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Old 04-06-2011, 08:38 PM   #1
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Frost Free Sillcock Brands?


Lowe's around here sell Woodford Handwheel Brass and American Valve frost proof sillcock. Are either of these worth the money to purchase?

These two sillcocks have a really odd problem. When you turn the water on, they sound like someone is using a ballpeen hammer on the copper supply lines. I've removed the stem and checked the washer, but everything seems connected and tight. Another one has a bent stem. Looks like the brick masons dropped a brick on the handle, bending the stem. All original faucets are Matco – Norca 212 UPC – CSA
Can't find anyone who sells replacement parts for these.

Plumbing is the worst job I can think of doing, seems like I never get it right the first time, so any suggestions as how to replace two faulty frost proof sillcocks would be appreciated. Can I simply heat a soldered connection till it melts and slip the old one off, then solder the new one in its place?

Thanks for any information.

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Old 04-06-2011, 11:28 PM   #2
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Frost Free Sillcock Brands?


I won't recommend a good hose bib because I don't think they exist anymore. I'm in the middle of a recall of a brand that I once considered very good (not a brand you named). But once you choose one, your best bet will be to cut the pipe leading to the bib and not unsweat the bib. the new bib will probably be a slightly different length so you may have to lengthen or shorten the existing supply pipe anyway. When you solder the new bib, be sure its open so you won't melt the seat

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Old 04-07-2011, 06:13 PM   #3
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Frost Free Sillcock Brands?


Thanks Eplumber.

I took all 3 of the stems out today and looked closely at the washer end. These Matco–Norca 212's have a spring loaded washer end that was stuck in the compressed position. I took the spring mechanism apart and found what looks like a Dremel collet being pushed by a spring. The "collet" was rough where it slid inside and along the stem. It looked like the "collet" was made without buffing or smoothing the end, and it was binding inside the stem tube.

I think I fixed all three problems without having to replace the sillcock. At least I sure hope so, because one of them was going to be a real bear to get to. I was going to have to remove a heating duct, and the floor register just to get to the pipe.

Thanks again
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Old 06-23-2013, 06:59 PM   #4
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Frost Free Sillcock Brands?


Plumbing is difficult if you don't do it for a living.


Neurosurgery is difficult if you don't do it for a living


Stay away from the torch. Don't heat the joint and try to remove it. You may burn the structure down.

Cut a hole in the wall and cut it at the source.

Replace with a sharkbite fitting.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:54 PM   #5
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Frost Free Sillcock Brands?


Sharkbite fittings should not be used on outside faucets because of the stress from people pulling on the faucet and the turning of the shut off( some people shut freeze proof off in the winter). Any new faucet I install on the outside of a house is very securely strapped on the inside and outside.
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Old 06-23-2013, 08:58 PM   #6
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Frost Free Sillcock Brands?


The Sharkbite fitting is perfectly acceptable.


In order to prevent undue stress on the pipe it should be properly braced with screws and caulking.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:15 PM   #7
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Frost Free Sillcock Brands?


It sounds like the op has used the torch before.... I disagree with using the sharkbite...just as mj said... If the sillock is through brick most of the time people don't screw them in...

Check first if your sillocks are threaded or not first... Threaded just take it off and replace with the same length.
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:32 PM   #8
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Frost Free Sillcock Brands?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tatertot View Post
It sounds like the op has used the torch before.... I disagree with using the sharkbite...just as mj said... If the sillock is through brick most of the time people don't screw them in...

Check first if your sillocks are threaded or not first... Threaded just take it off and replace with the same length.
Actually the OP last responded to this thread in 2011....

The thread was reopened by a new member asking a question about repairing a hose bib- but nobody caught that- so I split his post into a new thread.

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