best way to get that nut off since I can't get my wrench in there, and can't use the ratchet due to the end of the stem being in the way?
 
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