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Old 04-19-2010, 04:34 PM   #1
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


First time user/poster, first time home owner (starter home, about four years old).

First project:

I left the garden hose attached to the outside faucet for a week while the temp dropped... now my kitchen floor floods when I turn the faucet on with a nozzle attached ( probably leaks either way, but I didn't detect it until I attached the nozzle and increased the pressure )....

I started looking into replacing the line ( pvc ) going out to the faucet, and started researching.



Problems I ran into while attempting to look at fixing the outside faucet:

1)I am unable to turn the main shutoff valves all the way off (pvc 90 degree shutoff valves... will attach a pic, they are located above my water heater ). I can turn them about 70%, and they get so tight that I would need a wrench to continue turning them. I tried a few in the store and they turned very easily and smooth.. is this normal when you add water pressure? -any tips on replacing the shutoff valves?



2)My kitchen has a 3-4ft wall that comes out into the room, and the water line is inside ( not easy to get to ), would like to fix this from the outside.



3) Do they make repair kits that slip inside of the current water line (going to the outside faucet)? Is it possible that the vacuum breaker on the faucet could be damaged and the water line is great shape, maybe this is why I only detect the leak when a nozzle is attached?



Thanks again for any suggestions.


Last edited by k6trouble; 04-19-2010 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 04-19-2010, 05:28 PM   #2
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


I they're ok open (valves question) with no leaks, I'd leave them where they are, turn off main inlet, cut the lines and use purple primer/glue and put in new valves. Look up hole to be sure the open valves are not gunked up, clean as needed before gluing.
Wrap tape around open valves.

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Old 04-20-2010, 11:38 PM   #3
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


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Originally Posted by k6trouble View Post
First time user/poster, first time home owner (starter home, about four years old).

First project:

I left the garden hose attached to the outside faucet for a week while the temp dropped... now my kitchen floor floods when I turn the faucet on with a nozzle attached ( probably leaks either way, but I didn't detect it until I attached the nozzle and increased the pressure )....

I started looking into replacing the line ( pvc ) going out to the faucet, and started researching.



Problems I ran into while attempting to look at fixing the outside faucet:

1)I am unable to turn the main shutoff valves all the way off (pvc 90 degree shutoff valves... will attach a pic, they are located above my water heater ). I can turn them about 70%, and they get so tight that I would need a wrench to continue turning them. I tried a few in the store and they turned very easily and smooth.. is this normal when you add water pressure? -any tips on replacing the shutoff valves?



2)My kitchen has a 3-4ft wall that comes out into the room, and the water line is inside ( not easy to get to ), would like to fix this from the outside.



3) Do they make repair kits that slip inside of the current water line (going to the outside faucet)? Is it possible that the vacuum breaker on the faucet could be damaged and the water line is great shape, maybe this is why I only detect the leak when a nozzle is attached?



Thanks again for any suggestions.
That Woodford frostfree hose faucet has frozen and split. when they freeze and split they willonly leak when turned on and leak worse if you have a nozzle or the like attached causing the pressure to blow out the split in the copper on the faucet in the wall. You have to open the wall or ceiling under the faucet to get access to it.
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Old 04-21-2010, 07:44 AM   #4
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


If you cannot turn off your valve you should try soaking it with WD40 or 321 oil or some such to loosen it up.

However - I find it hard to imagine that this *is* your only shutoff for your water supply to the entire condo - is there water supply coming from elsewhere? (in the yard, by the street?) . . . I know it's a condo and that makes things a bit different than if it was a regular single-family home but it's worth looking into and considering if it's possible.

To remove your faucet you, obviously, have to turn off your water. If after soaking it with an oil compound doesn't work then you need to quick-cut the line to do work or replace. I suggest you cut the line on the inside and have a sharkbite (or other brand) cap for immediate reattachment (sharkbites are fittings that slide on with no special tools, but do need a cresent fitting to remove them - just a small plastic C) - I no longer advise using them for permanent plumbing purposes but their caps are great and you should definitely have them on hand.
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:13 AM   #5
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


Quote:
That Woodford frostfree hose faucet has frozen and split. when they freeze and split they willonly leak when turned on and leak worse if you have a nozzle or the like attached causing the pressure to blow out the split in the copper on the faucet in the wall
That was my thought also. I have experienced this in a rental I have. But, I did have access to it under the floor. I think it has something to do with the faucet not having any drop to it, or being slanted up and not allowing it to drain as it is supposed to do when shut off. Fills with water and freezes. Kind of defeats the purpose of the frostfree design.

