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Old 03-12-2012, 02:39 PM   #1
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Erie Water Softener


Hi everyone, I posted a week or so ago about my softener not using salt. Thanks to your help we fixed that problem but then it was leaking out of the overflow on the brine tank. I was directed to possibly the injectors needing to be cleaned so I called a plumber. He came out and was not familiar with this type of softener. He put in in manual regeneration and said that the motor is kicking on but it's not doing anything after that. He called his parts supplier and he said it is probably the drive shaft not engaging. I've never heard it go through the entire cycle. I've only heard the motor kick on...but the fact that it was leaking after we broke up the salt crust - means to me that it had to have been working at least those two days. My question is...does it seem like that would be the next thing for me to look at replacing. So far, the guy that was going to find the part and call me back has not done so - so I'm wondering if I can just replace it myself.

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Old 03-12-2012, 03:00 PM   #2
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There is a drive or worm gear that erie uses in their valves.
That gear takes the motor rotation to the valve disc, it is possible that part is in need of replacement, I have seen them break or no longer hold the metal shaft of the motor ..
It all comes down to how handy are you? the Erie is a bit more of a challenge to work on than most of the others on the market.
Here is a link to some parts.
http://www.softenerparts.com/Erie_Co...parts_s/73.htm

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Old 03-12-2012, 03:51 PM   #3
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That's the same site I was on too. Yeah, I am pretty good at taking stuff apart...it's the putting back together part I'm not confident with. But I guess worse case scenario - it doesn't work now...so I can't make it any worse. Thanks!
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Old 03-12-2012, 04:36 PM   #4
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The biggest key is putting it back together is the reverse of taking it apart.
Some times taking a few photos of it as it is taken apart so that you can put it back together.
Writing down where the wire colors are at when changing a light switch.
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Old 03-12-2012, 07:48 PM   #5
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One thing I didn't think of...was the spewing water that would ensue...I took the valve cover off, removed the gear..and then quickly realized I didn't know what I was going to do when I removed everything. I was trying to find the driveshaft. Anyways, put it all back together, turned the main water on and my garage quickly filled with water. Took everything back off - noticed the o-ring fell out of place...put it back in bypass, put everything back together and at least no water...the part guy called and said that erie told him that something wasn't synchronized...that's there's some type of "button" that needs to be aligned...who knows. At this point, I'm not sure how much I want soft water.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:11 PM   #6
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Are you trying to talk your self out of working on your system?
Take your time in taking it apart, looking it over as you go, look at how the parts fit together as you take them apart so that you can put it back together again in the reverse of taking it apart.
There are those of us here that help out that might have it done is short order , it is only because we have done it over and over so many times ... but most any one can if they go slow look and study as they work through the system.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:20 PM   #7
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I guess I'm just frustrated. I took off the parts I could see to take off...but then looking at the diagram there are so many more parts that I couldn't even see. It scared me to not be able to shut the water off - thinking that I wouldn't have water in my whole house because I was trying to be a plumber. I'm not sure what part he was speaking of about synchronizing...I was in the middle of crisis mode at that point. I did take pictures as you mentioned to make sure I was removing and putting back accordingly. And not completely understanding how everything works puts me at a disadvantage. I'm certainly not looking for an easy way out. I'd much prefer do it myself as opposed to paying someone a lot of money for something I can do...and I love the feeling of accomplishment when I've done it myself. At this point I took off the valve cover and noticed another piece that I removed...but that got me nowhere. The water kept coming to the surface so I continued to empty it to see what layer was beneath that one. I'm just afraid to do more harm and not sure where to look next.
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Old 03-12-2012, 10:35 PM   #8
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Does the unit have a bypass that you can turn off the water flow through the unit?
Once the bypass has been closed and the unit depressurized there is little water, just the water that is in the valve body and the water in the media tank under the valve body.
The Water that you will deal with is in the valve body, maybe 2 cups.
If you have a table that you can lay out the new parts on and then set them in the same way that you find them in the valve body that should help.
http://www.softenerparts.com/v/vspfi...ages/568vb.jpg
Is this the valve part list that fits your system?
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Old 03-12-2012, 11:37 PM   #9
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Yes, it has the bypass and that's what I've done so far. I've taken the face plate off - and it's not back on. I don't have any new parts because no one is for sure what exactly is wrong with it. I took off the valve cover which had on it 4-8. I removed the rotor plate which seems to have permanently made my fingers black but didn't know if there was anything wrong with it or not. My goal was to get at the drive shaft. But after removing those things I had no idea how to go about getting to it. And then..what is it supposed to be doing or not doing? Does it look broken? I don't want to just order parts if that won't fix the issue. I even looked at the backwash flow control..but it was pretty tight in there with tape and I didn't want to mess with anything else at that point.
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Old 03-13-2012, 12:05 PM   #10
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Ok, let us kind of go back to the start.
The unit was not pulling the brine water from the brine tank, either the injector was/is pluged or there is a seal that is torn.
Depending on the age of the unit and the water quality equals in to when some of the plates and seals in the valve will need to be
replaced.
If the unit is 10 years old or so, and the water has iron along with the hardness then it might be a good idea to replace some of the inner
parts because of ware.
The folks at the link most likely would be able to tell you what parts are most likely at the top of the list for a rebuild of the valve, parts that are most likely to have problems and need replacement.
It has been awhile from the last time that I worked on the Erie and there are only a few around here.

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