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Old 02-18-2008, 04:47 PM   #16
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Flange type (photo) slate


Heres the other photos. See the very first post for more info- I edited it.


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Old 02-18-2008, 06:36 PM   #17
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Flange type (photo) slate


I can't tell for sure from the pics. It looks like a short piece of lead, the cast iron. It also doesn't look like their is metal anywhere near the level of the floor.
Take a close look at it, is the top part lead of cast iron
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Old 02-18-2008, 07:50 PM   #18
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Flange type (photo) slate


It appears to be a lead sleeve that terminates below the tile and cast iron where the bumpy pipe starts below, you can see the place where the two pipes join together. It may be that the lead portion contains the brass ferrel that Marlin was talking about and is fairly solid. I just can't tell the distance below the floor that the pipe starts and if the rubber will compress enough on the flange you plan to use. If that lead is inside of a cast iron hub (and not somehow soldered to the outside of a 4 " pipe) then it should be possible to remove the lead and brass ferrel from the hub (with effort) and extend a new piece of pvc secured in the cast hub with rubber sleeve or "e-z tight" (can't think of the proper name for it now)
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Old 02-18-2008, 09:17 PM   #19
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Flange type (photo) slate


Dual tight.
If that is indeed the brass ferrel just clean it up and use a compression flange.
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Old 02-21-2008, 11:33 AM   #20
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Flange type (photo) slate


Don't laugh-this may be ghetto but...
Can I put a wax ring on top of the existing pipe, then put my twist and set flange on top of that?
I think because I don't want to chip up the slate or try to remove the lead ring portion, I'm stuck on the twist and set idea. Also, I like it because I can easily visualize how it would work.
I'd want to put the wax ring in there just as additional insurance against leaks.
But, as you can clearly tell, I am no plumber.
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Old 02-21-2008, 06:46 PM   #21
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Flange type (photo) slate


I would just use the twist and set flange as long as it reaches the lead and it seems solid.

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