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mfleming 05-04-2008 12:45 AM

Faucet Repair Questions?
 
I'm installing a new Meon faucet and adding in shutoff valves.

I have 1/2" PEX Pipe joined to a 1/2" PEX to 3/8" Comp threaded with bolt and brass ring. Also I have I have 1/2" flexible tubbing that came with the faucet and I also bought the 20" flexible tubing to connect the faucet to the shutoff valve.

My Questions:

  1. For the threaded connection from the 20" flex tubing (SS nut, brass ring and rubber seal inside) to the 3/8" shutoff valve is it code/should I use Teflon tape for the threads or is the rubber seal inside the nut enough or any other thread sealant compound?
  2. If my faucet has a rubber seal around the base should I still use plumbers putty to fill the gaps when attaching it to the sink?
  3. I have installed shutoff valves in my bathrooms. It has 1/2" PEX into the 1/2" PEX shutoff valve to 3/8" Comp and then 3/8" copper to taps. Currently there is some kind of existing green paste in the copper/brass seal portion that would connect to the 3/8" threaded portion of the shutoff valve.
    1. Should I remove the old nut and brass seal off the copper and use the new one that came with the shutoff valve or does it matter?
    2. Should I just use Teflon tape on the connection from the copper/nut to the threaded portion of the shutoff valve or use joint thread sealant stuff that I have picked up?
  4. I need a fourth hole in my sink. Does Home Depot or Rona rent out CHASSIS-KNOCKOUT PUNCHES (http://www.radiodaze.com/tooltool.htm). Has anyone done this before?
  5. I have a pullout sprayer on my taps. Can I buy some kind of counter weight as for pulling it back in after use. Its kind of pain. Also it doesn't come out properly. The tubing is curled up and gets kinked if pulled out to far, is there something I could buy so its on some kinda of wheel or spindle or something?

Sorry for the million questions I just want to do this right the first time around.


Thanks

Matt

Ron The Plumber 05-05-2008 08:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mfleming (Post 120870)
I'm installing a new Meon faucet and adding in shutoff valves.

I have 1/2" PEX Pipe joined to a 1/2" PEX to 3/8" Comp threaded with bolt and brass ring. Also I have I have 1/2" flexible tubbing that came with the faucet and I also bought the 20" flexible tubing to connect the faucet to the shutoff valve.

My Questions:

  1. For the threaded connection from the 20" flex tubing (SS nut, brass ring and rubber seal inside) to the 3/8" shutoff valve is it code/should I use Teflon tape for the threads or is the rubber seal inside the nut enough or any other thread sealant compound?
  2. If my faucet has a rubber seal around the base should I still use plumbers putty to fill the gaps when attaching it to the sink?
  3. I have installed shutoff valves in my bathrooms. It has 1/2" PEX into the 1/2" PEX shutoff valve to 3/8" Comp and then 3/8" copper to taps. Currently there is some kind of existing green paste in the copper/brass seal portion that would connect to the 3/8" threaded portion of the shutoff valve.
    1. Should I remove the old nut and brass seal off the copper and use the new one that came with the shutoff valve or does it matter?
    2. Should I just use Teflon tape on the connection from the copper/nut to the threaded portion of the shutoff valve or use joint thread sealant stuff that I have picked up?
  4. I need a fourth hole in my sink. Does Home Depot or Rona rent out CHASSIS-KNOCKOUT PUNCHES (http://www.radiodaze.com/tooltool.htm). Has anyone done this before?
  5. I have a pullout sprayer on my taps. Can I buy some kind of counter weight as for pulling it back in after use. Its kind of pain. Also it doesn't come out properly. The tubing is curled up and gets kinked if pulled out to far, is there something I could buy so its on some kinda of wheel or spindle or something?

Sorry for the million questions I just want to do this right the first time around.


Thanks

Matt


1. No Pipe Dope
2. Not Needed
3.1 and 3.2 Use New SS flex line, don't use copper from the stops to the faucet.
4. What type of sink is this?
5. Sure be creative, a few large nuts slipped over the hose should give it some weight.

mfleming 05-05-2008 11:12 PM

Thanks for your help.

I'm going to use a step bit to drill from 1 to 1/2" then 1/2" to 1-1/4". I have heard this works very well on sinks and cuts through easily.

I have Moen sinks and faucets. My bathroom sinks have copper from the taps to shutoff valve. I didn't replace the copper and I just installed the nut over the brass ferrule with a little plumbers glue /w teflone (not needed but they sometimes can leak this makes it so I don't have to do it twice.)

mfleming 05-07-2008 09:44 AM

I have successfully drilled a 1-1/8" hole in my stainless steel sink for the soap dispenser. I purchased 3 bits. The first one I used was a Carbide 3/16" bit designed for stainless steel from Home Depot $15. Then I used a 0-1/2" step bit (spade looking) made for steel/plastic also from Home Depot. $30. Then I used a 1/2" to 1-1/8" step bit made for steel/plastic from Home Depot. $45.

I used a 18V Dewalt cordless drill and car motor oil to cool the bits.

These bits cut through the sink and the wood below like butter.

Hopefully this helps out anyone who wants to do this.

Matt


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