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-   -   Galvanized and PVC (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/galvanized-pvc-153059/)

benleef 08-08-2012 11:15 AM

Galvanized and PVC
 
2 Attachment(s)
Hi all.

I'm looking to fix a few issues. My washer often will not drain correctly and backs up the straight pipe, spilling lots of water onto the floor. I'm pretty sure the problem is that the trap is clogged. I planned on changing out that portion of the piping with PVC, putting in a new trap and perhaps a larger straight pipe.

However, part of me is considering changing out all the galvanized pipe. The pipe that runs straight up is the drain for the kitchen sink, which sometimes drains slowly, so I planned to change the trap on that sink too, so figured, why not just change everything out to PVC.

I'm looking for some guidance and advice. What would you guys do? Can I just use a PVC Male nipple to attach to female threaded galvanized portion?

Any tips or advice would be appreciated.

michaelcherr 08-08-2012 10:23 PM

I generally use Fernco type rubber fittings to transition between PVC and metal cast iron or galvanized drain pipes.
In my experience replacing the old pipes with pvc saves some later headaches.
The junction will eventually rust and leak (after many years).
Cutting off a bit more metal and re- attaching the fernco solves this. So help out the next guy and leave a little extra metal pipe.

ben's plumbing 08-09-2012 04:07 PM

just replace it all to the stack ....:yes: get proper size fernco ...as mentioned...

biggles 08-09-2012 06:46 PM

might consider sealing the washer line onto that riser pipe the washer pumps the bin water out open trap is backing up before it can trap out.break that riser pipe away and insert a piece of PVC with a fillting to take the washer hose even tee it in and cap the PVC riser.see that reducing coupling break the riser right out of there

benleef 08-09-2012 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by biggles (Post 985176)
might consider sealing the washer line onto that riser pipe the washer pumps the bin water out open trap is backing up before it can trap out.break that riser pipe away and insert a piece of PVC with a fillting to take the washer hose even tee it in and cap the PVC riser.see that reducing coupling break the riser right out of there

I fixed the pics so easier to see. So you are saying keep the trap? change the riser pipe to pvc and use a compression fitting to seal washer hose in to the larger pvc pipe riser?

MarkusAIC 08-09-2012 08:50 PM

Replace all the galvanized with PVC.
Your clog issues are probably at the horizontal Y and the 45 going into the cast stack. Use a standard PVC male adapter with dope. While you have the pipes open rod the main line. Hire a plumber or rent a rodder. Clean out the existing trap fully and leave in place. A air gap is required where the washer hose enters the standpipe. You should not fully seal it.
If you rent a rodder, be very careful. A properly sized rodder has lots of torque. For a newbie I would suggest NOT wearing gloves. The line can easily grab the gloves and cause serious injury.

TheEplumber 08-09-2012 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benleef (Post 985260)
I fixed the pics so easier to see. So you are saying keep the trap? change the riser pipe to pvc and use a compression fitting to seal washer hose in to the larger pvc pipe riser?

Start at the stack branch and replace all of it with plastic. The trap, horizontal pipe, stack to the kitchen, etc. You will be surprised at the build up inside that pipe. My guess is its 50% blocked with crud over the years.
Make the connection with a fernco coupling as mentioned earlier or remove the galvanized pipe from the hub and use a "doughnut" gasket to convert to plastic.
Didn't you say the kitchen sink does not have a vent? Put an AAV up there while your at it :thumbsup:

benleef 08-10-2012 07:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 985294)
Start at the stack branch and replace all of it with plastic. The trap, horizontal pipe, stack to the kitchen, etc. You will be surprised at the build up inside that pipe. My guess is its 50% blocked with crud over the years.
Make the connection with a fernco coupling as mentioned earlier or remove the galvanized pipe from the hub and use a "doughnut" gasket to convert to plastic.
Didn't you say the kitchen sink does not have a vent? Put an AAV up there while your at it :thumbsup:

Should I put an AAV on the washer too? What if I add a laundry sink too? Can the washer stack and laundry sink share a drain line? and would I need an AAV even though so close to main vent?

michaelcherr 08-10-2012 07:55 AM

There should be a table or chart online showing you max distance from vent per pipe size/slope.
There are also charts available that state which drain size can handle what amount of fixtures. If memory serves me correctly a 2" drain can handle a washing machine and a sink ( use 1 1/2 for the sink only parts)
Make a diagram of what you plan to plumb (plenty of info online to teach you how to do that) that can also help get a second set of eyes or a permit if you are going that route

benleef 08-10-2012 08:23 AM

1 Attachment(s)
Thanks. I found a chart and for 2" trap the max distance is 8 feet--which I'm almost positive I'd be within. The max distance for 1.5" trap is 6 feet---so I'm thinking I could put the sink closer to the main vent.

here is a quick and dirty diagram I drew up. Would work OK?

TheEplumber 08-10-2012 10:37 AM

1 Attachment(s)
This will work. Also add a AAV at the kitchen sink
If this plumbs in too high for a sink(trap arm at 12" above floor) eliminate the 2" 90 at the base of the wet vented stack. Use a combination wye/45 instead and run the washer off the end of the combo. This will drop the rough in a few inches

benleef 08-10-2012 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 985503)
This will work. Also add a AAV at the kitchen sink
If this plumbs in too high for a sink(trap arm at 12" above floor) eliminate the 2" 90 at the base of the wet vented stack. Use a combination wye/45 instead and run the washer off the end of the combo. This will drop the rough in a few inches

Got it. Thanks. This would actually work better for me in the tight space I have. Do I run the AAV up to a height past the height of the stack for the washer drain?

TheEplumber 08-10-2012 11:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benleef (Post 985520)
Got it. Thanks. This would actually work better for me in the tight space I have. Do I run the AAV up to a height past the height of the stack for the washer drain?

Yep, 6" above the highest flood rim, which generally translates to 42"
Also, keep the vertical pipe in my drawing 2" through the clean out- don't know if that was clear to you, clean outs should be the size of the line it serves when possible

benleef 08-10-2012 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheEplumber (Post 985522)
Yep, 6" above the highest flood rim, which generally translates to 42"
Also, keep the vertical pipe in my drawing 2" through the clean out- don't know if that was clear to you, clean outs should be the size of the line it serves when possible

Great! Your diagram helps a lot! If I don't do the slop sink, do you still think I should do an AAV for the washer?

biggles 08-10-2012 03:55 PM

any thing that is run to a drain has to be trapped or the odors will work into the item draining.don't need compression fitting radiator clamps over a reduced PVC fitting on the ned of that new PVC riser


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