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-   -   Elevate the toilet to run the drain? (http://www.diychatroom.com/f7/elevate-toilet-run-drain-67326/)

hohadcr 03-22-2010 09:02 AM

Elevate the toilet to run the drain?
 
the planned toilet drain is right above two big beams. One solution i thought about was elevate the floor to get some room to make some turn of the drain so i can get pass the beams.

So my question is, is this the way to do it? if so, how tall should i elevate the toilet floor? do i only turn 45 degress to avoid the beam?

Thurman 03-22-2010 09:42 AM

Let's answer the question "can a toiler be elevated"--Yes. I have done this. The situation was a basement where the floor level was higher than the septic tank. In order to get the proper slope and not to have to bust up concrete we created a "throne" for the toilet. This was an area approximately 6' wide x 4' deep, wall on one side, elevated tub on the other. Darn thing worked out pretty well. I would stay away from cutting the beams if possible. I don't see why you could not use a short stub (nipple) after the toilet flange, then a 45, another nipple, another 45 into the straight run. Use long sweep 45 ells if you can get them, makes the flow better on waste line. David

Alan 03-22-2010 10:21 AM

I can't honestly advise you without some sort of diagram.

DO NOT touch that beam. Under no circumstances.

jlhaslip 03-22-2010 11:22 AM

The basement bathroom in the house I currently live in had a 'throne' raised about 8 inches and worked fine.
During a slack yime in my schedule a couple of years ago, I busted out the concrete to add a shower stall and re-plumbed the toilet, so I can't measure the height.
The beam should not be cut or notched without advise from an engineer following an on-site inspection.

canadaclub 03-22-2010 09:07 PM

I'm with Alan..any pics or diagrams? Don't tamper with the beams. Worst case scenario is that you will have to construct a bulkhead in the floor below to accommodate the waste pipe. Not sure about where you are but here we have a 'guideline' of 1/4" for every 3 feet for an above grade 3" pipe...but the more the merrier.

tpolk 03-22-2010 09:45 PM

are they beams or floor joists? unusual to have two close together

plummen 03-22-2010 10:19 PM

i wouldnt use 45s ,too much slope in a short area seperates liquids from solids and will cause you grief later

canadaclub 03-22-2010 10:41 PM

Intersting post plummen..can you expand on that? I would think that more slope is good. 45 degrees seems gradual enough.

Alan 03-22-2010 10:47 PM

P.S. i've never heard of a long sweep 1/8 bend. Do they actually exist? :huh:

plummen 03-22-2010 10:48 PM

normally 1/4" per foot is about right for most interior plumbing.
if the liquids run away too quick the solids tend to build up,or so its been beatin into my head for last 30 years anyway.on a vert short run going directly into a stack it may not be so bad but on long stretches i think it would settle out easier. :wink:

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alan (Post 418376)
P.S. i've never heard of a long sweep 1/8 bend. Do they actually exist? :huh:

me neither,but i work in nebraska! :clap:

Alan 03-22-2010 10:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by plummen (Post 418380)
me neither,but i work in nebraska! :clap:

Well shucks, plumbing in nebraska is easy!! Just put a bucket next to the tub, and then dump it on the cornfield! :laughing:

plummen 03-22-2010 10:56 PM

youve obviously seen the videos! :laughing:

canadaclub 03-22-2010 11:02 PM

Hmmm..sounds corny,,lol

Jim F 03-24-2010 09:15 PM

The throne idea reminds me of a house I looked at. Up a short flight of stairs, 3-4 feet above the basement floor sat a toilet on a wooden deck. I didn't try it out but it looked like if you stood up you would hit your head on the suspended ceiling. There were no other fixtures, just a toilet. The realtor actually listed it as a 1/2 bath. The story goes, the current owner liked to work in his basement shop but did not want to goe upstairs to use the john. I guess he kept some waterless hand cleaner nearby as well.:laughing:

hohadcr 03-29-2010 08:31 AM

well, it is a beam and a joint.


what the plumber did was, notched a bit out of the beam (oversized beam anyways, 12"X12" for a 30' span), and used a tilted flange. No elevation used in the end. The tilted flange is usable?


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