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Old 09-16-2006, 11:43 AM   #16
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Heating Oil Pipe Removal


Like I always say, if it went together, they will come apart,.

The reason you seen no pipe dope is the threading of them together pushes the dope out of the threads, so when they come apart they look clean, trust me they used pipe dope to put them together, not only is pipe dope a sealant, it acts as a lube to make the threads slick, this allowing you to run them tight.

Glad you got the 1st part done, do the reat the same way.

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Old 09-16-2006, 04:23 PM   #17
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Hi Ron and all,

Thanks.

It's clear that I don't know much about steel pipe.
Using this pic for reference.....


Do the pipes need to come off in the order that they were installed?
In other words, I'm trying to remove #3.
Can I be tightening one end while trying to loosen the other?
Pipe #1 is in cement, so that's why I'm trying to remove the union (#2) or the little pipe (#3).

Is that the wrong way to do it?
Does turning the union counterclockwise loosen both ends?
Hope I'm explaining clearly enough.

Thanks.
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Old 09-16-2006, 04:30 PM   #18
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Added lighting to your picture

It comes apart in the order it went together.

#2 looks to be a coupling not a union, everything is righty tighty, lefty loosy.
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Old 09-16-2006, 04:42 PM   #19
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You need to cut somewhere. None of the piping will unscrew until you do. (unless there is an actual Union in the line somewhere to disconnect) If the picture is your ACTUAL piping, you don't even have room for a pipe cutter.
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Old 09-16-2006, 04:59 PM   #20
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Hi,

Yes, that is the actual piping.

So it either has to be cut, or removed in the reverse of how it went together..
That's probably why I can't remove it.

I guess I'll have to break the pipe out of the cement first, then try to remove it??
Cutting it doesn't seem to be an option.
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Old 09-16-2006, 05:01 PM   #21
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Keep us updated on how it's going
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Old 09-16-2006, 05:06 PM   #22
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Will do!

Thanks so much for the help. I learned a lot by coming here.
Keep up the great work!


Big Bill
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:17 PM   #23
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Hi Ron... and all,


Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron The Plumber View Post
Keep us updated on how it's going
Got it!

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Old 09-17-2006, 03:18 PM   #24
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I had to break the cement around the pipes, then a little muscle, and the outside pipe turned, and so on.....

Thanks for all the help,

Big Bill
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Old 09-17-2006, 03:24 PM   #25
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Thats great, good job

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Old 09-17-2006, 07:02 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Bill View Post
Hi Ron... and all,




Got it!


Great job

What is next?

The addition?
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Old 09-17-2006, 07:56 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redline View Post
Great job

What is next?

The addition?
Hi redline,

Yes, they should start framing in about 12 hrs.

I'll have to run a new fill and vent to a different location. Not a big deal now (I hope).
I'll measure how long the run will be, then see if the plumbing shop (or Home Depot) can set me up with threaded pipe.


I started this project more out of necessity, then trying to save some money. It had to be moved now!
Well, the contractor didn't want to touch it (wasn't in the contract to do).
So I called my oil company, and they didn't want to do it till the construction was done. (believe that??)

I was between a "pipe and a hard place" ... LOL

I figured how much could it cost to do??
The oil company said if they did do the job, it would cost $125.00 an hr., but couldn't tell me how many hours.
They estimated about 3-4 hrs, and $150.00 in materials.
So I'm saving at least $500.00 - $600.00 by doing it myself.

Thanks again, to all here who helped.


Big Bill

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