Flange 4" higher than subfloor

kelrock

I am finishing off my basement and wanted to add in a 1/2 bath but I decided against buying a Saniflo toilet or an ejector pump b/c of the cost and just decided to tie into the main drain since it leaves the basement at the floor level. I hammered into the foundation and put the line in and now (as I knew would be the case) the flange is about 4.5" above the subfloor. I am putting tile into the bathroom so I am assuming that between the backer board and tile I will make up some of that distance but clearly not all of it.

So my question is how do I go about making up the rest of it. Do I need to build up a small platform for the toilet to sit on or is there any toilets that have a recessed connection for the flange for this type of situation. Or are there any other options that I am not aware of?

As always any input is appreciated.

Kelrock

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Alan

I would say you need to build another floor system on top of what you already have. I'm no carpenter, but 2x4 dimensional lumber will make up 3.5", 3/4" T/G floor sheeting will bring you to 4.25, which will get you pretty darn close once you put backerboard and tile on it. This all assuming that this is an appropriate way to do things.

If your flange ends up a little low, thats even OK. We sometimes double up wax rings or if you don't like that idea, they make risers that you can glue and screw onto the flange to raise it to the appropriate height.


Hope that helps.


Edit : Is that waferboard just sitting on the concrete? I somehow think that you're supposed to have pressure treated between concrete and raw wood, but maybe someone else will chime in on that.

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Termite

Alan has a pretty good idea going. Since the option of correctly plumbing it isn't happening, I'd say you'll have to raise the floor level. If it were me, I'd raise the entire bath's floor level, not just the water closet's. Use treated 2x4's to frame the structure.

As for the OSB, hopefully it isn't just plain OSB sitting on concrete because that won't last long. They do make 2x2' T&G OSB subfloor squares that have plastic on their underside, which are intended to fur up concrete floors to apply wood floors, etc. Hopefully that's what we're seeing there.

kelrock

Yes that is what your seeing there on the concrete. Its Dricore brand subfloor.

"Since the option of correctly plumbing it isn't happening" - just curious how would you have done this?

47_47

Where your vent / sink drain ties into the toilet drain is this a sanitary tee?

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What we've got here is... failure to communicate. Some men you just can't reach. So you get what we had here last week, which is the way he wants it... well, he gets it.

kelrock

Yes its a sanitary tee.

Termite

No offense intended. This is an installation that would typically utilize an ejector pump in order to get the pipes set at the appropriate levels, whereas you can't really do it by gravity. Was backflow protection taken into consideration if you're below the sewer's upstream manhole? That sanitary tee appears to be on its back as well.

Ron The Plumber

Vertical drain into a horizontal drain must enter into a wye fitting, that san-tee is not allowed, and the distance from you sink drain to the vent is too far, max distance on trap arm to vent for 1-1/2" is 3' 6" or 5' for a 2" trap arm, it looks like your too far. away from the vent.

You need to rethink what your doing.

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Ron The Plumber

Need new pictures of the sink stub ouit area, it appears the have a vent near it, but can't make it out, what is it that black looking on the sink stub out.

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Alan

Not only that, but the trap arm for his Lav is going 270* when only 90* is allowed without a cleanout. I wasn't going to pick apart his code violations, but assuming he wants to actually do it right........

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kelrock

You cant see it but there is a vent and a clean out on the sink drain so from what I can gather my code violation right now is not having a wye fitting for where the vertical drain coinnects to the horizontal. Also a check valve might be required.

Thanks for the input guys....any thoughts though on what my original question was regarding whether or not there are any other options other than building the floor up to accomodate the raised flange?

sevver

Dude, you already have the floor busted out. Dig a hole and put a pit in and be done with it already. This also keeps the chance of a main sewer backup from reaching your basement. Whatever you save by not putting in a pit you will spend on lumber and trying to make something work that isn't going to be a good job. Cutting corners seldom is worth the effort.

Alan

In that case, wet venting is limited to vertical drainage. Your Lav drain is horizontal.

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Termite

Sevver's right. You're going to regret not putting an ejector in, especially when you someday try to sell the place with the toilet plumbed like that. There isn't really another option besides framing that floor up.