Maybe the turnoff is has some mineral buildup from hardwater not letting it shut completely off. I would also try to soak it with something and working it several times to see if I could work the gung out.

I have no experience with condos, but it does seem there would be another main shutoff somewhere, even if you had to turn your neighbors water (if connected to the same shutoff outside) off long enough to change that valve if needed.

Last edited by boman47k; 04-21-2010 at 10:20 AM.
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:20 PM   #6
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


Thanks for all the tips....

This is single-family home, on concrete slab... The shutoff in the above pic is the "main" or "first" shutoff inside of the house. There is another shutoff outside underground next to the water meter, but the top is a pain to open ( bolted shut ) and the shutoff is a pain to get to ( its under the meter with very little clearance)... so thats why I want this shutoff valve inside of the house working, just in case of an emergency etc...

I'll try to soak the shutoff valve and post updates soon..

Faucet is on the outside wall, so I'm going to pull off the plastic siding around the outside nozzle and see if I can see up inside.

thanks again for the information, I'll post what I find later today...
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Old 04-21-2010, 03:46 PM   #7
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


K6, the faucet may be on the outside, but the water shuts off about 12 inches inside. The seal that closes the valve is at the end of a stem that goes to the seal several inches away from the outside of the wall. From the faucet handle back to the seal that shuts the water off is supposed to drain when the water is turned off leaving an empty pipe, so to speak. No water, no freezing. If it has had water to seep into it, or not been draining properly, it can freeze and rupture. If that has happend, looks like you will be busting some of the slap out to get to it.

Last edited by boman47k; 04-21-2010 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 04-21-2010, 05:21 PM   #8
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


Yup, just like bowman said. don't waste your time opening up the outside because it will just be a waste of time. you need to open the wall inside to access the back where the faucet connects to the pipe. It will be from 6" to 12" more than likely. 10" is the most common.
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Old 04-21-2010, 08:11 PM   #9
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


well, there is enough clearance to see the pipe from the outside, but your right, I'll have to open the wall up inside the house to get to it and cut/remove/replace...

However, I think I can do this. I'll post pics of the entire process, maybe someone in the future could find this useful.

Thanks again everyone
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Old 04-21-2010, 10:02 PM   #10
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


Is the faucet coming through the wall or the slab? I would think it coming through the slab. If so, cabinets over it? Hope not if you have to cut the concrete from inside. I have seen this situation remedied from the outside once years ago by beating the block and crete from around the faucet. This was on my parents home, and I cannot say for sure if it was a frostfree or how far back they had to bust the crete. This faucet came out of the slab right under the kitchen cabinets. It would have been very hectic to deal with the cab's to get to the pipes.

The reason I mention this is you are saying tear into the wall. I'm thinking the floor is what will be torn into, if you have to do it from the inside.

P.S. I know it said it only leaks when you turn the water on, but after all the trouble of breaking concrete, I think I might would pull the faucet and stub the supply pipe off and cap it. Turn the water on and make sure the damage did not go further back. It would be aggravating to do all that then find you still have seepage from a cracked pipe. Remove the stub and replace faucet if no leak or seepage can be found.

Oh! I guess there is no need to say anything about leaving the hose attached with the nozzle still on it and the water turned on.
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Old 04-22-2010, 12:41 AM   #11
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


It will be in the wall not the slab. the slab would be to grade and the faucet would be above grade coming out of a wall. If he replaces the faucet he won't have other cracks unless he makes them doing the replacement. It he had a crack before teh faucet it would leak 24/7
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Old 04-22-2010, 05:36 PM   #12
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


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It will be in the wall not the slab. the slab would be to grade and the faucet would be above grade coming out of a wall. If he replaces the faucet he won't have other cracks unless he makes them doing the replacement. It he had a crack before teh faucet it would leak 24/7
That did cross my mind. I was thinking of a seeping leak that might not be readily noticed. I thought he said the line was coming from the slab. I did notice the faucet looked a little high to be coming out of the slab. I had rather tear the wall than bust crete! I still hope there are no cab's in the way.

Last edited by boman47k; 04-22-2010 at 05:45 PM.
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Old 07-01-2013, 03:26 AM   #13
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Frozen outside faucet leaks -> Hose left attached


I have a question related to the trim behind the faucet. Does anyone know what is that called and where to get it ? Thank you.
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Old 07-01-2013, 11:29 AM   #14
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the big box carry them, ask a few people, one of those jokers will know what you mean

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