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Old 02-18-2010, 08:57 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by tpolk View Post
how do you know vent turns at top of wall? cut more drywall
I guess I'll be cutting...

Also, I am planning on on a double sink, the rough ins need to be 10-3/16" o.c. apart 15-1/8" below top of sink. Will this be too close together to use a 2" double sanitary tee or double combo Wye to do double p-traps? At the present time we are not going to do a disposal.

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Old 02-18-2010, 09:14 AM   #17
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I guess I'll be cutting...

Also, I am planning on on a double sink, the rough ins need to be 10-3/16" o.c. apart 15-1/8" below top of sink. Will this be too close together to use a 2" double sanitary tee or double combo Wye to do double p-traps? At the present time we are not going to do a disposal.

--Chris
Without having the fitting in hand and knowing if the drain is exact center already, it would be hard to tell...

you need a 2" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" "fixture cross" it's the one with the slightly longer sweeps. You can tell because if you ran a snake down it, it wouldn't go through the opposite side. Make sure you use a long sweep 1-1/2" 90* to stub out of the wall with.

Post pictures!
Also, whats up with the height? We always got 19" off the floor for a lavatory. Gives you extra room if you need to change it later, but it's not too long to meet code (more than 2ft of tailpiece)
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Last edited by Alan; 02-18-2010 at 09:16 AM.
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Old 02-18-2010, 11:39 AM   #18
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Without having the fitting in hand and knowing if the drain is exact center already, it would be hard to tell...

you need a 2" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" "fixture cross" it's the one with the slightly longer sweeps. You can tell because if you ran a snake down it, it wouldn't go through the opposite side. Make sure you use a long sweep 1-1/2" 90* to stub out of the wall with.

Post pictures!
Also, whats up with the height? We always got 19" off the floor for a lavatory. Gives you extra room if you need to change it later, but it's not too long to meet code (more than 2ft of tailpiece)
Eyeballing it I would say that's about where it is, the 15-1/8" is from the top down. It's all new work see post 8 & 9

EDIT

After getting parts I have a 1-1/2" double sanitary tee with two 90* elbows "not the long sweep type" which will allow my 10-3/16" separation. I will place a sanitary tee with a clean out below the double sanitary tee. As far as anyone know will this violate any UPC?

I will have to tie into the adjacent vent with with a reducing sanitary tee? With the angle down-wards?

Will be looking for vent in bathroom ceiling but it doesn't feel loose as if it would if it were cut off.

Last edited by ChrisDIY; 02-18-2010 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:00 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawktah View Post
After getting parts I have a 1-1/2" double sanitary tee with two 90* elbows "not the long sweep type" which will allow my 10-3/16" separation. I will place a sanitary tee with a clean out below the double sanitary tee. As far as anyone know will this violate any UPC?
Yes. If you're using a double outlet fitting like that with fixtures at the same level, your drain has to be sized one pipe size larger. Inspectors will want to see the fixture cross fitting like I described above and long sweep 90's for the stub outs also like I described above. You can get STREET long sweep 90's which will give you ~ another inch on each side, and your drain can be 2-3" off from center, and a p-trap will still hook up. I'll try to remember to check out that combination of fittings at work today and see what distance I come up with.

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I will have to tie into the adjacent vent with with a reducing sanitary tee? With the angle down-wards?
that confused me

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Originally Posted by dawktah View Post
Will be looking for vent in bathroom ceiling but it doesn't feel loose as if it would if it were cut off.
It probably won't if it's still connected down low, so that doesn't necessarily mean anything. Probably a good idea to find it then, if you don't have the option of running water through it.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:35 AM   #20
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OK, So I need to take back the 1-1/2" double.. and get the 2 x 1-1/2 x 2 x1-1/2" double sanitary. Lowe's didn't have street long but had street regular 90's I have to look and see if they have a vent tee. If you use a sanitary tee to tie into the vent not the drain which way does it point?

Since I'm not a plumber I don't know correct terminology yet.
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Old 02-19-2010, 09:41 AM   #21
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venting left, wasting right
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Old 02-19-2010, 11:00 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dawktah View Post
OK, So I need to take back the 1-1/2" double.. and get the 2 x 1-1/2 x 2 x1-1/2" double sanitary. Lowe's didn't have street long but had street regular 90's I have to look and see if they have a vent tee. If you use a sanitary tee to tie into the vent not the drain which way does it point?

Since I'm not a plumber I don't know correct terminology yet.
Correction : The only part of the fitting that needs to be 2" is the lower drain portion. The two side inlets and the vent can be 1-1/2"

If you can only get the one with 2" vent, stick a bushing in it.

When venting just remember if you were to run water down it, it should follow the sweep of the fitting.
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Old 02-24-2010, 08:33 PM   #23
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Follow my progress with this project in this thread
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Old 02-24-2010, 11:44 PM   #24
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I was DEEPLY confused I guess. I should have realized that this thread was about your KITCHEN SINK, but somehow we got off talking about vents and lavs and etc etc etc.......

I now see that you have two stub-outs for your kitchen sink. I'm not sure what your local code is there, but we generally tie them together under the sink with tubular PVC and run them into a single trap. We stub THOSE OUT 8" off center and 16" off the floor.

If you have a garbage disposal and dishwasher it should go garbage disposal on one end, drain in the middle and dishwasher on the other end. You want your stubout to be inbetween the g/d and the d/w.


Anyway, if you've already got it done, and that is kosher with your local inspector then i guess it's ok. I would never do that because then you have piping in the wall that is more apt to clogging. If you keep as many connections exposed as possible it will be easier to clean out later.
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Old 02-25-2010, 05:41 PM   #25
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I was DEEPLY confused I guess. I should have realized that this thread was about your KITCHEN SINK, but somehow we got off talking about vents and lavs and etc etc etc.......

I now see that you have two stub-outs for your kitchen sink. I'm not sure what your local code is there, but we generally tie them together under the sink with tubular PVC and run them into a single trap. We stub THOSE OUT 8" off center and 16" off the floor.

If you have a garbage disposal and dishwasher it should go garbage disposal on one end, drain in the middle and dishwasher on the other end. You want your stubout to be inbetween the g/d and the d/w.


Anyway, if you've already got it done, and that is kosher with your local inspector then i guess it's ok. I would never do that because then you have piping in the wall that is more apt to clogging. If you keep as many connections exposed as possible it will be easier to clean out later.
Sent you a PM about this, kitchen sink is a hi-low, unequal with no disposal as we are on a septic system. Had to put in clean out. Locations are per spec sheet for sink.

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