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Old 01-30-2013, 11:44 AM   #16
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


Also make sure not to burn your house down. Sometimes it's easy to forget that the flame isn't just heating the pipe but also... shooting flame at what's behind / around it!

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Old 01-30-2013, 11:54 AM   #17
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


Just a suggestion--If you haven't purchased a torch yet----buy one with a hose---

They are so much easier to use than the tank mounted ones----easier to get into tight spaces--no flame changes because the tank is tipped---good useable ones cost $40 or so----

Also --BoB Man made a good point---have plenty of scrap steel available as fire blocking/heat shields-----flat electric box covers work well---the ears allow you to temporaraly screw the plate in place---------
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Old 01-30-2013, 01:56 PM   #18
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


Metal is a conductor A piece of AB siding Stratolite or Transite works really well. Now called GAF Weatherlite.

No its not friable.
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:11 PM   #19
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


Why dont you just use CPVC and Flowguard gold primer and glue? I like soldering, but it does have a learning curve. Yes PEX is the latest and greatest thing, but something about crimped on fittings gives me the willies, but I guess it should'nt, as this technology has been used in Europe for years.

There is just something solid about L Copper.
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Old 01-30-2013, 02:28 PM   #20
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


It's right against the cinder block so cutting may be tricky but wont have to worry about flammability. If I do this in copper it's just cutting a pipe and recapping it (it's already capped but it passes through a wall that I will be modifying) but anything new I add I go with pex and crimp fittings. I was kinda weary too about crimp fittings but they seem to be tested and true and none of the ones I made have leaked or let go yet. Hopefully never will. :P

Going to head to HD to buy some copper fittings and pipe to practice on first. I'll get a fitting that will fit on the faucet so I can pressurize it to test. I might try to make something useful like a radiator or something. If I can do all those elbows without leaks then I should be good.

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Old 01-30-2013, 02:39 PM   #21
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


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Originally Posted by TheBobmanNH View Post
Also make sure not to burn your house down. Sometimes it's easy to forget that the flame isn't just heating the pipe but also... shooting flame at what's behind / around it!
I sweat as much as I can out in the garage, even trying to get angled pieces just right.

I don't believe even a half assed sweat job will burst if it isn't leaking to start with.

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Old 01-30-2013, 03:45 PM   #22
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


If there is water in that cinder block it can explode in your face if you hit it with a torch, grasshopper.

Kind of like a Hand Grenade. Use CPVC, or Pex. Much better for rookies, You can fix PEX wet, and no waiting for glue to dry. Just make sure you read up on it, fully engage your fittings, and use US made crimp rings. Im sure even that market has been invaded, as I hear of out of round ones.

Any Suggestions from the pros here? Nibco?

Hint: Pex Supply Online.
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Old 01-30-2013, 04:45 PM   #23
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


The white bread is a great way to eliminate the minor drips that can cause problems. Stuff it in and solder soon. Do not use the kind of bread your wife may buy (coarse ground all grain) since it takes for than a minute to flush through cleanly.

I was once afraid to sweat a joint, but now I look for an excuse to do one and then make the job look perfect with the the cosmetic wiping.

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Old 01-30-2013, 05:43 PM   #24
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


Quote:
Originally Posted by jagans
Why dont you just use CPVC and Flowguard gold primer and glue? I like soldering, but it does have a learning curve. Yes PEX is the latest and greatest thing, but something about crimped on fittings gives me the willies, but I guess it should'nt, as this technology has been used in Europe for years.

There is just something solid about L Copper.
So what you are saying if you have a spot the copper is bad. Cut it out and install pex or CPVC there. Well that fine but if it a old house the water line are the ground. Now you won't have a good ground. You must put a ground wire from one side of the copper to the other side of the copper. Or you must install grounding rod.
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:19 PM   #25
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


I do have a pex crimper/rings and done some pex before so I'm fairly comfortable with it and so far none of my work has let go or leaked. Anything new I add is pex, but to make such a simple change as to put a cap to a setup that is all copper it makes more sense to just learn to do it properly.

Good to know about the exploding cinder blocks. That spot did leak before I got the outside seal and weeping tiles redone, so there is the potential that there is water, though it probably would have drained by now. Is there a good indicator as to if there's water in there? Though, how long do I normally have to heat a fitting? It's not like I'm holding the torch there more than like 30 seconds right? Especially a cap I imagine it will warm up faster.

I just finished hauling 170 2x4's and 120 dricore tiles in the house so I'm too pooped to go anywhere, and can't because there's still another pallet in front of my car. So the practice session will wait till tomorrow.

Once I feel really comfortable then I'll do the pressure gauge (which I ordered) and I'll find a pressure reducer as well so I can lower my water pressure, which should help with previous issues I had such as getting a 1/4 pressure fitting to not leak.
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Old 01-30-2013, 06:55 PM   #26
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


I never timed it but 30 to 45 seconds sounds about right--I use MAP gas which is a bit hotter than propane---sure wish the old MAPP was available--the was considerable hotter.
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Old 01-30-2013, 07:23 PM   #27
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


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Originally Posted by oh'mike View Post
Just a suggestion--If you haven't purchased a torch yet----buy one with a hose---

They are so much easier to use than the tank mounted ones----easier to get into tight spaces--no flame changes because the tank is tipped---good useable ones cost $40 or so----

Also --BoB Man made a good point---have plenty of scrap steel available as fire blocking/heat shields-----flat electric box covers work well---the ears allow you to temporaraly screw the plate in place---------
+1 on that, for sure. not only that but trying to hold it upside down or at an angle in an awkward spot is tough on the ol' arm.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:06 AM   #28
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


If all you need to do is cap an already capped copper line a little further back then just turn off the water, cut the pipe, then pop on a $6 sharkbite brass end cap. No fuss, no sweat (pun intended), no hand grenades....
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...&storeId=10051

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Old 01-31-2013, 12:32 PM   #29
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


Something not mentioned yet is to wear some wraparound goggles. Hot flux tends to bubble and drip where you least expect it.
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Old 01-31-2013, 03:19 PM   #30
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Is it fairly easy to sweat copper if never done it before?


BTW..NPT means National Pipe Thread..which is what most standard fittings have.

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