 |
|
11-20-2010, 09:40 PM
|
#1
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 42
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
What size holes should I drill for 1/2 copper supply lines penetrating 2x top plates and sole plates and how should they be firestopped.
Thanks
|
|
|
Warning: The topics covered on this site include activities in which there exists the potential for serious injury or death. DIYChatroom.com DOES NOT guarantee the accuracy or completeness of any information contained on this site. Always use proper safety precaution and reference reliable outside sources before attempting any home improvement task!
11-20-2010, 11:45 PM
|
#2
|
|
call me E
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Idaho
Posts: 3,899
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
I normally drill 1 3/8" holes. Several methods of firestop are available. Fire caulk is common. What rating are you trying to achieve?
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 12:31 AM
|
#3
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 44
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
I like to use 1 1/4 holes my self so I can take the orange CPVC pipe and push it threw the hole, than use just regular fire caulk. It passed TN 1hour guidelines. But keep in mind we were drilling threw concrete and precast floors. stick with your local code, and ask the fire marshel what he wants.
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 01:09 AM
|
#4
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 601
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
like eplumber, i use 1 3/8" holes. use a pound in pipe support then fill with firecaulk behind so that you get the fire rating and still have support on the pipe until it dries
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 11:40 AM
|
#5
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 42
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheEplumber
I normally drill 1 3/8" holes. Several methods of firestop are available. Fire caulk is common. What rating are you trying to achieve?
|
I am guessing you are also using the pound in insulators like the_man before you apply the fire caulk. Is this correct?
Regarding the rating, I could not find anything in the California Code Check that called out a minimum rating.
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 11:42 AM
|
#6
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 42
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
Quote:
Originally Posted by immeraufdemhund
I like to use 1 1/4 holes my self so I can take the orange CPVC pipe and push it threw the hole, than use just regular fire caulk. It passed TN 1hour guidelines. But keep in mind we were drilling threw concrete and precast floors. stick with your local code, and ask the fire marshel what he wants.
|
What is orange CPVC pipe?
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 11:54 AM
|
#7
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 42
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_man
like eplumber, i use 1 3/8" holes. use a pound in pipe support then fill with firecaulk behind so that you get the fire rating and still have support on the pipe until it dries
|
I have some Oatey 1/2 pipe insulators, but did not think I would be permitted to use them. I see they would fill 1-1/4 of the 1-1/2 plate, which would leave 1/4 of space for intumescent sealant . I also see from the specifications for intumescent sealant that 1/4 is enough. I like the idea of using the Oatey 1/2 pipe insulators in 1-3/8 holes and filling the rest of the opening with intumescent sealant.
Sounds like I am good to go unless someone sees a problem with this. Thanks everyone so far for the responses.
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 12:01 PM
|
#8
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 601
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
maybe i'm wrong, but the fire stop on the wall is the 5/8 rock (one or two layers) and the 2x has nothing to do with it. if you use the insulator on the inside of the wall and caulk the fire barrier you should be good to go. anyone else know for sure?
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 02:02 PM
|
#9
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 452
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...h+Penetrations
www.3M.com/firestop
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_man
maybe i'm wrong, but the fire stop on the wall is the 5/8 rock (one or two layers) and the 2x has nothing to do with it. if you use the insulator on the inside of the wall and caulk the fire barrier you should be good to go. anyone else know for sure?
|
Yes you are wrong. Firestop material is to prevent fire from enerting a stud bay, chase, plenum or joist space, and spreading to another space or floor.
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 02:13 PM
|
#10
|
|
Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 44
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire4Effect
What is orange CPVC pipe?
|
http://www.harvelsprinklerpipe.com/
this stuff
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 02:22 PM
|
#11
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 601
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anti-wingnut
|
i'm aware of what firestop material does, and reading thru the links you provided a min of 5/8" thickness of material is needed. if that is applied on the gypsum side of the barrier, it would not need to penetrate into the 2x4. unless i'm missing something, then you'd be able to use the pound in pipe insulator to center the pipe and provide stability
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 02:31 PM
|
#12
|
|
Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 452
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_man
unless i'm missing something
|
You're missing the fact that the OP is penetrating a floor assembly, which apparently must be fire caulked to some degree.
The Op is not clear on the rating and separation of his floor assembly, except that it is wood framed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fire4Effect
What size holes should I drill for 1/2 copper supply lines penetrating 2x top plates and sole plates and how should they be firestopped.
Thanks
|
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 07:14 PM
|
#13
|
|
Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Posts: 601
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
Quote:
Originally Posted by Anti-wingnut
You're missing the fact that the OP is penetrating a floor assembly, which apparently must be fire caulked to some degree.
The Op is not clear on the rating and separation of his floor assembly, except that it is wood framed
|
yea, i thought it was walls, not floor. but does it really change anything? the sheeting, whether its plywood osb or gypsum is the fire barrier not the 2x4. is firestop material that is thicker than the sheeting needed?
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 09:24 PM
|
#14
|
|
Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 42
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
Quote:
Originally Posted by the_man
yea, i thought it was walls, not floor. but does it really change anything? the sheeting, whether its plywood osb or gypsum is the fire barrier not the 2x4. is firestop material that is thicker than the sheeting needed?
|
The penetrations that need firestopped are at the sole plates and top plates. The red X in the photo below marks the spot where the 1/2 copper water supply line for the toilet will penetrate the sole plate.
|
|
|
11-21-2010, 10:45 PM
|
#15
|
|
call me E
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Idaho
Posts: 3,899
|
Firestopping Plumbing Supply Lines
So far you've only asked about copper lines but have you considered fire caulking the toilet vent? ABS is not allowed through fire rated assemblies either. You can transition to cast iron for 12" each side of the hole.
|
|
|
-->
| Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
|