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beengone 09-13-2012 09:20 PM

Gas line to dryer
Recently moved into a very old house. We were given a nice gas dryer and from what I hear, we'd rather have gas than electric. I have gas run the area where I need it via sideways U-shaped black pipe that goes out to within about 8' of the wall I need to come up and then back. The picture below will help clear up my poor description. (Nevermind the junk all over the crawlspace dirt. Not sure what they were doing there.) The T that goes to the soft copper is the gas they stubbed out to the back room of the house to run a space heater. I'm working to replace the furnace so I don't need to use these types of heaters. If it's best, I could take that copper and just move it where I need it. In the picture, I need the gas toward the top-right where the water lines go up - those lines feed the bathroom sink and washer, dryer is right next to it.

So, what is my best bet? Notice there are no unions in the black pipe. I could cut the pipe and put in another T with a union. I could pull the copper down and swing it around to the dryer. If I run a new T, should I run copper, or the flexible insulated line? Should I run it to an inset box in the wall?

I'm competent to do the work, I'm plenty confident of that. But, I just don't know what's appropriate material or method.

Dan J.

beengone 09-13-2012 09:26 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Oops, and the picture.
Attachment 57340

hvac benny 09-13-2012 09:50 PM

Step one would be to size your lines and make sue they have enough capacity, as well as ensure your meter/regulator also have enough capacity. Being competent with gas means more than just being able to screw some pipe together.

joecaption 09-13-2012 10:17 PM

Call a plumber or have the gas company hook it up for you.

Javiles 09-13-2012 10:30 PM

i see a few problems i would let a gas certified plumber take care of that installation. better to be safe than sorry.

beengone 09-13-2012 10:42 PM

Sizing the system shouldn't be impossible if I know what I'm looking for. I know what pipe diameter I have and can find most other info out just like a plumber could. As for volume needed, can I get that info from the gas company? Or, do I total it by finding certain requirements from my gas appliances (dryer, furnace, stove, water heater)? I have mostly 1/2" pipe to the ends and can check what I have coming in from the meter.

As for the problems, what problems do you see? I understand plumbers need jobs just like the rest of us and hope soon I can afford to have someone come in to do some of this type of work for me. Right now, I need to get a dryer hooked up before it's too cold to be hanging clothes out on the line. That day isn't far off.

I'm posting on a DIY forum in hopes of doing this myself. If there are legitimate reasons I cannot do it myself, please make them known. Otherwise, please offer whatever help you can.

COLDIRON 09-14-2012 06:24 AM

Get rid of the copper completely, swing the Tee around install a shut off valve right at the Tee, run 1/2" black pipe over and up to the dryer, install another gas shut off above the floor then run a approved 1/2" gas flex line to dryer, leak check all work and fire it up.

a_lost_shadow 09-14-2012 09:59 AM

Most folks advise against DIYers doing gas because folks aren't willing to do enough research, planning, and testing to do it right. And with gas, their mistakes often injury and/or damage the property of their family and neighbors.

I would suggest doing the following before you get two far along:
1) Check with you're building department to see if homeowners can run gas. Many places do not allow homeowners to do this sort of work.
2) Read over the fuel code that your building department uses. Ask questions and reread it until it all makes sense.
3) Make sure that you know all the restrictions on types of fittings (such as no unions in non-accessible places)
4) Size your gas system. The fuel code you're under will have the details and the tables you need. For example here's a summary provided by one city
5) Make sure you know what testing needs to take place, and under what conditions. Differing jurisdictions have differing test requirements.

hvac benny 09-14-2012 10:30 AM


Originally Posted by COLDIRON
Get rid of the copper completely, swing the Tee around install a shut off valve right at the Tee, run PROPERLY SIZED black pipe over and up to the dryer, install another gas shut off above the floor, PRESSURE TEST TO CODE then run an approved and PROPERLY SIZED gas flex line to dryer, leak check all work and fire it up.


COLDIRON 09-14-2012 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by hvac benny (Post 1009777)


Javiles 09-14-2012 02:00 PM

Something as a simple clogged orifice from crystallized gas in a line, to an improperly bonded gas line. could cost loss of life and the least is property damage which by the way if the fire marshal determines that a fire was caused by a gas related leak, and the insurance finds out that the work was done by an unlicensed person or contractor guess who’s not getting paid on their insurance claim. So when the guys here on these forms that have been doing this for a while in my case 38 plus years, recommend you have a licensed professional do the work I tend to believe its in your best interest. These sites are for the homeowner manageable task, change a fill valve on a toilet, fix a leak here and there. Big difference between changing a flapper VS running a new gas branch. I love how people minimize a trade they have no clue as what it takes to become a master plumber. Much less a licensed contractor. I can understand saving a few bucks but necessity VS practicality VS common sense VS safety ? anyway it’s not my house or next door to my house, so go for it. but before check out this link

Neverenoughtool 09-14-2012 02:38 PM


Originally Posted by COLDIRON (Post 1009630)
Get rid of the copper completely, swing the Tee around install a shut off valve right at the Tee, run 1/2" black pipe over and up to the dryer, install another gas shut off above the floor then run a approved 1/2" gas flex line to dryer, leak check all work and fire it up.

X2 regarding the above

Gary in WA 09-14-2012 11:05 PM

It appears the support strapping for the plumbing waste lines and water/gas supply lines are missing. A floor joist is missing a chunk in the lower (compression) edge, reducing its size/span to the next one down, it is compromised. The Romex electrical wiring should be stapled to the joist bottoms or run through drilled holes. The right-hand 2" drain line appears to be back-sloped, could be wrong. Are your perimeter foundation walls insulated-- as the floor is not. My 2 cents- anytime I see a picture...


ben's plumbing 09-14-2012 11:15 PM

where do i start....oh yes...have it all removed and installed right to code with proper sizing and supports and while this is a diy site....this is not a diy project sorry but its not...don't take it personal..take it as fact and for safety...:yes:

beengone 09-15-2012 09:52 AM

Yeah, I have lots of work to do. I have to insulate the whole space and staple wires still. Since moving in I had to redo a good deal of plumbing, lots of wiring, install soffit vents, and fix countless other problems. I have to put in a new beam in that crawl space including pole jacks as well as strap up pipes. Notice all the construction waste on the ground? I have to figure that whole area out.

Since I have 1/2" black pipe runs after the furnace, I don't think I'm going to have to start from scratch. This weekend I'll try to read up on code and next week call the inspector to answer questions. Thanks for all the advice.

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