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Old 03-23-2012, 02:31 PM   #1
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


The other day I went out into the front yard & saw this.


& took a closer look at realized its the pipe right behind the spigot.
Its in the wall.


& I worry about everyday that its leaking into the wall what damage it might be causing?
I dug out the foam insulation & see its right at the out side edge before exiting the wall.
Hard spot to get to actually.

Anyways its copper pipe so I was thinking shut off the water main & cut the pipe & install a shut off valve just in case for the future & then remove the pipe all together & repair it & reinstall it or just cap it for now & cover up the hole?
I have another spigot coming out of that same wall about 3 feet away, I've under stood why I have both so close, but can see it might come in handy, so ....


I noticed that the pipes dont look braised together or welded, they look like someone used some sort of silverish glue to put the pipes together.
what might they have used?


Makes look like an even easier job to me.
Yet nothing ever turns out as easy as it looked for me.

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Old 03-23-2012, 02:38 PM   #2
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


Your silverish glue is solder.

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Old 03-23-2012, 02:39 PM   #3
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


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Your silverish glue is solder.
Thats pretty easy to do right?
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Old 03-23-2012, 02:58 PM   #4
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


Soldering is relatively easy, but it does take some practice. Simplest way to fix the problem is to remove the existing pipe and spigot, and solder in a new piece of pipe and a freeze proof spigot. You might want to buy a basic plumbing book, they will have lots of pictures and take you through the soldering process step by step. You are going to have to shut off the water flow to do this, so best to have ALL the pieces you need before you start, and do it on a day when the stores are open in case you forgot something.
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Old 03-23-2012, 03:02 PM   #5
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


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Soldering is relatively easy, but it does take some practice. Simplest way to fix the problem is to remove the existing pipe and spigot, and solder in a new piece of pipe and a freeze proof spigot. You might want to buy a basic plumbing book, they will have lots of pictures and take you through the soldering process step by step. You are going to have to shut off the water flow to do this, so best to have ALL the pieces you need before you start, and do it on a day when the stores are open in case you forgot something.
Yeah I'll get the book, good idea, & do i really need a freeze proof spigot?
I live in Los Angeles. & wonder if they even sell them in this part of the country?
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Old 03-23-2012, 03:12 PM   #6
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


The first thing that I would do is chase that pipe back to make sure that it is fact a water line, and not a condensate drain for an air conditioner, dehumidifier, or whatever. If it turns out to be a water line, I would cut it off inside the house, closer to the tee, cap the line there, and seal the hole in the foundation; if you want two hoses on that side of the house, you can use a splitter easier than monkeying with a second spiggot, particularly in a tight space like that and that close to the ground. If it turns out to be a condensate drain, I would still cut it off about where I described, so that it's easier to work with, and install a longer piece of copper, so that it extends at least an inchh or two outside of the foundation, solder an elbow on it, pointing down, and then caulk around the pipe.
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Old 03-23-2012, 03:15 PM   #7
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


Maybe not in LA, never freezes there I suppose... So you can buy an inexpensive spigot. By the way, it is often easier to solder on the spigot to the pipe first, then push the pipe through the hole in the siding, then make the solder connection on the inside. This avoids the problem of accidentally burning your house down by soldering immediately adjacent to the house siding. Course, this is not an issue if your house is sided in concrete or asbestos, but cedar tends to go up quickly.
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Old 03-23-2012, 04:03 PM   #8
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


Do not forget to spray area with bleach, to kill any mold that will grow around the moisture.
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Old 03-23-2012, 06:50 PM   #9
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


A little advice, use a 90 coming out of the wall raise it maybe a foot then use a drop ear threaded elbow secured to the wall. Screw in the new Bibb in the future you can replace the Bibb if needed without soldering. Also keeps the stress of the plumbing if someone yanks the hose.
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Old 03-23-2012, 07:31 PM   #10
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Telfair View Post
The other day I went out into the front yard & saw this.

Telfair,

Aside from the problem you asked about, the anti-siphon valves and PVC pipes to the right of your hose bib should be boxed and protected from sunlight. UV from sunlight will deteriorate the plastic.

HRG
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Old 03-24-2012, 07:21 AM   #11
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


I would do the repair as stated in post #7.
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Old 03-24-2012, 10:47 AM   #12
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


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I would do the repair as stated in post #7.
doing the spigot part outside is a no brainer, but when sliding the pipe back through the wall & into the main line, theres no way to avoid doing it there.
Maybe I'll have the wife hold something behind the flame just to be safe?
I'll buy a book tonight & start on this tomorrow.

Only bummer is it suppose to be raining pretty heavy tomorrow..
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Old 03-24-2012, 01:50 PM   #13
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


Shut off the water, cut the pipe about 6 or 8 " from the tee, pull out the entire pipe from the outside, buy a new spigot with hold downs/ears and a new piece of copper longer than the one you cut and a sweat coupling, solder the spigot onto the new copper you purchased, let it cool, push it through the hole from the outside as far as it will go side by side with the old pipe, install the coupling and mark the new pipe where it fits into the coupling, pull the new pipe partially out, clean all the ends and inside the coupling and flux, pull new pipe back into coupling, go outside and secure faucet to house, go back inside sweat the coupling to the new pipe and the old pipe, open water. Seems long when written long, About 15/20 minutes work.

Can't wait to hear the replies on this one.
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Old 03-24-2012, 02:27 PM   #14
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


Quote:
Originally Posted by COLDIRON View Post
Shut off the water, cut the pipe about 6 or 8 " from the tee, pull out the entire pipe from the outside, buy a new spigot with hold downs/ears and a new piece of copper longer than the one you cut and a sweat coupling, solder the spigot onto the new copper you purchased, let it cool, push it through the hole from the outside as far as it will go side by side with the old pipe, install the coupling and mark the new pipe where it fits into the coupling, pull the new pipe partially out, clean all the ends and inside the coupling and flux, pull new pipe back into coupling, go outside and secure faucet to house, go back inside sweat the coupling to the new pipe and the old pipe, open water. Seems long when written long, About 15/20 minutes work.

Can't wait to hear the replies on this one.
With a shark bit coupling I'd trim 3 minutes off your time
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Old 03-24-2012, 02:30 PM   #15
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Is this an easy copper pipe repair?


Telfair,

You've received a lot of good advice on how to repair your leak.

The leaking of the solder joint at the hose bib (if that's what's leaking) was probably caused by repeated sidewards tension applied to the hose bib when the water hose was pulled tight. After you repair the hose bib, maybe consider installing a strain relief for the water hose. An easy method for your configuration would be to use a galvanized screw-eye screwed into the wood right below the hose bib, about 2" above the ground.



Look for one with threads on the shaft right up or close to the screw eye. Be sure it's galvanized or stainless steel to prevent rust. Then just use some copper wire with the insulation still on it to secure the water hose to the screw-eye. This will provide strain relief for the hose and prevent the same type of leak from occurring again.

I've strain relief-ed two of the water hoses on our house and it makes a big difference, both physically and mentally when pulling on the hose.

HRG


Last edited by Homerepairguy; 03-24-2012 at 02:33 PM.
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