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Old 03-25-2012, 10:12 PM   #1
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Fall on sewer pipe?


What does the plumbing code require for the "fall or pitch" of sewer pipe.
Prefer X inches in 5 feet understand it's 4 degrees. Don't know how to convert.
Also how is the easiest way to check for leaks prior to concrete is poured.
Done some plumbing on mobile homes but not in a slab where you only get one shot to get it right.

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Old 03-25-2012, 10:29 PM   #2
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Fall on sewer pipe?


Standard is 1/4" per foot. There are circumstances where 1/8" per foot is permitted.

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Old 03-27-2012, 11:15 AM   #3
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Fall on sewer pipe?


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Also how is the easiest way to check for leaks prior to concrete is poured.
Done some plumbing on mobile homes but not in a slab where you only get one shot to get it right.
You're going to need a double test ball and Y. Use it as shown in the middle pic and then the piece where the test ball enters can be used as clean out after the system is complete.



Now for a pressure test you'll need to find the highest point in the drainage system and install a temporary 10' piece. This is accomplished by the use of a fernco type coupling. Fill with a garden hose till full and test for 15 min checking for leaks (it may take a while depending on the size of the drain system so be patient). You'll know it's leaking if the water level drops dramatically or never fills completely.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:44 AM   #4
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Fall on sewer pipe?


I guess the 10' pipe is for water pressure because of the weight of the water column.
Can you get a screw in fitting with a water hose attachment. Would be easier to plug one end and hook hose up. Do they make such a fitting. Just don't want any surprises! Gets expensive to fix a slab leak.
I have seen plumbers put a square in the bathroom floor before the slab was poured to bring plumbinp thru. Why would they do that? They pack fill in it. Only saw it a few times. I was a floor installer. Like they weren't sure of their placement of the rough in.
BTW what is normal stub up for the toilet from the wall. I think it's 12" to edge, is that right? I know you can get an offset to correct but that's a clog waiting to happen to me.
Thanks again!
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:19 PM   #5
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Fall on sewer pipe?


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I guess the 10' pipe is for water pressure because of the weight of the water column.
Exactly.

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Can you get a screw in fitting with a water hose attachment. Would be easier to plug one end and hook hose up. Do they make such a fitting. Just don't want any surprises! Gets expensive to fix a slab leak.
So you want to just fill through the plug? Sure they do but in order to test properly you'll that 10' piece to test properly. As for a slab leak you only need test the new drainage and that's why I suggested installing a Y fitting, easy insertion point for the test ball and then it can be used as cleanout afterwards.

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I have seen plumbers put a square in the bathroom floor before the slab was poured to bring plumbinp thru. Why would they do that? They pack fill in it. Only saw it a few times. I was a floor installer. Like they weren't sure of their placement of the rough in.
Actually they were boxing out for a tub drain. The trap would be in/under the slab and as it goes in after the pour they'll need space to install it.

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BTW what is normal stub up for the toilet from the wall. I think it's 12" to edge, is that right? I know you can get an offset to correct but that's a clog waiting to happen to me.
Stub up or out? Stub out is normally 12" from finished wall to center of drain. Stub up is flush with finished flooring surface. I highlighted finished as I have seen too many instances where people have forgotten about drywall/tile, etc... on the wall or tile/stone, etc... on the floor and have had to redo or hack it into place. Either alternative is not pretty.

Good luck and let us know how you get on.
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:56 PM   #6
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Fall on sewer pipe?


Meant rough-in.
Now I understand the dirt box. Will use that.
I meant plug as you said, seal the vents, add water and red food coloring and use the hose to pressurize the system. "Flush out any leaks" (good pun, huh?).
All runs will be total under 15' including small sink drains. Is this overkill? Your way is cheaper. Just don't want any leaks.
How do I check Pex hookups. Am going to run main in slab, rest in wall. All plumb in 1 wall. How do I plug the end to fill and pressure test it? Is there a plug for it? Like make end connection and cap one end and hose to the other?
Thanks for your help.
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Old 03-27-2012, 04:56 PM   #7
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Fall on sewer pipe?


Quote:
I meant plug as you said, seal the vents, add water and red food coloring and use the hose to pressurize the system. "Flush out any leaks" (good pun, huh?). All runs will be total under 15' including small sink drains. Is this overkill? Your way is cheaper. Just don't want any leaks.
The test caps that you use should be these ones,
and they should be on every open drainage point, except the highest point & the spot where the test ball is used in the new portion of the drainage system. Coloured dye is one good way to check for leaks. (Nice pun by the way ). This is the way all new drainage should be tested, so no I don't think that this is overkill. I imagine that all of the new drains & vents are fully accessible so now is time to checks for leaks.

When putting together a drainage system I cannot stress enough that the proper preparation involved in order to make it successful the first time.
- Allow for the depth of the fitting. Take 1 1/2" ABS for example. Now the fitting allowance (depth) on a joint for this particular size is 3/4" so the pipe must be pushed in that much at each joint for that size. Mark the fitting allowance at the pipe end and make certain that's what you achieve when assembling the connection. I use a white sharpie for ABS and a black one on PVC.
- Dry fitting. This is a good way to hook it all up and see what you've got so far. Insert just enough so it will hold, too much and you'll have a hell of a time trying to get it apart. Dry fitting also helps when trying to achieve the right slope and trying to get level for drains, etc... Get it set up properly, then mark pipe on both the fitting & pipe, pull apart, glue up, insert & twist 1/4 turn and hold for 30 secs.
- Twisting pipe & holding when gluing. This the is the major reason for failure at the joints. The glue is dissolving (ie - bonding) the pipe together and will actually push the pipe apart. So by twisting as you insert the pipe into the fitting you'll be lodging it in deeper and by holding it for 30 secs you'll be keeping it from separating.

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How do I check Pex hookups. Am going to run main in slab, rest in wall. All plumb in 1 wall. How do I plug the end to fill and pressure test it?
There are 2 ways to check pex for leaks, with water or air. I usually test with air, especially in a reno situation as it's less messy if there is a leak. There are pex caps available for testing purposes and you'd just just leave one end uncapped in order to hook up the hose or compressor w/ gauge and fill 'er up. Our code requires it be pressurized and hold at 101.5 psi hold for 2 hours with no pressure drop when using air. For water it's to be pressurized to maximum working pressure (supply pressure) without leaking. If renting or buying a pex tool it should come with a go-no-go gauge. Use it to check the rings after you've crimped, and to check that the tool is adjusted properly. One handy tip I use is to mark each ring after I've crimped with whatever you like. That way you have an immediate visual that it's been done. I usually use a check mark.

You mention that you're going to run the pex in the slab. What do you mean? Up through the slab? If so then you'll want run it up in a sleeve (ABS) in order to protect the pex as water flows through it from rubbing on the concrete and causing it to burst.
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Old 03-28-2012, 01:12 AM   #8
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Fall on sewer pipe?


THANKS for the info. I know about glueing and the fittings slipping back if you don't hold it.
Also know to dryfit and mark depth and reference marks to align everything.
I ran out of space but I was planning to use a "raceway" of PVC or ABS. Not for your reason, just didn't know that, but figured if it ever leaked I could pull a replacement thru.
Great Info, many thanks!
Never put plumbing in a slab, just raised foundations. I look for a potential problem and try to fix it before it happens.
Thanks again!
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Old 03-28-2012, 09:17 PM   #9
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Fall on sewer pipe?


You're welcome.

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