Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?

RFWWorker

I have never used toilet paper and I don't think it will break down as easy as bread (Don't use the crust). I think you could spare a $1.00 to buy a loaf of bread, or ask a neighbor for a piece.

jagans

Last picture: Now your talkin Thats clean. You want to flux it right away.

Do NOT wipe the joint with a damp cloth when it is hot. This can crystallize the solder and cause cracks. You want the solder to cool gradually. By all means wash the flux off with warm water and soap once it has cooled.

You should see the solder liquify and pull itself right into the joint.

Do not use excessive heat. It defeats the flux.

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BigJim

I learned something new today, I didn't know about not cooling off a joint with a wet cloth, that is the reason my shower head fitting leaked. I always flux the pipe, and inside the fitting. I had to buy more flux on my project and notice a lot of difference in them, one is white and a little thin and the other is sort a thick and like a sticky paste wax but both are water soluable. Now back to our regular scheduled program.

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Jim

TheEplumber

The key is timing- let the solder set first before touching it with a damp or dry rag. I don't recall having solder fail due to a damp rag, but I have had them fail because the fitting was bumped prior to the solder setting- and it only takes a wiggle

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BigJim

For some reason I have problems sweating a fitting that is thick like the shower head fitting, at first I thought it was because I got the fitting too hot, I am using mapps gas.

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Jim

Nailbags

Best way to learn and it will cost you money to do so but you will be able to tackle it. go get yourself some copper pipe 2" min a bunch of fittings 90's street 90's 1/4 bends 1/8' bends T's and so forth. put the pipe in a vice have a say one foot piece then have it prepped fitting on have the join were it is easy to work with like facing down solder it let it cool take it out cut the fitting off then hack saw it in half so you can see how it flowed in to the joint. do this in all positions vertical horizontal over head and cut open the fittings length wise so you can see your mistakes. when you get solder to flow in to the joints evenly every time then you can say you can solder. That is how my dad taught me and my brother how to solder. Now I just use shark bites and for get about the hassle.

Red Squirrel

That's good to know, I thought it had to be done right away and I was rushing at it, good to know I can wait till after. I'll also slow down on the heat, I had the flame right in there, I should probably keep distance a bit more I guess. Within 5-10 secs I was able to start soldering. I'm pretty confident now, just need to do a pressure test and think I'll be good to do it for real.

oh'mike

With the thick,cast fittings. Aim the torch at the fitting first--then as it heats, move it to the torch closer to the joint between the two parts.

Experience will tell you how much extra heat the thicker one needs
before you move the torch---I tap the solder to the joint (on the cool side,away from the torch) as I heat---when the solder melts--one or two more seconds and I solder it up.

Be careful with the wiping---let the solder set first---one little jiggle can spoil a joint----Just wipe the flux off ---

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Red Squirrel

I pressure tested my practice setup and no leaks!



Going to do it for real tomorrow and get the job done. At least now I can say I'm setup for this so when it comes up in the future I will feel confident to do it, instead of fearing it.

Also want to find a pressure regulator and install that, as my pressure is very high. At least I'll find out, since I also want to install a pressure gauge. Going to order that off ebay as can't seem to find any here.

BigJim

That is what I did wrong, I wiped with a wet rag and move the fitting before it cooled off.

One thing I am overly cautious about is fire, I have a small square deal that has aluminum on both sides and some type of insulation inside, you can literally place it on your hand and hit it with the torch without it burning you. I have used it so much to keep fire off the studs it is starting to fall apart. I wrapped it with regular tin foil and good as new.

Red, if you can do that good, you got it whipped.

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Jim

digitalplumber

RS, are you wiping the joint before it totally dries for a really nice fininsh? If yes make sure you wipe down, in and towards fitting for a realy nice pro looking finish.

Obviously you will need to be wearing gloves.

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Red Squirrel

For that one it was just a quick wipe TBH, I realized after the fact that I did not wipe enough as my hands get all sticky when I handle it. Was using an old rag with some water.

TheEplumber

What did you think of the pre soldered cap?

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Red Squirrel

It was actually kinda weird to use because I was not able to sand the inside properly. It would not go in all the way (did not realize this at first) and while I was soldering it fell in. Good thing I used it on my test setup first and it only fell in because the pipe was pointing up. Was the first one I did and it held up though! I ended up using non soldered ends after. I found them when I went to get more fittings.

Now, for the real thing:



No leaks, water turned back on and all! And boy, did not realize the residual water was THAT much of a pain in the ass. I forgot to buy bread so I was shoving paper towels and stuff up there and they'd always come back out soak. Long story short, ended up having to hold the air compressor hose to the laundry tub hose with hot water faucet turned on (most direct path to the pipe I was working on) and drying out the whole pipe with air.

But all and all, job's now done and it is holding up! Ended up not cutting it where I originally wanted as it was too close to the laundry tub (plastic) so I just cut it after the 90. As long as I got the end out of the wall on the other side is all that matters as it was in the way of framing. That wall wont be framed for now, due to the electrical panel.

TarheelTerp

If someone else is buying your acid brushes...
a wipe over the joint with a fluxy brush will make a nice blending job.