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Hard turning water valve

5K views 12 replies 4 participants last post by  Klawman 
#1 ·
Just recently I noticed that one of two valve controls for an upstairs bath is becoming very hard to turn. (The Cold control) Is this unusual or not and is there a problem I should look for? Access to the fixture appears to be very limited as the tub is set in a plywood box enclosed by tiles.

I wonder if this is a result of 20 years of house settlement possibly capped off by the recent Calexico earthquate some 130 miles south east of here. My main concern is that undue stress isn't being exerted on the copper tubing that could lead to a hidden leak.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Calcium buildup would be great as I think it would be readily fixable. I loooked more closely and no longer think that anything is rubbing against anything external to the valve. I have been trying to remove the handle from the stem but it is on pretty good after 20 years and I am carefull not to pry to hard with screwdrivers. Is there a better way, perhaps something like a gear puller. Alternatively, is there any way of cleaning out internal calcium buildup without disassembling the valve stem?

I am attaching a picture of what I have and yes, I did remove the handle set screw.

Using a couple of screwdrivers for leverage, the handle is very slowly moving. I stopped for a break and look for something else to apply even leverage.
 

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#4 · (Edited)
I got the handle off without damage to the valve assembly and took two photos. the first is terribly out of focus but I think the lower is helpful. For lack of knowing proper terminology, I will call the splined shaft that the handle fit on the stem shaft and the brass fitting it runs through the stem.

Note how the shaft isn't centered in the stem, but is off to one side so it almost appears to be up against the inside of the stem. After turning the stem with gas pliers I don't believe it in fact is binding against the stem.

From what you can see does anything indicate the cause of the shaft being so hard to turn? I am thinking that it somehow got bent. Possible from the quake. Should I attempt to remove the stem, which is pretty deep. I am concerned that since there is no way to get a grip on the valve assembly body too mush torsion may be transmitted to the connection with the pipes. If that needs be done, I don't see how a professional could do it either without opening up the tiled box surrounding the tub.

Should I leave well enough alone given that everything is working without a leak or even a drip as is? Thank you again.
 

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#8 ·
I think you are right and earlier today I dropped $6 on a shower valve socket wrench so I can pull the stem. I only tested its fit so far, as I have to schedule shutting down the water for the house with the family. including time to locate a replacement stem. Until I get it out I don't believe I will know if I can locate a replacement as the house is 20 years old. If not, I will rebuild it. Thanks
 
#11 ·
I put it back together for the time being and peace with the boss of the house, who wanted the water back on. If I can't locate a new valve stem, I will pick up some o rings. I am sure I will need them as now that I am aware of the problem with stiffening valves I notice that a cold sink valve of the same type in another part of the house is stiffening up.

What do you mean by the washer. After I put it all back, I was thinking how cheesy the seal was. Because of the cut out for what I will call a limiting peg (it limits the range of the turn to a quarter turn) I didn't want to use any thread tape and I didn't see a thin brass washer. I did check and watch for any sign of a leak and saw none. I wonder if there was a compression washer in place that I didn't notice and should have replaced. Is that the kind of washer you are thinking of?
 
#13 ·
No. I found something on line that took a long time to look through (until I found out how it was indexed) and I think I have something similar to a Harden Ceramic part # 11-7859, but not it.

I am not sure what I am looking at, but it appears that the valve shaft can be twisted a quarter turn so as to rotate plastic (ceramic?) cylnder inside the bore of the valve body and permit water flow through when a hole bored cross ways through the plastic cylinder is aligned with a hole bored cross the mid point of the valve body. I am beginning to suspect that my valve stem is out of production and that my only option, short of tearing into the tub surround, is to replace the 3 o'rings and clean the inside of the manifold with some emery cloth so as to remove calcium.
 
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