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Old 05-06-2010, 10:59 AM   #1
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Heavy Duty Flush Sewer Cap?


Hello!

Can anyone recommend a sewer cap made of most likely steel or iron that I can embed flush in the ground which will allow me to cut the pictured PVC clean out a few inches below ground? Sort of like a sprinkler valve box? Fill around pipe with gravel... Looking for something I can drive my tractor over, if I need to to get in that area.
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Old 05-06-2010, 11:33 AM   #2
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they make a flush brass fitting but i would'nt be putting tractor tires on it as that probably will break the pipe

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Old 05-06-2010, 12:21 PM   #3
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they make a flush brass fitting but i would'nt be putting tractor tires on it as that probably will break the pipe
I'm looking for something to surround the pipe not to fit on top of it. The ground/gravel would support cover. The pipe I guess is 4" PVC so the sewer cap would need to be 8" so I can surround the pipe with gravel. I am thinking expose pipe maybe 6-8" below ground, put PVC cap for clean out maybe 4" underground and metal cap would be flush with or an inch above ground. Wouldn't be driving over it often enough to push metal cap down so far that it begins to PVC pipe.
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Old 05-07-2010, 03:28 AM   #4
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Try a plumbing supply house. There are companies out there that manufacture cast, steel and brass cleanouts/covers
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Old 05-07-2010, 10:57 AM   #5
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use a yard drain box
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Old 05-07-2010, 11:06 AM   #6
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As you suggest, a sprinkler valve box would withstand being run over by a garden tractor (mine do...). http://www.sprinkler.com/lawn-sprink...ts/valve-boxes (No affiliation, never even bought from them...)

On the other hand, my neighbor's new septic system has the now-code-required inspection ports installed flush to the ground with integral caps just like the one shown in your picture EXCEPT with a female square nut rather than the male square nut on your pipe. He rides his tractor over them w/o problem. Check a septic installer.

Either way will work, but I think the valve box would be more cumbersome as you'd have to open two things to get at that pipe.
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Old 05-07-2010, 11:33 AM   #7
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I'm hoping "I'm" never going to be the one opening it!
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Old 05-07-2010, 11:39 AM   #8
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I'm wondering if they originally installed it that high above the ground so you don't get a face full of sewerage when you open it if there is a clog. Is it installed higher than your lowest fixture?
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Old 05-07-2010, 02:03 PM   #9
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I'm wondering if they originally installed it that high above the ground so you don't get a face full of sewerage when you open it if there is a clog. Is it installed higher than your lowest fixture?
I think it's about 8-12" below tub p-trap on this side of house. Will measure and get back to you. House has IP Joists and most p-traps are "within" the joist space. This is lower than the foundation wall. You can see more of house here. Well its above the sump pump, but does that count since they have a pipe running from it into septic I think? Short of camera snake don't know. Wait a minute! If this line goes into septic there needs to be a p-trap somewhere or this is going somewhere else... Oh, no something else on the list of things to do...
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Old 05-07-2010, 02:18 PM   #10
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What is the purpose of that pipe? If it is a septic line inspection port like I think it is, what would be the purpose of a P-trap?

The inspection ports are used to judge the fluid levels; a P-trap would defeat that purpose.

Regardless, it is outside, so any gases wouldn't build up anyway.
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Old 05-07-2010, 09:08 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by cgoll View Post
What is the purpose of that pipe? If it is a septic line inspection port like I think it is, what would be the purpose of a P-trap?

The inspection ports are used to judge the fluid levels; a P-trap would defeat that purpose.

Regardless, it is outside, so any gases wouldn't build up anyway.
No, not this pipe! There is a 4" pipe the leads out of the sump, to where I don't know but I was thinking it goes into the the septic line. If it does wouldn't it need a p-trap to keep gases out of the sump?

It exits the sump and goes the opposite direction of the main soil stack see photos. Picture of sump was condition at home inspection before purchase. You can see exit right below old condensate drain that went into sump. Soil stack photo is about 2 months ago, radon was put in as part of condition of sale.
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Old 05-08-2010, 05:31 PM   #12
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The 4" pipe doesn't lead out of your sump pit. It leads into your sump pit and is not connected in any way to your septic tank. It collects water from under your slab and directs it to the sump pit.
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Old 05-09-2010, 10:32 PM   #13
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The 4" pipe doesn't lead out of your sump pit. It leads into your sump pit and is not connected in any way to your septic tank. It collects water from under your slab and directs it to the sump pit.
OK, now I am worried, so where is the sump pump supposed to be pumping to? Should the discharge hose be connected here? See photo, was this why this tee was put here? The original sump pump as seen in photos pumps into this 4" pipe as it "appeared" they were using it as discharge? Sump pump had yellow hoses attached to it that were pushed into this 4" pipe.
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Old 05-10-2010, 10:23 AM   #14
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I will most likely have to drill a hole in the foundation or side of house and run a line outside. We have a private well and the next concern is the discharge will be within the zone of the well. Using this picture in the above post is there a simple way to connect a lift pump (if that's what it's called) to use to drain the softener? Softener is not supposed to be drained into the sump. I need to put a utility sink here also, they had the utility sink draining into the sump.

As high as this house sits above grade the basement will flood only if we get another great flood. So I think I should be find with just a discharge to the outside. I need to manage the utility sink with a drain pump (lift pump). Don't want to start a new thread but may have to since this has gone off on a tangent from te original question.

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