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Old 12-04-2009, 08:34 PM   #1
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


I am not sure what the guy did but all of the copper joints have heavy green corrosion and some leakage. Also poor run-joints anyway.

Since I already have a crimper, I thought I would just run it all in pex.

3/4 copper to bathroom (shower)
1/2 copper from shower to sink
1/2 copper to toilet from sink.
(he had y adapter to run hot and cold to the toilet)

I am going to leave the shower for now.
Run 1/2 pex from the 1/2 copper pipe and then run to the sink and T to the toilet.
I was planning on using copper stub-outs. Not sure if I should add a hammer arrestor?? Is this typical for the sink and toilet? Or only when needed. if I need the arrestor I might just pre-sweat and make my own stub-out/arrestor.

Do I need to Y the hot and cold for the toilet?

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Old 12-04-2009, 09:31 PM   #2
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


Why in the world would he wye the hot and cold together to go to the toilet? Now youve got your hot and cold tied together which means your hot wont be as hot as it should and your cold may be warm in some if not all fixtures. Hot and cold dont typically tie together and if they do then check valves are needed. Toilets get COLD water. Hammer arrestors are nice to have, but not always necessary in a bathroom. If you do install an arrestor be sure you have access to it for replacement when it fails.

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Old 12-04-2009, 10:04 PM   #3
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


Unless you have a bidet...........
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Old 12-04-2009, 10:26 PM   #4
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


The Y was a purchased item.
It is marked "hot" "cold"
It is a cast part, maybe it has an internal check valve.

I am going to price the copper/pex stub outs.
If there are expensive, I will just make my own with an arrestor.
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Old 12-05-2009, 04:43 AM   #5
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


I still dont understand why you'd run hot or even tempered water to the toilet. I guess maybe to keep your tank from sweating, but in all the years I've been plumbing I've never done that. Dave mentioned a bidet. You arent putting one of those in are you? Or perhaps a washlet seat that has an integrated spray arm for washing "parts"?
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Old 12-05-2009, 06:42 AM   #6
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


Running both to the toilet is to keep the toilet from sweating. I've mostly seen plumbers run just the hot to the toilet.
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Old 12-05-2009, 09:32 AM   #7
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


This is just a plain jane crapper
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Old 12-06-2009, 06:31 AM   #8
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


Quote:
Running both to the toilet is to keep the toilet from sweating. I've mostly seen plumbers run just the hot to the toilet.
I am a plumber and have NEVER run hot to a toilet. Yeah I've heard of running tempered water to keep a tank from sweating, but that is such a rarity. Even if you did need to do that then a tempering valve and not a wye would need to be installed.

Another thought....The only copper wyes I've seen are DWV fittings. Any chance of a picture forthcoming? I'm interested in actually seeing this setup.
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Old 12-06-2009, 10:17 AM   #9
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


Heavy green shi..stuff is from sloppy plumbing work. Good plumbers clean a new sweated joint after cooling them. The crud will over time attack the soldered joint (white crusty stuff) and lead to leaks. I hate seeing this as it takes little time to wipe down your joints while your right there. Haste makes waste as the saying goes.
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Old 12-06-2009, 10:38 AM   #10
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


Quote:
Originally Posted by JDC View Post
I am a plumber and have NEVER run hot to a toilet. Yeah I've heard of running tempered water to keep a tank from sweating, but that is such a rarity. Even if you did need to do that then a tempering valve and not a wye would need to be installed.

Another thought....The only copper wyes I've seen are DWV fittings. Any chance of a picture forthcoming? I'm interested in actually seeing this setup.
I'm also a plumber (here on the east coast). This (I think) is the "y" he's referring to:

http://www.drillspot.com/products/41...t_Toilet_Valve

Yes, they have integral check valves. Typically, if the house is served by a well, I'll put in the mixing valves because the water comes out of the ground at about 40*F. And when you're on the coast in the summer, the humid air will make a toilet sweat like you wouldn't believe. I get calls for "major leaks" every summer only to realize after I get there it's just condensation (usually from a flapper that's running by causing a steady stream of cold water throught the tank and bowl). I've also seen floors so badly dry rotted from years of sweating that they had to repair/replace the floors before I could fix the problem (rocking toilet).

But you're right, JDC, I've never seen or heard of a plumber intentionally running just hot water to a toilet. I've seen it done in error, and I can tell you what that does to the wax ring.

thedudenator: Another way to avoid sweating, is to just get a toilet with an insulated tank (usually a strofoam liner inside the tank). The chrome water supply under the toilet will still sweat, but the tank will stay dry (or at least comparatively so).

Last edited by Ishmael; 12-06-2009 at 10:43 AM.
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Old 12-06-2009, 10:01 PM   #11
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


I was at Menards today.
I just bought the stub outs, they were cheap.
I do need to get new valves, but wasn't sure what was the best.

I was thinking 1/2 compression with 1/2 thread attachment. But they did not have these in 90 degrees.

I also bought plastic Pex 90 degree and T's. They were cheaper then the copper fittings.
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Old 12-06-2009, 10:03 PM   #12
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


Is there anything I can do with the green stuff?
I have some plumbing I am not planning on changing, but want to clean it up and inspect it.
Can I clean it up to prevent any further damage??

I was messing with a ball valve today and the handle fell off (rot) This area is part of the replacement portion.
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Old 12-07-2009, 12:47 AM   #13
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


You can clean up the green stuff with sand/emery cloth. You'll probably find the copper to be a little pitted where the green stuff once was, and those pitted spots may eventually become pinhole leaks. If you have access to the area this would probably be the best approach since you can fix it after it proves to be a problem. If you're going to conceal it in a wall or ceiling, you should probably cut it out now and replace it.

As someone mentioned earlier, it's just sloppy soldering technique - they used gobs and gobs of soldering paste and didn't clean the joint when they were done. The acid was left to eat away at the pipe. If you do any soldering, a thin film (i.e. - barely visible) on the end of the pipe and inside the fitting is all that's necessary; and always wipe the joint with a clean rag when it's done.
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Old 12-07-2009, 07:18 PM   #14
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


I am not sure if I am up to sanding by cleaning.
I was thinking of something I can spray and wide to neutralize it.
It will be in the unfinished basement, so it will not be covered.
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Old 12-07-2009, 11:04 PM   #15
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Fixing a bad bathroom plumbing job with Pex


I'd try CLR. Don't forget the gloves. See if it works.

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