Gluing PVC pipe and toilet flange

ex-Khobar Andy

My plumber left me with a 3" female connection at the 12" roughin, because I wasn't sure what flooring I was going with. Now the flooring is in place, I have 3" PVC and the flange, and I have calculated that in in order to get the flange level with the finished floor I need 3 1/4 inches of pipe. But when I try to dry fit this,the pipe does not go all the way in and the flange is an inch or so above the floor. I have one shot at this with the glue. My question is: does the glue act as a lubricant when assembling the joint so that the inserted pipe does in fact go all the way to the stop? So yes, I can cut it to 3.25" and it will push all the way home; or I should cut the pipe shorter and just push it to level?

There is no obstruction, just a very tight fit and I don't want to ram it in place while dry because I will never get it apart again to glue it.

TheEplumber

Fitting tolerances are really tight. so when you "dry fit" a joint, they never seat completly. If your confident in your measurement, it will seat completely with glue. Keep pressure on it for a few seconds so it doesn't back out on you

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Fix'n it

yeah, the glue will lube it, but i wouldn't trust that entirely. how far can you push it in ?

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joecaption

Why not just lay the floor, cut it off even with the flooring then install the flange?

Javiles

Should have been 4 4x3 closet bend then you could have gone in with a inside 4 out side 3 flange, but whats done is done, you could sacrifice a flange cut re leaf cuts on the flange so you can insert it and pull it back easily then when you verify your measurements glue in the new flange.

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Fix'n it

man, you ain't kiddin. and if they do go all the way in = good luck gettin them apart.

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jeffnc

Glue will lube it very well. Almost too well - note that the way those pipes are designed, it will want to slide back out when lubed with glue. You have to hold it in placed (pressed firmly down) for about a minute before letting go.

jagans

First of all, the flange is supposed to sit ON TOP of the finished floor.

Secondly, We have to assume that you own a ruler? All you have to do is measure the distance from the finished floor, to the back of the bell, then measure from the back of the flange to the end of the spigot on the flange. Subtract about 3/16 for kicks, and cut the spigot off square. You can use a hose clamp to give you a really square line. You should get a flange with a stainless moveable ring on top. Prime the bell, and the pipe, and thoroughly coat both with slow set cement. You need a big dauber for 3 inch pipe. push in the spigot till it bottoms and rotate 1/4 turn to remove any bubbles. And Definitely hold the flange in, as another poster said, because it will try to back out from the heat developed by THF.

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ex-Khobar Andy

The advice I got from a plumber at work was that the flange should be level with the finished floor; and looking at a random selection of you tube posts by people who claim to be plumbers, they are about evenly divided between those who place it on the finished floor and those who put it on the subfloor so it is more or less level with the finished floor surface. I have already cut all the tile so that the flange sits on the subfloor and is within 1/16th of level with the tile surface. Should I shim it up with a flange spacer?

jagans

Nahh dont bother. Ive seen toilets with three wax seals! Just so the flange is well supported, and fastened down, because the toilet attaches to it in those keyhole slots. I slide in 5/16 brass bolts and put a jamb nut on top to secure the hold down bolts vertical and centered. Put the seal on the toilet and drop the bowl into position. Fasten down the bowl, and then install the tank nice and level.

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Javiles

These flange post are getting old. Flange sits over the finished FLOOR!!!!!

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